shizzzon

Audioque does not make SPL woofers.. Audioque woofers have high inductance, from what i've been told, which is why they rise so high. Their amps do more than rated power just like any other good amp out there will. I am starting to meter the AQ3500ds soon this coming week so let's see what they are capable of for an amp under $500.

I'm not gonna post a lot of info in here right now because i dont have my specs in front of me but between now and the next few days, i'll be testing their power capability to a degree as they are wired at 0.4ohms right now... 4 of them are and will be kept that way for a week or two. As of right now, leaving them wired like that and keeping the gain off(that's if you have an aftermarket gain controller), the amp's exhibit no heat buildup when not in use. It was left running like this for 45 minutes. Some people may find this odd that i would test an amp with no output power but to the contrary... some amps wired this low are real touchy about certain wired loads and will go into protect without power output at all. Also, some amps may start building up heat just from being wired that low and is not good for them either. This amp is not like those which is good to see. I do not recommend wiring below 0.65ohms at rest on any AQ amps as I've not yet tested their capability. I will be testing how durable they are on low voltage drops, but that will be a little while from now. The only output number i have for you guys is this- 5.1ohms - 957w. I do not know at what voltage the batts were but i know for a fact it was below 13v because the car was off. Some more info about the amp- All of it's vents are on the bottom so make sure you keep this area clear. You can stack these amps on top of each other using threaded rod and nuts as bases but just a little side note about doing such an install- Use a 17/64" bit to redrill the feet so the rod can slide through. You will need to position washers in place on the rod prior to permanently mounting amps on top of each other. The allen wrench screws that are stickign out of the sides of the amp interfere with the washers properly going down to the feet of the amp, the washers must be placed in place prior to mounting amps permenently. The amp comes with a remote GAIN controller with clipping LED, power\protect light. It has standard controls- Gain, SSF, LPF, Bass Boost, Master\Slave switch. The amp uses no internal fan and does well without one. Wired at 0.7ohms daily, the amps do not get hot enough to cause pain if you set your hand on it for long periods. The remote wire connection is with the speaker connections. This mono block amp has 2 sets of + and - terminals. The purpose is inside the amp, these connections are internally paralleled. This is still a mono channel amp. This feature is to allow you to either let the amp parallel connections for you so you do not have to do it at the sub(s) or used for less resistance connections when trying to use the most and largest wire possible. Knukonceptz Kolossus 8awg wire will fit into the speaker connection terminals on the amp. The remote wire also accepts up to 8awg for unknown reason so you do not need a very small wire for this connection. I could not even get 16awg to fit properly, has to use something bigger. These amps will stay alive all the way down to 9.5v and can accept voltage levels safely up to 18.5v. This amp is rated to do 3,500w @14.4v @1%THD\4,000w @16v @1%THD\5,100w @18.0v @1%THD If you want to drive these amps into major clipping, you will gain much more power as you'll see later on when i add more later. These amps are no longer made and can be found used for under $500 shipped.

yea u know why, lol, too many people tryin to talk to him and no time to work.

call them monday if they dont respond by then at 1-888-441-0144. Dave will pick up the phone. U can also go to Steve's site and see if Kyle will respond if u are super eager.

last i heard they thought she had scarlet fever. Have they come to a conclusion yet?

that's not how you measure wattage output from an amp! How do you know that the Dmm and the Ammeter both peaked at the same time? How? Prove it! You can't! Therefore the only way to do it with the equipment you have as best as possible is to eye both meters at the same time and take those numbers. You should never set peak hold to measure watts or impedance rise, lol, it won't work.

Get an SP alt from DC Power

yep, acoustical length is typically at it's highest when the port has a bend in it. because the internal height is 27.5" high, this is what happens- build port wall 20" long leaving it 7.5" from hitting the floor. So we have 20" + thickness of baffle(0.75") So now we are at 20.75" At the very end of the port inside, it must bend around the corner. the bend around the corner's length is equal to the port's width. So 20.75" + 7.5" = 28.25" Now you must account for 0.75" more for the thickness of the port wall itself. Now we are at 29" Because this port is sharing the walls of the enclosure, it is a slot port. Take half the width of the port and add it to 29" 29" + 3.75" = 32.75" If your port doesn't share the side wall of the box, then the acoustical length will not be that far off from the physical length. Let's say the physical port length was only 5" internally. That would be 5" + .75" for baffle thickness - 5.75" then you 'd take half the width which is 3.75" so this answer would be- physical length to cut - 5" acoustical length seen by box- 9.5" that's only 4.5" increase vs 12.75" for your current box drawing. That's why bends in a slot port have high acoustical lengths and the wider the port, the longer it is.

here is your figures- Using single sided 0.75" MDF all the way around, I get 8.25cuft GROSS. I estimate and subtract 0.65cuft for all 6 10s and get 7.6cuft GROSS. I then build port as follows- 12.5" depth-wise 7.5" width-wise 20" Deep Internal(leaving 7.5" of space before hitting floor keeping port width at 7.5") Physical port length- 20" internal. (this is what you make) Acoustical port length- 32.75" (this is what the box sees) tuning - 32hz. NET Volume - 6cuft even

hmm, you think maybe the electrical system is making it seem the pdx was louder?

i suggest setting crossover points AFTER setting gain or else the slopes more than likely will bleed into the note you are using to set gain with. also, if using a 0db test tone, you will want the clip led to be solid red when you are done tuning it because music isn't recorded that high. Once it goes solid red, just turn it up slightly. You may be adjusting it for different songs here and there as all music is not recorded at the same level... That's be too easy...

u ever get that amp setup?

guess i should leave a little earlier than normal if i run into a whiteout.

everything i mentioned is based upon stories that has happened in my area.... And to my buddy, lol, he's responsible for most of them, lmao. They work with a customer one on one. IF they feel that way about you then sure, they may let you make payments. They like to work with people as a person rather than a figure in the world to make money off of.

I dont know about 4,000 engine rpms, hehe. Most alts like to reach max output on engine between 1800-2600rpm. Anyone who makes an alt that doesn't peak on someone's vehicle til 4000rpm... or hell even at 3000rpm without the use of an underdrive pulley is 100% full of crap and should remove their company out of the alt business. DC Power's customer support is unlike any other. Who would publicly give out their personal cell phone number to the world to ensure that when a potential customer has any questions, they can call when they are not open? Who ships 2day air for free even if has to be paid twice for item mismatch? Who literally gives away free services and upgraded alts for free when 1 thing is missing\damaged? Who fabricates custom brackets specifically for your car even if the bracket on your car broke and was your fault? Who ships out replacement alts and lets you receive it WEEKS before sending back the wrong alt? Who lets you make steady payments on an alt if you dont have the money up front? Who talks the talks and walks the walk when proving idle output? Who is concerned about their company's impression to the world so much that they will do ANYTHING to make it right for a customer regardless what it costs? Who is this company? DC Power Engineering

what? I'm saying the remote knob that comes with these amps are GAIN controllers. You set the maximum gain on the amp itself. The remote gain is there so you can control how much voltage you wish to feed into the amp and maxing out the knob will only reach the level at which the gain on the amp is set at.

the reason why the clipping light flashes with music is because since music is dynamic, when it PEAKs in a split second, that's the clip flash. That's why it's normal when you are at the threshold of a clean signal to see it flashing like that. Solid red means the bass line(s) in play are fully clipped and that's not good. I mean, us, competitors have ran our equipment into full clipping for well over 45seconds straight without failure but as soon as they start heating up.. it's time to give them a break. When u say you turn the knob up when the bass is lacking... You do realize that knob is a Gain controller and not a bass boost, right?

I have ran Audioque for quite a few years before they went overseas but that doesn't mean that things started to fail either... The HDC3 line is stated to be more efficient than the USA version, the HD3 line. I never did a comparison so i don't know the difference. However, this is what i do know about the HDC3 line because I also used to run 2 of the Copper Coil 12s. Audioque subs, in general, are HEAVILY underrated just like many other speakers on the market. It all depends on how you set your gains and monitor your equipment. My impressions on the HDC3 sub- It doesn't take a lot of power to get the sub to produce a decent sound. At only 500w available, this sub still sounds fantastic. Well rounded response is expected. Unlike other subwoofers, due to the long excursion capabilities of the speaker, it is recommended to tune higher than other speakers. Why? because it's going to be hard to get a flat response from this speaker by tuning very low because if you attempt to, your mid 40hz+ range is going to roll off quite fast. Tuning to 38hz is the well rounded suggested frequency to get both your favorite low end with that chest pounding, hard to breathe, 40-50hz range. Anything tuned below 35hz is highly expected to not have a great effect in the mid 40hz range and higher. The HDC3 line is quite heavy for a 1000wrms rated speaker too. The 12, weighing in at 48.5lbs is definitely a monster! Most other subs in it's thermal rating category weigh approximately 15lbs lighter. the HDC3 line also has a GREAT cooling system! When I owned my pair of 12s, after several months of owning them, i took them to several non-sanctioned competitions and purposely put them through severe abuse and during my own testing as well. I ran them with an AQ2200d per subwoofer(2200w to each subwoofer). In one of my abusive tests, i set the gain control on both amps to full clipped signal and played a competition testing track that consisted of tones from 65 - 32hz that lasted for just over 3min straight! By the time the track was over... the entire car smelt like a house burned down! It was crazy aweful... BUT... subs that can take that kind of heat abuse for that long with double the power is just amazing. Here is a list of power recommendations used for the HDC3 line- ~1200w or less usually will keep the sub within it's xmax rating and will allow this sub to still sound great. Once you leave the linear excursion capabilties, the sounds changes drastically and sounds clipped. People must also note that when the sub breaks into the Xmech area that the pressure levels exhibited will be pretty high and most users aiming for such pressure levels do not care about how it sounds because the way how our ears perceive sound, depending on the pressure level, may appear to sound distorted when it's too hard to tell in actuality. ~1201-2,400w of power can be used on music with light to moderate clipping levels. At this power level, one isn't really concerned about how good of sound the sub can put out and is primarily looking to see how much power the sub can handle and this is it. If you run more power, you need to upgrade to the Aluminum coils which can take up to 4kw but that's not going to be in this review. For burps... It's hard to rate a sub for burps due to many variables but it has been known that the original HD3 line could handle 6kw with ease so the HDC3 Copper line should also be able to as well. When playing these subs on daily, as long as the gains are set right and are not purposely trying to kill it, lol, the subs will always stay cool which amazes me with how much power they can handle. When using these for burps, they STILL stay cool even when clipped! I have only been able to heat the subs up when bassracing for over 60seconds straight using an AQ2200d per sub. Box requirements for HDC3s are little bigger than some companies but do not let that discourage you from choosing them for slightly smaller enclosures. The 12s are suggested to be in 2.5cuft NET but that's not the only box they can work in. The box ratings AQ recommends is for the largest optimal box with decent power on hand. They suggest the following- 10" - 1.5cubes 12" - 2.5cubes 15" - 4.5cubes 18" - 6.0cubes Now, you can do the following- 10" - 1.0cubes 12" - 1.9cubes 15" - 3.5cubes 18" - 5.0cubes For the price to performance you get, it's just straight amazing at how loud these get yet how great they can sound with less power. These subs were never intended to be for audiophiles looking for that perfect sound. These subs were made just like the rest of their equipment is built for the crazy or just loud daily driver looking to pound the hell out of their car with massive bass. AQ offers recones and will either ship you the recone or will do it for you. They can also rebuild your subs to any other marketed size they have to offer. They have great customer service as well. Their subs also use direct connect speaker runs using 8awg wire so no speaker terminals! Some other companies have started doing this not too long ago. The purpose is lower resistance(no terminal) so possibly higher numbers in the lanes. AQ subs are also known for having high inductance too. You may have heard of some people talk about this. This means that the sub wil typically exhibit high impedance rise. High impedance rise is actually good rather than bad from my point of view. This means that it can create massive pressure levels and draw less power out of your electrical system at the same time. The other positive side is you can use this to your advantage and run amps far lower than their rated stable load to even get more power shot through these subwoofers. I would never recommend doing that for daily though. Overall, if you are looking for a subwoofer or subwoofers for ground pounding bass for your music, these are the subs! If you are looking for that perfect front stage\mids and bass to all fall in together... there are, of course, plenty of other options out there to choose from as the HDC3 line is not the intended use for such goal. Also, if you plan on competing and have the weight capacity for a large amount of cone area, these subs will not kill your bank account but will kill the meter with proper box designs.

Will do. DRESS WARM PEOPLE. Weather for Lebanon is calling for 17F for the low and 34F for the high! There is a nasty winter snow storm moving through the area starting tomorrow morning and lasting until Saturday evening. Competition usually last about 6-7hrs from the time judging starts so i really do mean dress warm, hehe. I will be wearing.... my dresser.

yea, i read that thread and i believe the batt was abused, possibly more than what is being told as well that contributed to it's death. Point being- if someone lets a 12v batt drop below 11v DAILY! deserves to have the batt get damaged. Mistreat products and they will mistreat you.

u can clearly see on just comparing specs alone that XS Power can deliver higher current for short bursts than Kinetik can. In the competition world, that's the primary thing to look for in a battery. The Kinetik's have longer reserve times like a UPS battery but the Kinetik's do have higher Max amps than a UPS batt, just falls short compared to Batcap or XS Power.

when will the patent(s) for this device be finalized so you can spill the beans on exactly how this device works as i still have many questions about how this device works.

i've never been a fan of Kinetik and no offense to kinetik fans based on the independent lab test that was done comparing the 16v kinetik vs xs power. Simply put, the kinetik 16v batt has a higher rated aH, weighs more and cost only $30 less than the xs power batt. The test concluded as follows- 500A load was placed on the batts. Kinetik lasted 21sec XS Power lasted 85sec!!!! 4x the time length = 4x the battery. I've always been an XS Power fan but when money gets tough... Deka is the fallback option,

ok, so it sounds like they may just suspend their business until they move... Still yet, why would any dealer stop dealing with a company based on a move? It doesnt matter if they moved from 300mi away to 1000mi away.. it still has to be delivered to the store??? I don't know.. unless they moving out of the country....

i would really like to know the truth instead of hear-say so i'll see what some others might know...