shizzzon

theres nothing wrong with the amps.DJ made it so easy to setup these amps that users complicate the setup. we hsve seen it over and over again.and trust me, if there were just a few with unknown problems, production would hslt.they are tested before being shipped overseas and again before shipping out to a vustomer.ssa forum hates cell phones...

yep here it is- times are in CST- http://www.mecacaraudio.com/flyers/1-31-10TN.pdf

ssa member shizzzon opens thread...pm me for my number when u ready to retune it and have a dmm handy as well.and a tape measure or the exact specs of ur box.

yea he's right, there's another brand that mocks this case that i've built two other systems out of, the company is called Azza. Those fans are low rpms but massive size fans and move just the right amount of air.

i am assuming the amp u have is a power acoustik 5500w amp or a board very similar. They are only capable of around 3,000w. Due to that, i'd say a single D2700 or a single D3100 would do fine.

i do agree with sundownz, my impression clearly isn't debated on quality.. that should be a given on which is of higher class,

it's amazing how you can tell who reps who. Many people must not know that.

the dual 2 ohm sub may read 1.4 ohms per coil on a dmm and that's normal. Wiring both subs in parallel will give you a 1 ohm nominal load which will read 0.7 ohms on a dmm.

ok so now u have an SUV. Bare minimum suggested NET volume for each 18 is 5cuft i believe. Running a volume below that would lack serious low end and would cause the tuning to peak way further down the frequency range from it's tuning frequency. Also, you must run a lot more power when using smaller than suggested volume or the output will lack compared to a properly built box. I do not suggest it. If i suggest anything, those 18s can be ran in larger boxes up to 10cuft NET. If you want it louder, i'd suggest either rebuilding a larger box for a single 18 or add more power to your existing box but do NOT do both. The larger the box, the less power it can handle mechanically so if you do build a larger box, test it's movement afterwords to make sure you wont kill it.

hehe, dont run 2 18s in a trunk, it just can't be done properly.

well u can or u can just drill a large enough hole to pas the wire through then silicone inside and out of that hole. I also sprayed foam around the area too but that may be overkill.

Um... you do know that this is a MECA show, right? You linked him to DbDrag's rules which are WAY different. Go to www.mecacaraudio.com and download the rule book.

yea, i missed paul at the last show in Murfreesboro. Yea just seen your 160 goal in your other thread, like to see your install as your install seems insanely efficient.

as long as both negative and positive coils on the sub are wired together, single run from + and - to the amp is all that is needed. If you want to make it less stressful splicing everything, u can do this- Take 2 single wires, one for positive and one for negative. Make them long enough just to reach each coil and strip the ends off of each of course too. Once you have done this, take a knife or some wire strippers and put it directly on the middle of each wire. Slit a gap in the cover and spread the cover back about 1\4-1\2" Now all you gotta do is run a wire from the amp to the slit section of the wire, no bounds of spliced wire required and no fraying! You can get some T connectors if you want and cut the wire off and crimp into these connectors.

in my personal opinion, i never like to drop below 12.5v even at idle! If i drop below that, either turn it down or get more battery. However, i would advise to never drop below 12v because it will put a strain on the alternator trying to keep everything charged.

do some research on those ap amps. They are being used everywhere, plenty of reviews about them. One of my local friends even has one and even i love it and don't own it, lol.

if interested, there is a decent sized competition in Lebanon, TN next sunday, 1-31-10. If u want to go, i'll be there. We all can help get louder than u will be without going. If you plan on competing in MECA, u can talk to the guys there about it. Bring about $65 with you if u plan on it, otherwise u need about $35.

no, sundown does around 1600w@1ohm and the ap does hair over 2000w @4ohm U can wire to both of those configurations. Do not choose based on power alone because u will not hear the difference.

well, power wise, they will put out about the same power. I'm just sayin that at 4 ohm, the audiopipe amp is gonna be less stressful on electrical system. It may only be 1-5% more efficient but every little bit helps.

yea but running the audiopipe @4ohm is gonna be pretty efficient. I've metered one of those amps before and was gettin just a little over 1240w @7.2ohms and a little over 1450w @6.3ohms. I'd love to have gotten the load down around 4 but didnt have time.

anybody know any 2 or 4 channel amps that are 18v capable?

so that means the charge from the alternator wasn't getting through, correct? It sounded like the battery was at fault. Do not let your alternator try and charge discharger batts if they are too low or you'll be buying a new alt soon.

well, sealing off when firing forward may not even be noticeably louder to the ear believe it or not. When firing forward, the upper notes like the high 40s to lower 60s are typically what sounds louder. I do not know if they actually are though... I know that when firing forward, it's not uncommon for that range to be the loudest. Speculation is hard to do in car audio when it comes to deciding what's louder without testing. Luckily for those who don't compete, the ear is the cheapest tool to use.

lol, if u are serious about competing then test it, otherwise you will never hear a difference.

first off, if u really do have an isolator back there, get rid of it. Isolators will drop voltage in the output right off the bat so that's part of the problem. If u need isolation, get a solenoid instead. Second, are all your batteries even fully charged cuz it doesnt sound like it. Put them on a load tester, reading their rest levels means nothing.