shizzzon

everything back. If running less subs, i would say try side firing but u'd be lucky to have enough room to fit all 4 of them in there. A little tip i've learned from amateur street classes in competition- The less cone area you use, the louder you will be.. Hard to believe but very true. Only in the highest of amateur classes do experienced users may try 2 subs, but never anymore. Typically it's single sub all the way. For continuous use, i'd say 2 small drivers would be best.

they very legit and are authorized to sell quite a few brands as well.

if u have a meter u can test it but i doubt it would help unless sealed which i doubt u want to do anyway. The trunk allows the box to act somewhat like a bandpass design, the trunk is a loading area therefore it should typically be louder firing toward the rear. However... using the trunk as a loading area can only get you so loud before you must turn it around. This only happens when the box needs to be very large or are running more power than the space around the box can handle without inducing turbulence more and more. A very serious competitor should only see this restrictions.

the volume behind the box where the cargo enters the cabin area, you have plenty of space there so u are fine. What i WOULD do though is pull the box out and flip it over so the port is on the other side. You always want the port on the opposite side of the car that you are sitting if you are not competing. This allows the pressure to load better on the driver side. High pressure levels like to move to low pressure areas.

hey, u cant post a status update on the main forum page like that without showing us... WHY it's incredible, ... ... ... Or you usin headphones again?

from what we've debated here before in past threads, line drivers are pointless, probably another hype product to buy for no reason. Increasing input voltage will require less gain on the amp, less input voltage will require more gain on the amp. With line drivers being no good, i guess that's why 12v quarterbacks and short receivers never made it to car audio

don't you have the manual? Let me tell you how to do this- NOTE BEFORE CONTINUING- When strapping amps, they rely on each other. If in some scenario one amp goes into protect while the other one does not, it's possible to kill both amps. I've had my own experience in that and it isn't fun. This happened due to a shipping damage internally and there's no way to know if the output section is damaged until you strap them. Once it is strapped, if the output is XTREMELY low, shut it off immediately to prevent damage! Now, onto strapping- Take one amp, set it's switch to MASTER Take the other amp, set it's switch to SLAVE. Now, get your MASTER amp and follow- Run the rcas from head unit to this amp. Take a single rca line and run it from MASTER to SLAVE Now FOLLOW THIS VERY CAREFULLY- Take speaker wire and run it from BOTH negative terminals from the MASTER amp and connect them to the negative terminals on the SLAVE amp. So now u got all negative terminals on both amps connected to each other. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT- The MASTER amp is the Positive terminal amp. The SLAVE amp is the Negative terminal amp. Connect ALL positive leads to the positive terminals on the MASTER amp. Connect ALL negative leads to the positive terminals on the SLAVE amp. Please remember- When strapping amps that are individually 1 ohm stable, you can only connect a coil configuration of no less than 2 ohms nominal to the pair.

while the latter has been discussed, how about shedding some light on too much voltage. It's been know to fry the input section on amps(or at least that's the excuses i've heard) from too much voltage in on the signal. Some of these cheaper amps may have a max input level of only 4v, some even LESS! So what happens when a user hooks up one of these amps to an 8 or 9v preout and cranks his gain on the amp thinkin it's a volume knob? I'm pretty sure sustained use of that will kill the input section. Same scenario as people using 13v line drivers and crankin them things way up and the gain on the amps as well when there's no way it can handle that input. I'm sure it's somewhat hard to do, to kill an amp by doin that, just don't know how long it would take. Of course, hopefully someone should tell by ear that something doesnt sound right since the output sound would sound insanely horrible.

Go big or go home. Shouldnt be jammin at a red light in the first place.

I didn't.... the pulley on it was too large for my car, therefore the idle rating was 2x as high as real world testing... Also, the Bridge Rectifier inside mine wasn't efficient enough because it lost 54A on a stress test i did one time... Due to the Rectifier alone... well.. let's just say, you all will know in March. I hate low efficiency and i prefer to only use high efficiency with self-protect regulators. In a hobby like this, it's not worth the risk to lose an alt that can get abused.

lol, they don't know me by screenname but i am still loyal. No public leaks until release date...

^^^^ Who is it Herbert from Family guy? also OP, pm me for some DC power info as it can't be publicly posted yet.

This is interesting because my buddy Phi on here seen a Deka truck too in Louisville, KY. PS- Our group buy supplier is in Florida, Maybe that's why u see them in Florida cuz we about to order a LARGE bank load of them soon.

lol, it is awesome using monitors at that angle but i cant do that with mine. I use dual 22s from ASUS and i tend to watch HD movies on one while i work on the other so i gotta keep one at least in normal widescreen mode. Since i do lots of video editing on the side.. i'll never see that setup for myself but it is awesome for a web designer. The funny thing is, those who use multi monitors efficiently, once you get used to them, you can't do without them and tend to think of reasons why u may need another one... and another one.. and another one, lol.

there is no stock tweeter in your door? IF there isn't.. then you are going to be placing your tweeter completely behind your door panel... Might as well wear ear muffs when you turn on your stereo.... Seriously, you are going to have to modify your door panel if you want to mount your tweeter behind it if there is no stock location.

why not just get a router and route you out a baffle ring out of wood? You would get a drawing of your mounting holes that hold the stock speaker in there and draw that out on the wood then draw the cut out of the speaker itself in the center. The screw holes that would normally hold the stock speaker would now hold this baffle ring which if using 3\4" mdf will save you 3\4" of mounting depth. Then you just use some 3\4" screws and screw the new speaker into the mounting ring and TADA!

Thermalright TRUE Black 120 Rev.C CPU Cooler There is some things there that you do add to the list so it will be around $100 after everything. IF you do not have any, Artic Silver 5 paste is highly suggested for thermal compound. I can walk you through it if and when u decide to do it and see if u want too.

I work in a warehouse where i control the distribution of food and other products to 30 different stores within our region. I also am i forklift operator I also diagnose, repair and build computers I also diagnose and do work on video game systems. I also am a Beta Tester for a non-disclosed company. You guys already know i design boxes on the side as well. I also do lots of video and audio editing. Video mostly for lots of custom jobs.

ask powermaster for link(s) to tests done with multiple agm batts including comparisons with kinetik, xs power and more. To put it short, based upon tests and how kinetik bases their recommendations for which of their batts to use for a given power application... I come to the conclusion that Kinetik batts must have a higher internal resistance than xs. Why do i think that? Well, testing aside, just look at Kinetik specs vs xs power specs. The HC2400 is only rated for systems of 2,400w even though it has almost 130aH capacity, has a Max amp rating of 2600A and weighs less than 69lbs... The D3100 is rated for systems up to 5,000w, has 110aH(new version, old version had 117aH), has a max amp rating of 3,600A(new version has 5,000MA!!!) and weighs 77lbs. Interesting how Kinetik has higher ratings but weigh less.. Not all batts weigh exactly the same but it seems fishy to weigh less without promoting that in the powercell features meaning... it weighs less for a reason... It's also true that Kinetik's rest level is slightly lower than XS batts. My XS batts will rest at 13.0v when charged via alternator and 13.2v when charged via battery charger. The Kinetik's i've personally seen rest off alternator at 12.8-12.9v and 13.0v via battery charger. Lower rest levels, higher internal resistance(obvious when u see max amp comparison) and less weight = not the greatest when used for high current quick discharge for competition. Kinetik's batts appear to be good for logn term use and lack the best capability of quick discharging as well as other batts.... Such as XS Power and XStatic Battcaps. Having said Kinetik is probably better for long term use, i still prefer XS when the prices of like batts from these 2 companies are similar. I'll go with a higher rest level anyday. Now, if you were goin Deka... That's a whole other story. Deka is the way to go money-wise. You can get 2 9a31s for the price of one D3100. Yes, Deka's rest lower, approx 12.8-12.9v but 2 of their group 31s can do 2,000CAs which will completely kill one D3100 or HC2400 anyway.

1-23-10 - 124 Century 21 Drive Suite 7 Jacksonville, FL - Starts at noon 1-31-10 - Thunder Electronics, 8030 NW 103rd St Hialeah, FL - Starts at 11am

yes for 2 reaasons.1- amps current draw average is usually 40-60% of its fuse rating2- because of no. 1, an alt arpund 250a or more can handle that load.i run 2 3500s and a 100.4 which is 690a of fusei have a 250a alt and 177ah of xs battsi never have charging problems and batts always read 91% charge or higher

no, that's overkill. When you have a high output alt, that's overkill. I would recommend a single d3100 just for the 3500d but since the 100.4 is also in play, i'd look at getting about 150aH worth of batt from XS Power. If going with Kinetik, i'd look at gettin around 200aH.

Quicktifier There is one user on here that uses this and i have searched and found no comparison to the before and after results of this device installed on a vehicle. Basically, it's main purpose is to make your alternator more efficient under load or stress. When the alt is getting hot, this will help to prevent loss of output as much. Whereas i've also been trying to find direct results of alt failure, #1 being directed to heat which in turn #1 part to fail is the Bridge rectifier. So... this is where i'm at right now. Time + Current = heat you can run hundreds or even thousands of amps for a couple seconds off a stock alternator as long as it doesnt heat up so fast it dies which is unlikely. So... when using an alternator for long durations under a load, let's say not max output but 75% of it's rating for long periods of time... it's gonna continuously get hotter and hotter. This Quicktifier device is suppose to relieve the load off the internal bridge so it can do the majority of the work. It's cooled as well. So my question is this- by abusing an alternator in terms of making it work under heavy loads for long durations, does it sound like this Quicktifier system would relieve that stress by reducing heat buildup from within the alternator? The company says it should only be used on an alternator that is already of proper ampacity but if the current alternator isn't and the user knows it... would this device prolong or possibly prevent alt failure due to heat? I'm not tryin to say that someone is intentionally gonna use this in place of a higher output alternator when needed, but when using an alternator under HEAVY loads for no more than a minute or so and then manually charge a battery bank back up... wouldn't this device allow the alt to be more durable under possible stress from short term use? I know i said long term use before but am still curious about that usage as well. I've never seen anyone talk about this device before anywhere and want some people's opinions on it.

I've been doin some research about this so if i make a mistake, let me know. I got a chart from the12volt that lets me know what inductors and capacitors to use for a desired slope and roll off and diagrams for slope configurations. I also know what VDC one should shoot for based upon power used. Now, i would like to start studying the parts themselves. I'm starting with capacitors first. From what i'm reading, for high quality, low distortion use, to use caps that start with poly-... preferably polystyrene film caps. I would like to purchase all my parts from partsexpress.com and these are the ones they offer- Audiocap Theta Polypropylene Film Auricap Metallized Film Dayton Metallized Polypropylene Dayton Film and Foil Polypropylene Jantzen's Crosscap Which should i use for the lowest distortion possible. If there are any other features i need to look at besides low distortion, let me know! I already know about tolerance % ratings. Also, I read this from Richard Clark- He says regardless of what cap to use, he suggests using a bypass cap specifically made of polystyrene cap @ 0.01mf soldered with the tweeter crossover cap to lower distortion at it's greatest. Now, i have many questions about this.... Do you guys think it's a good idea when using one of the 5 caps above? When building a 12 or 18db slope, should i install a bypass cap to both tweet caps or just the first one? Clark also states to install a safety cap in place to protect the tweeter.... safety cap is calculated by halfing the crossover frequency of a 6db configuration and using that figure as the safety cap.. Now, how am i to build a 12 or 18db slope using a safety cap? He never really explained that. I think that's it for cap talk i can think of right now. After i get all this info down, i'll be lookin into inductors next.

seriously, i would do what Impious is saying. The way you are wanting us to answer is gonna cause you to possibly go overkill for no reason. It's not like if your stock electrical isn't strong enough, it's gonna fail in days. Good visual aid is if your lights are dimming on every bass note at the volume level u like to jam at, you need to upgrade or turn it down which i doubt that will happen. First thing to do is add an additional battery. this will react faster to current demands than an alt will. However, you must keep an eye on the charging conditions and periodically check battery levels to ensure they are staying charged. Without the use of a h.o. alt and a second battery in the mix, never let your lights dim! If lights start to dim with 2 batts and stock alt, then that's double work the alt may need to do in the near future to charge back up if it's consistent. Plenty of people run stock alts on systems higher than 10,000w but they do so in quick sessions(less than 1 minute) and use battery chargers afterwords or they run it without dropping voltage to their batts consistently which means they keep the average volume level low.