shizzzon

oh i know about it, i wasnt thinkin about 6db, it would be either 12 or 18db crossed and i wouldnt even cross that low. I was just wayin that's how they are rated so crossing a lot higher just gives a better feeling about they can still handle the power fine. Here is the link- Parts-Express.com:

the tweeters i was looking at are made by Morel. They are rated for 200wrms 8ohms and can be HP'ed as low as 1.6khz. That's plenty capability as the amp i have probably can only do, if that, 200w@8ohms.

i've been waitin patiently.... for months, lol for this build. It's one of the largest designs i've done for somebody and i want to see it come to life. 3d modeling pictures aren't as good as the real thing!

if you are asking wiring configs for 1 sub per amp, then dual 2s will be wired to 1 ohm which can read anywhere between - 0.65-0.9ohms

... check with dc power or DC Power or Rob, Dave or Kyle.. Depending on how you use your equipment will depend on how many batts you need. High output alternator may also not be necessary either in regards to what i just said. Tell us exactly how you plan on using this equipment so i can answer your question.

Shoot, hook me up with 55% off! We are not shipping these out. We are getting a very large group buy from many competitors locally then we gonna get some of our surburban competitors to drive several hundred miles out of state to go pick em all up and bring em back. Air Ride and surburban weight suspension for the win. Everybody that usually comes to our meetups is gettin em for under $100 a batt so some of these guys are loadin up! We got one guy gettin 14 of em.

my local autozone has 2 different load testers, might wanna try them

how dare you too, lol. My local team is supportin the hell out of deka right now because they are gettin them 55% off... I'm still stickin with xs though... ONLY because i'm bout to switch to 16v

Kinetik? How dare you not support our local subforumer XS Power

i bet thats what it is adrian d. i didnt like the sound of using it as a starting batt in the first place. any little problem is gonna make it that much harder to start.i dont think u can accurately test a batt for possible problems in that cold..cant u just charge it up at autozone then take it back and let it sit inyour house for a couple hrs then check voltage level.

Sorry guys about not respeonding to PMs lately but have been real busy on my other many hobbies and competin and tryin to organize everything here. I AM NOT DELETING anybody's messages, they are still there so just hang tight and i will get to all of them as soon as i can. My mind is so twisted and running with info that i don't want to design someone a box and mess up on all the numbers, you know? So, after i get "unbusy", lol, i'll be back to do a lot more designs.

i say cut in half, it's not THAT severe but it might... I dont see companies rate batteries below 0F so one can only speculate how much more you lose. In terms of capacity, yes, going below freezing does decrease battery capacity. Some charts i've seen before, going just above 100F increases battery rated specs by only 1-2%, not measurable nor noticeable unless you have 400 batteries in the back, lol. It's just simply, it's xtremely cold and that's what's happening, the capacity is less and the cranking amps are LOW.

the colder the environment is, the less capacity AND less cranking amps it can support. at 20 below, your aH rating is probably about cut in half! CCAs are rated at 0 and are usually about ~60-70% of the CA rating. So if a battery can discharge 1000A at 32F but only 600-700A at 0F look at how much current is being lost. That HC800 is not a large battery at all. I'm surprised at it's capability really because once it starts the car, alt's gotta charge that baby back up for a few minutes since a decent portion of it's capacity has been drained. coming from this weather, it's not surprising. Do NOT let it die though! You cannot charge a dead battery in that type of climate so if it's getting low and you are not allowing enough time for the alt to recharge it, get an AGM battery charger.

i would show my desktop but i cant, it's animated. It's underwater with fish swimming around.

you have to do more than just hit it. Press the button, then open up paint. Once open, hold control and press v or just go to edit and hit paste.

that's typical a sign the alt is pulling too much horsepower out of the vehicle and may also not be strong enough at idle. because of this, i'd also start testing your batts and see if they are staying charged.

wow, they really only 50A? My car only pulls 9.5A. That's with no heater and no lights on. I havent measured it with those on. You don't need a smaller pulley, lol. All that's gonna do is give you higher amperage at slightly lower rpms and with a stock alt, they do pretty good idle output compared to their max output. A smaller pulley will not make the alt produce an overall higher output, that's impossible. It's still a 50A alt. I'd install the amp but take it easy. Measure battery's voltage everyday for the next week couple hrs after the car has been off so the surface charge won't interfere with the reading. If the battery's voltage is reading 12.7 or lower then you need to be careful as the alt isn't keepin it fully charged. Also when driving below ~1,000rpm, don't be experimenting with current draw, keep it down at low speeds.

i'm gonna send u a design tomorrow, havent forgot.

listen to KU40, i've got a buddy locally who had the same issue, when he cranked it up, the sub would start moving and sound weird but then his sundown 3000d would go into protect after about 4 seconds of it doin that. he has a Pioneer head unit and if u do too, then u may fall into this category has Pioneer's are NOTORIOUS for what i'm about to say- The preouts on many pioneer units somehow screw up and lose their ground and need to be grounded physically... There is no external professional way of doin this so if u wanna solder a wire (that's if this is the problem) from the rca's outer shield to a physical ground, then do it. To find out if it is, take a wire, hold it to a known ground point in the car then touch the other end to the outer shell of the rca output on the head unit during high volume level.

i would vote sundown definitely! According to jake, the new Zs that he is workin on were just as loud as his "monster" sub was that's gonna be an insane subwoofer all the way up to 2,500w. Not sayin you are gonna be using these for competition, but from what i understand, the Z is a well rounded sub for almost any type of music that i would know. I like AQ's equipment, but these two subs do not compare. Honestly, nothing AQ has compares to the Z.

I've already built 2 systems with that chip so far so i've got some OC knowledge about that design. If you ever interested in really seein the performance increases your setup can do, let me know. You 're gonna need a Thermalright Ultra 120 xTreme Black Edition with 1 fan for it. DO NOT GET THE COPPER VERSION! (if u do, you must lay the pc down on it's side as it's too heavy) Anyways, that heatsink + fan holder and fan is gonna run bout $100 so if u wanna consider oc-in it, just let me know. You got the right type of board to do it. We can push your FSB up from that 1333 to over 1600 and that will allow your memory read\write speeds to sky rocket even when maintaining stock speeds. Also, if you haven't been tinkerin with your BIOS memory settings yet, your memory may only be runnin at 1333 as well since the SPD values will always default memory speeds to a slower speed than rated.(bastards, lol). I just wouldn't suggest OC'ing with stock fan, not a godo idea on Intel chips. On AMD you can cuz they overrate their speeds drastically.. therefore they run cooler at their "supposed" speeds. If you want, you can always bump your memory speed up to it's 1600mhz rated speed on stock equipment, i just wouldnt do anything else until the cooling system has been upgraded.

i dont know, i do both. Good thing there isn't OC competitions locally or it may be a challenge.

pshhh... I run all my computers vented, and yes they are louder that way, Yea, if that game can run with only 1gb fo memory, then that's not a true game in nowadays games. The new call of duty MW2 uses 2.2gb of memory just on typical idle use and over 3gb during gameplay. For someone with only 1gb, you'd be runnin that game in 100% swap file... then the game would run slllloooooooooowwwwwwwwwwwwww Here's a hint for gaming- Build it great, OC the hell out of it, FSB and memory speed increases 1st, then oc the hell out of the cores.... Lastly, get the biggest dual channel kit you can get (4gbx2) for example. the more sticks you use in an OC machine, the harder it is to OC the RAM and the voltage levels set in the BIOS must be dispersed to all dimms rather than just a pair and things start to get twitchy. If you need more than 8gb, get some FAST ass memory! The less you gotta OC when filling up the dimms the better on the stability. Lastly, get more memory than u need, then SHUT OFF Virtual Memory and have a field day.

um... the answers fell into the toilet?

from what i've discovered, the best cameras to use for recording are what some people call- Video Cameras. These devices primarily focus on the capability of recording video for well over a full hour as well as audio and spends less time focusing on taking pictures, Those waves you see in videos are people using their picture cameras and cell phones. These devices RARELY record at 29.97fps and therefore result in awkward playback. A true video camera or any device capable of recording at 29.97fps(or may be advertised as 30fps) is what you need.