shizzzon

I built this pc last night and am still tweaking it now and probably the next couple days but WOW, this pc is killer for the money! I built this pc for my mom as she was using a single core P4 2.66 @533FSB with DDR2400 memory 768mb worth. Her pc never ran out of memory.. she was just complaining it wasnt fast enough. After cleanin out the registry, defragging, removing startup programs and disabling more services... it wasn't software related... she just needs a new system. I did my research into overclocking these new AMD Phenom II systems because i've been doin many OC Intels but no AMDs. Having plenty of OC knowledge from Intel, i still was lost on some newer terminology on the AMDs but after about 8hrs of messin around with the board... it is amazing! This build is UNDER $400! (you must have tower, all drives, monitor, etc...) PSU - Thermaltake 500w Mobo- ASUS M4A785-M (I've always been loyal to Asus and their boards are ++ when it comes to precise OC-ing) CPU - AMD Phenom II X2 550 Calisto Black Edition 3.1GHz RAM - 2x2GB Gskill DDR2-1066(the blue colored heat spreaders) Ironically this memory isn't suppose to be a great OC'er but there is a secret to this memory that i have experienced. When running this memory in the 900-1000mhz range rather than it's rated 1066, you get slightly higher read speeds and the write speeds almost DOUBLE! Plus because of the lower speed, the timings and voltage and also be tightened for an even faster benchmark! I haven't fully set the ram up yet. Cooling system- (you gonna love this!) - STOCK COOLER. No Case fans in use! I wanted this to be very comparable to anyone else wanting to design something like this for themself so they may be able to get similar expectations. For specific model numbers to parts, pm me. Using stock NB heatsink, stock cpu fan and thermal paste, idle temps at OC level is 23C! NB is 42C Do NOT go out online and research how to do this for this particular setup and then try and compare the settings i've used because you will get very conflicting answers with what i use. Most OC-ing guides will tell u to disable all fan and underclock settings.. I understand why but i also like to leave as many turned on as possible as a 24\7 overclock with max fan speeds isn't necessary. C1E is disabled on this board by default. I did leave Cool n Quiet enabled. ACC is NOT turned on! Doing so will void warranty and is NOT recommended anyway when using stock cooler. The speed increase without using ACC is PLENTY, trust me. OC settings as of right now- Reference clock - 230MHz CPU Multiplier - 15.5x (anything over ~3.65ghz required a Vcore of over 1.35v which is ridiculous for 24\7 use) speed at those settings is 3.565GHz HyperTransport Clock - 2070MHz (oh yea!) using a 9x Multiplier North Bridge Clock - 2300MHz The multiplier on this board is LOCKED at 10x so be careful when choosing your own reference clock is u don't like mine. Memory Bus - 460x2 = 920MHz (DDR2) Current VCore - 1.33v will probably lower it eventually. NB VDD - 1.15v will adjust if necessary. HT width and voltage has not been touched as i am not done tweaking the memory controller and northbridge yet. When running Prime- Cores do not exceed 41C on stock cooler, that's crazy! NB remains stable at 43C I will update with more if i get it faster with pics soon too. According to newest version of Everest Ultimate 5.3- This system is currently faster than a stock Phenom X4 9500(quad 2.2ghz) and an Intel Core 2 Xtreme X6800 (dual 2.93ghz). Remember, i paid less than $400 for this setup.. i'm gettin my moneys worth out of it for sure.

Yep, if you are correct when you say you never have it up at high volumes... then logically, the other possibility is mechanical failure. This is typically caused by setting subsonic filter extremely too low, box too large and sometimes tuned too low.

i speak behind competition. That's what they use in SQ battles just like a t-lab is what's used to measure pressure or.. "loud" so when it comes to personal preference, i bring nothing to the table.. just what i've been around and seen in comp. I'm more of an SPL and bassrace guy, sq in your guys eyes is not as important to me.

you should have built the plug out of wood.. been a lot cheaper unless u just tryin to get rid of plexi...

This is their company as they are working on something for me, have worked on a couple alts for phi on here and another buddy of mine that competes as well.... They have VERY LIMITED people working there with a crap ton of orders on a near daily basis. Think of everybody goin to Dominick Iraggi for new alts.. There isn't but just him and maybe one other person helpin him... it gets jammed up a lot of times. I talked to them today actually and from 12-22-09 - 1-1-10 they will not be building or servicing everyone's alt's because the main guy, Rob, won't be back til next Monday. If you know of anyone that has got service done within this time, they got lucky pretty much. And sadly to say, Rob is like 6 people in one, he's never there at the shop but somehow he gets these orders done... And when i mean not there... i mean out of the state a lot. So.. customer service is great in terms of warranty or service request work to be done but turn around time is terrible due to the overwhelming. They offered to build me a free alternator at one point just so i could see how good their alt's are... That's pretty decent!

i'm bout to go to sleep but i assumed that is external so- 47" internal wide 27" internal high 22" internal deep Ok, well i might tackle this tomorrow but i got some more box designs to take care of first....

that's suppose to mean just use baffle depth but uh.. how u get that? Either i'm lost or there is some serious misguided math goin on here... the baffle is double layered correct? If that's true the internal volume needs to be about 22cuft to have a "no length" when using 27x8" You are using 8x30"... there is no where in this thread that he mentioned that the dimensions posted were internal dimensions so i am subtracting 1.5" thick all the way around what he has posted. If this is incorrect, Julian, you need to clear this up as you will have 2 totally different answers.

there isn't enough information posted from the user for me to get exact numbers. I don't really see how you even got numbers without all the info i posted about assuming this and so on...

if serious about competing, try and get as much port area as possible! Recommended - 240sqin for average use. 350-500sqin for xtreme use. Do not use these numbers for daily use as stated before, strictly 1 note burps. It is up to the user to determine safe mechanical handling before unloading at port areas like this all at once.

misinformation here... Assuming displacement is 0.25 per sub=0.5cuft Using 1.5" thick walls all the way around the box(6 sides) Assuming the 6 1/2" is the port opening on the far right... Assuming the port depth goes back 15.5" internally leaving 6 1/2" opening in the back... Assuming the 18s will be flush mounted into the baffle.. Assuming added port wall is single layered(recommended) I get 13.15cuft Port area 175.5sqin 6.5" x 27" Port depth physical - 17" \ 15.5" internal. Port depth acoustical- 27.5" Tuning - 30.5hz For 38hz - Port depth physical - 7.5" \6" internal. Port depth acoustical - 10.75" Please note that ANY mass added to the inside of this box will throw off tuning. The more mass you take up, the higher the tuning will go so if you want 45s in the corners then gotta know beforehand. Also, when bracing this thing, do as MUCH as possible to the outside when designing for competition. Try to brace adjacent walls to each other if you can't brace your box to the car or build a steel frame or layered wood around it.

u can sound clean with a wall. Me and snoopdan's walls both sound clean on music so i don't know what the problem is there. For competition, keep the design the way it is--> for burps and bassrace. For Driveby, that is a toss up... It may be louder with a horizontal port but i have not and will probably never test that theory so i can't help there. For strict daily driving, full horizontal port will work best because the port will not be made to load all in one precise area in the car.

to the guy that said loud can be measured but sound quality can't... yes it can.That's what an RTA is for.

i hope u are not testing just by measuring resistance only...u NEED to measure it in a power application. Why? because wire and wire terminals. when heated, will raise resistance. since wire and wire terminals are not the exact same material and surface area, they will exhibit different resistances and this will probably only be seen and measured at very high loads such as 60A and higher.

Not all competitions are sanctioned guys I won my first competition and it wasn't a MECA or IASCA competition, just a local thing. I can usually tell what comp it is just on the date, that's how i knew it was MECA

curious too because according to the stats, nobody has posted a 142.5db the whole 2010 year.

define clean Who are you Bill Clinton? lol My definition is simple, no audible distortion while keeping the level high enough to hear what song I am listening to regardless of how loud the bass is. It takes lots of money to get a front stage to output in the same ratio as a stock setup(highs:lows) when using subs that can easily break 145db+ I personally do not like the ratio i guess because i've been around the competition scene for so long, i'm more of a bass guy. I still got to be able to hear what i'm listening to though or that's retarded, lol.

i did? I don't even remember, lol. But when u r ready, u can be sure i'll be around to help out. And to those reading this waiting for a reply back from me about boxes.. it's coming soon...

While JL focuses on quality primarily, the W7s could get plenty loud, they are some pretty efficient drivers just overpriced.

... and what happened to that setup?

Actually, people like me compete. For those who are running close to 10kw and more and are just doin that for daily driving only is crazy stupid because their hearing will be gone in no time. I can only keep my setup up for a few seconds before i have to turn it back down. People complain of the inability to inhale through their nose, no swallow capability, unable to maintain focus on a fixed point, pressure headaches, etc... I don't think that's good for daily driving so i don't play it at that level on music when i'm in the car.

i'm not sayin 2 12s in a wall can't easily break the 50s, but u need to do WAY louder than a 50 to start flexin the windshield on a newer car. I'd try to reach the mid 50s minimum below 40hz to try and get that sucker movin. I just don't see that happenin with 2 12s for daily driving.

unfortunately, you must have no experience with sound deadening. come back and read this again once u drop close to a $1,000 on sound deadening and then tell me how your ride sounds sealed up on the outside. When my windows are down, i am in 2nd place so far in my division for having the loudest vehicle that can play music for 30sec outside the vehicle. I'd say the deadening is working when i'm sealed up.

because we use sound deadening.. or at least i do... i don't know bout the other several thousand members on here. For those who have heard my setup in person, if i seal my car up.. i can blast it(with ear plugs in) and won't bother anybody around me.

if u want windshield flexing.. then ur goal has already failed. You will need a wall and more than 2 12s. What u need is a low tuning and TONS of pressure.

it's really simple... If u need 50hz, i got a link to JUST the 50hz tone. If you need tone(s), you need to download the ENTIRE compilation of sine wave parts, not just a single part. Extract the archive once all parts have been downloaded. Do not use WMP if it wont work, use something else. I have never had anyone complain about the capability of these tones or the way to burn them. Sorry to say, but it's user error.