shizzzon

i just checked out the requirements to play that game... Minimum requirements is a single core system around 2ghz and 512mb of ram... That's a joke nowadays because games today require a LOT more than that. IF he's gettin 145fps with that pc, then he definitely isn't running in High Definition... There's no way.

pc games that only support single core systems will perform awesome on chips like these that are OC'ed. Newer games that support dual core will still allow you to play with this system... but i imagine under intense video demands, if this board doesnt' support PCI-2x16, then i wouldnt dump any money into upgrading video.

if u are gettin it for no more than 150 then i'd say get it, otherwise turn away. The Foxconn boards that are capable of using that processor mostly support just Athlon FX chips and older. What you have is a Sempron Socket 939 chip. IT might\should be 64bit which is good but those boards max out around 4gb on the memory so it's kinda pointless for 64bit purposes. It depends on what you wanna do on the computer. If u plan on doin some new age gaming.. skip it. Those boards do not support newer technology and will limit you right off the start. If your goal is just to have a pc to use, then it's fine. Yes it can do gaming, just don't get too attached to it for gaming. GSkill memory is pretty damn good when OC'ed. That FSB speed appears to be OC'ed which is makin me wonder what the settings are. Get in the BIOS and see what the processor runs at temp-wise after 60 seconds. It should be idling kinda low like around 100F-115F. If it's idling lot higher than that, the cooling system needs maintenance or replacing. I would then put it under load (Prime95)once in windows for about 60 seconds with a temp monitor such as coretemp. If temps approach or exceed 67C, STOP the stress test and recheck OC settings which probably exist and cooling system. Also, check and see if the board can shut the system down if it overheats too and if it can have it do it right around 70C. This is all i can tell u without knowing what it's to be used for.

yep, because i'm not an engineer and i cant explain the details inside if asked as i have been before.

I do not like them and i could try and explain why but that would turn into a very long and drawn out debate that i dont feel like getting into. It's the same principle about how the Stetsoms are which i dont like either. For all the technical history and all that, i would get ahold of snoopdan as he knows more about the tech than i do. He could get more down in depth of why we don't like em. Basically, anybody can say what they want, even the owner of the company, but the point is these amps should not be used and\or expected to be used for longterm musical applications and capable of outputting the power that they are rated for. I've talked to 2 different electrical engineers about it as well back when SounDigital was all hype back then. You shouldnt try and get 8,000w out of a single run of cable. When things like this get brought up, there is always comments like- Well people don't listen to music that loud so you won't ever run our amps like that or... Music is dynamic so there's nothing to worry about... the fact is people DO listen to music that loud, lots of music people listen to have solid tones in them for several seconds or even constantly! For a single run of cable, voltage drop will occur with that much power on their high powered amps. Why do u think that a competitor that ran several of there 12k amps made a connection system to run 8 runs of power and 8 runs of ground PER amp! Now why would you need to modify the amp's inputs just to get steady stable voltage input? And that's just for burping, i'm not even on constant use. Just let an electrical engineer look at the specs and ask him if he would feel confortable trying to run that much power even for a few seconds with a single run of cable. Sure fusing will be there but expect some voltage drop issues to occur.

hey, before u upload any more pics, make em a little bigger, they all are as small as words,

ok, here is design i came up with. I haven't put the port length in there because i do nto know if u want to be able to manually tune this for competition or just have 2 preset ports made for this wall. Let me know so i can finish that part.

yea, i'd suggest more power too but it's his call. I like to do 16sqin of port per cube for daily but comp use i go lots bigger! I usually like to go for 24sqin per cube minimal and 32sqin per cube optimal. I'm workin on his wall right now actually. I might change it but as of right now, he might be gettin anywhere between 320-380sqin of port for comp use and ~200sqin for daily.

do NOT try and charge a dead battery with an alternator, that's never suggested. The easiest and cheapest way would be to take it to autozone and have them charge it for you for free. Continuous high current charging from any alternator can kill it. also, depending on where you live, if it is completely dead, do not charge it at or below freezing.

it says 7 business days not 7 days

it says up to 7 business days, not 7 days.

no it's in the doors. The wire that feeds in is ran along the sides of the wall completely covered in expanding foam. Once i tear the wall down, everything, and i mean everythign is coming out, even the headliner. The car will be rebuilt and reinforced for a new box design.

I have a wall... I can't run anymore wire from front to rear until i tear it down. I only have a single run of speaker wire on each side of the car.

well since i dont have one what happens.. I say it's ok because it won't thermally hurt when it's instantaneous.... Unless your point is to prove that wrong...

how am i suppose to do that? Like u say, rapid changes will be impossible to detect on an oscope.. However, speaking of music, because music has peaks, it's likely possible for equipment to clip without worry when it's just caused from peaks.

that's fine but in reality, you could even have it wired at 1 ohm and still control the amp and possibly preout voltage levels from the head unit to prevent overpowering a speaker. It's now how much you have but how you use it. I bet you could wire it to 4ohm and still kill it... it's all in your control in how you use your equipment.

someone made a topic about this a while back about clipping indicator accuracy and i went out to my car with an oscope and found on my audioque amps, the clip light would start to light up just before you could even visibly see the square wave forming on the scope. It wasn't until the clipping indicator was fully red til the square wave was finally visible on the scope.

Off my cell phone now, reading will be more legible, lol. While you are correct, that is the perfect way, and i can do this later on down the road, right now i cant. Besides, i'd rather do something i've never done before and just know how to do it. Just somethin for fun. After i tear my wall down later on this year.. then i can run all the active i want.

well i am gonna use a 4 ohm woofer and 8 ohm tweeter. i will run them active first so i can establish my xover points then go from there. if there is one that fits my needs then yes, i will buy one. if i havve to build one, i am still tryin to figue out how i am going to enclose it inside of something... you got any suggestions for that?

ok, basically i need loud and i want to be able to get the full use out of my 100.4 sundown bridged for doing it. I decided to go the Pro Audio route and find me some 6.5s that are capable of handling the 300wrms i want to throw at them. the lowest recommended response i've found for some high powered 6.5s go down to 110hz which is fine for me. This setup is for a certain division in spl competition where the music must be able to be heard while the bass is being mesured. I decided to use a single pair of 6.5s in the doors and 1" soft dome tweets. I haven't looked for tweets yet because i wanted to venture over to the crossover section and get some info first. So u can see i'm not lookin for harmony but when reading about how some caps can easily cause distortion, i'm not familiar with what i am being told so if this distortion is audible from using bad qualiy caps then that's a no-go because this front stage is also used for light musical playback as well. Light meaning low to moderate volume levels. My current setup is a set of ID 6.5s CTX65CS - CTX65CS - Image Dynamics 6.5" Component Speaker System While i do like the sound of this component set, i needed it to be louder as well and it just wasn't gonna happen. I like to know how to build these in general regardless as something else to do if i ever have\want to.

Anybody know how much weight a door on a 2door car can handle before it would start to stress or sag over time? I may plan on doin a lot of liquid deadening to it for competition and that alone will add some weight to it.... Then later on down the rode i may decide to remove the factory door panel and replace with a full custom mold with a couple speakers in it... If what i want to do in the long run should put too much weight on the door, what would i need and where should i look at online for it?

yes i was afraid of that. Well, what exactly would i need to upgrade for increased strength?

success

SUVs are large vehicles and it requires hardly anything to get them loud. IT's something you won't know til you compare it. Also, with a larger vehicle, you won't never have to worry about space being an issue with ideas you may ever have.

well, i havent updated this in a few days. I tried to get some other pc gurus to help me figure out why i was hitting a brick wall but nobody could figure it out so i have stopped OC'ing this build and finished it as follows on stock cooler- Cpu- dual 3.1 Stock - OC - dual 3.556GHz Ref clock- Stock - 200Mhz - OC - 254MHz HyperTransport clock- Stock - 2000MHz - OC - 2286MHz Northbridge clock - Stock- 2000MHz - OC - 2540MHz Mem Bus- SPD- DDR2 800MHz- OC - DDR2 1040MHz @5-5-5-15-2T @2.06v According to Everest Benchmarking, this oc setup is devastating compared to stock settings. Memory write speeds have increased by over 83% and read speeds have increased a little more than 10%. Most processing tests are a little slower compared to if i just made the processor strictly faster but that was not the goal. The function of this pc is not processor speed dependent. Therefore i left the multiplier down, ACC off and the vCore below 1.35v The function of this pc is just average internet browsing and research use. This is why the reference clock was bumped up until testing failure occured so i could get everything else on the board but the processor working much faster. It's just as an added benefit that the processor can handle an extra 900mhz combined on the stock cooler without worry. Under load, the cores under maximum Prime95 use do not exceed 42C which is awesome! Idle temps are 22C Super cool! I'm sure i can oc the hell out of the processor based on these current temps but not necessary. Average core temps during cpu use does not exceed 36C so i'd say this configuration is done. The only downfall i see with these settings is the system freezes every time during bootup for 5 sec then resumes normally. IT has reached some threshold but will not crash nor shows signs of failure in prime95 so nothing to worry about. The NB probably needs to have it's speed skewed slightly but this mobo doesn't have every setting a typical high end Asus board has, hehe. I would recommend this setup or any other dual core phenom II amd chip that is unlocked as they oc well while maintaining low temps, especially with stock cooler.