shizzzon

if i get my build done in time, i'll be goin to the Loudest in Louisville on 2-19-10. I'm gonna try and own my position in this city if i got time to do it. I got my baffle pieces cut, all 3 of them... but that's it. I'm gonna spend tomorrow cutting them in the shape they need to be to fit back in front of the wall... It will be thursday or friday when i actually route all sub cutouts since it won't be snowing anymore by then. I am kinda stuck right now with other things and hope i get done in time... I still need to order buss bars and some more power\ground cable.

this pic right here- The top part of the port is suppose to be double layered BUT... the inner layer of the port is suppose to have slits cut out so a plug can slide in there and rest inside of the slits.

holy jesus!, r u back jay?

the slits were recommended to allow a plug to easily slide into the top and rest there. IF you can use an alternate method in plugging it then that's fine.

lol, we have our own cheering section, hehe.

ok, it's $60 per person non member and $55 per person MECA member. We will have to pay for parking too and again on sunday if we leave saturday night.

Image Dynamics. Can't rememver model number but they are rated at 100wrms.

Yay! We the only 2 people, lol. Hey, i've never been before so i'm assuming u have and gots a couple questions... Do we still pay for parking even if we aren't using their lot outside? And where do we go to get into the building? It says it's in the West Hall but i've never competed there, just spectated so i'm lost.

well as u can see... i dont create a new build log for each setup i go through.. this is more like a car log, lol.

Jesus Christ! If you did i forgot... I've never seen 3\4" have problems so i dont think 1" would ever be necessary.

3\4" is all i use and recommend. If you need anything smaller, wooden dowels is fine. 1\4 and 1\2" rod tend to bow at long runs.. 3\4"... eh, not quite.

maybe that's why the europeans are crazy loud

u sure u arent crossing both terminals with each other when wiring in series? I hope this looks right when i type this... Do u have it wired like this> + - ../ + - (the dots mean nothing) that leaves one + on 1 side and a - only on the other.

nope still as strict as ever. Yep, the new tuning design for this wall is gonna be nice for me anyways. I won't post pics of it until after Casper but i can tell you the concept behind the idea. Our vehicles have a unique frequency they will peak at... People who know this will find it and go, BAM!, that's the note i will peak at forever and ever... Well, now let's look at it like this- Vehicles have cabin gain. This simply means putting a box in the car will be louder than in an open environment. A particular peak note in a car would, obviously, be using the most cabin gain to achieve such a peak. MECA allows peak notes between 20-100hz to be used. How many competitors have actually measured their cabin gain throughout this range? I don't know but i can assure you not many based on the installs i've seen, Let's say a car peaks at 45hz. what about the other notes that were retrieved when that user measured his cabin gain? Sure the other notes are lower in gain... but many people don't look at it from this perspective- Build a sealed box for a single subwoofer and place it in an open environment. Start playing 35hz then 36hz and so on til you reach 100hz. With every increase in frequency, the pressure should rise. Now, let's build 70 different ported boxes(not really, lol) tuned between 31-100hz. Every time you increase tuning in a ported box, the pressure will rise in an open environment as well, just like a sealed box but ported is many times more peaky than sealed. but... there is a catch... Every time you increase tuning, you also increase turbulence inside the port... This is why you don't just tune to peak at 100hz and be done with it! If your peak note in the car was 45hz, you tune to 40hz to peak at 45 using 150sqin of port for 2 subs, for example, tuning to 50hz will drop for 2 reasons... 1- cabin gain roll off 2- port not big enough! That's right! Port not big enough. Because higher tuning increases turbulence with the same port area, it's necessary to increase port area when higher tuning is achieved. This is why it's not easy to just go, i'm tuning to 90hz and i'll win... that's not the case. So, how big of a port area is needed for such high tuning? Well too many factors... It might be calculated but trial and error is the best way. If you have the room to use a massive port area, you can then attempt to use a new note to peak at. So why not just use the car's note with massive port area? Because the port length for such install would be ridiculous! So higher tuning is suggested, LOT higher. By having enough port area AND a helluva gain from the design itself, it can actually produce more pressure vs the car's peak note. Let's say the note you want to burp at is 85hz but it's 12db lower than your car's peak note. Simply put, if the port area is large enough for this note to keep turbulence REAL LOW, as long as you can achieve an increase over cabin gain of 12.1db or more, you can then "create" a new peak in your car and get louder on the meter. The major drawback to such build is port area... It's crucial that it's large enough. that's what makes it so hard to accomplish. That's how this new design is. It will take lots of testing to HOPEFULLY allow me to find a new note to use. A car's peak note can only get you so far if you got a small cabin like me. Sometimes you just gotta start back over and force a new note in to play.

As of right now, i am still on schedule for the Carl Casper show! Still crossing my fingers that i dont fall behind and miss it... I just busted the baffle out of the car today! That was fun. Sanded down all around it in preparation for the new baffle. I got a lot of vacuuming to do and cleanin up the subs but all i need to do now is go get me 1 sheet of mdf to rebuild this wall. I'll be dropping from 4 to 3 subs and some mighty fine tuning will be needed next week hopefully. I'm gonna be trying something new that has sparked some interest of mine for a while and never had the chance to test it... This new wall design will be tunable from 100hz all the way down to 35hz using 2x4s to change tuning... It's pretty neat. Anyways, I am also going to have to rip most of the false floor out of the hatch i made and rebuild it specifically for Carl Casper because they need to see all my wires so they know i'm not cheating. I HAVE to have this done by this coming weekend... I will have an "unknown" amount of power on tap.... I'm keeping this secret right now. I fixed my termlab mic the other day so i have something to record with so hopefully i get louder... Current score this season is 153.4db. I am hoping for a minimum of a 155 at Casper... if not more...

if you're not really gonna limit the type of vehicle, i'd do this- Decide on how much power you plan on running and how many alts u want. Find a vehicle that can accept such an overhaul of an install especially if it's 2 or more alts required. Scion tCs are easy to take apart and modify which is a plus for me since i own one. Actually the entire Scion line is like that. PS - Scion isn't effected by Toyota's recall either, hehe. CRXs are a big car for car audio but... are small too. extended cab trucks are also loud too. If you can handle the price and are a big player in the car audio field, a Suburban can be had but isn't cheap. If these aren't enough options, just start window shopping online. If you want a no-wall setup, start finding vehicles that have acoustical advantages inside. Like you said, hatchback's are a great example of such.

well since this is in the audio section, i'm assuming this is for audio purposes.... I've been told by 2 different world finalists that 4door suvs are louder than 2door. Dont' ask me why, that's just their experience. I've also been told that Explorers tend to be about the best suv to get when tryin to get loud.

if u have 2 amps that are not made to be strapped, you can purchase a Maxxlink and let it do it for you. Basically from what i've seen, the Maxxlink controls the signal processing to allow amps to be strapped just like any other strappable amp. The speaker wire combination remains the same, just the rcas are processed through the Maxxlink. I suggest reading the manual to the Maxxlink so you can understand. Read it again if u have to until u understand it. If you want to strap 2 amps that are dual channel Class D amps, the speaker wire configuration must be configured into a single output per amp before strapping... What does that mean? When strapping, you connect all - terminals from both amps together... Usually, the master amp handles the + connection and slave amp handles the - connection. So a dual channel class d amp, you need to bridge BOTH amps making them single output per amp. Then run single negative wire connection to\from both amps, leaving one + on each amp, one for + and the other(slave amp) for -. Just remember this- For every pair of amps that get strapped, the minimum recommended wire load doubles. So, for example- 1 ohm stable per amp = 2ohm strapped. 2 ohm stable per amp = 4ohm strapped. 4 ohm stable per amp = 8ohm strapped.

I dont do recones but i can say if you don't get the help you are looking for, contact Team PSI and see what they can do. That's all they do is recones and now are starting to manufacture 100% custom subs from scratch.

Well, since he went there i guess i gotta say this- You got some hairy legs, Lisa

they are rolled to prevent creases. Same principle about rolling maps.

that's the thing about thieves.... They know nothing about car audio. I've talked to buddies of mine before about stuff like this. You don't ever want a thief break into your car that has lots of knowledge of car audio... he'll steal what means or costs the most... Typical thief will steal electronics because it's common knowledge that's the most expensive. However, a smart owner will have those products insured. So what can hurt an owner due to vandalism or theft or what can criminals get the most money from or at least a guaranteed sale? I'm gonna speak from a thief standpoint so don't think i'm on their side, lol, because i've had my house and car broken into before and will kill easily if i had to were they in the house with me. There's a good and bad thing about lots of the following so lets go through them- Window tint- It may be good to have to prevent others from seeing inside.. but it also is telling others-"Hey, i need privacy because i have or do something in here that i dont want u to know about!" Also, when a window is busted with tint on it... it's not as loud and will not create attention either so it's possible for thieves to bust tinted windows in the daylight without drawing any attention at all. I suggest having the THICKEST bulletproof\breakproof laminate sheeting installed on glass that can still allow windows to roll down properly. The most expensive things in a vehicle for car audio are the follows- Battery(ies), Alternator, amp(s), and wire is starting to become $$$. Sometimes subs and head unit are expensive but not always. It's hard to steal an alt, lol, but batteries aren't if they are mobile... They need to be extra secured. Amps are easy to steal if not secured and would be a primary target. If i were a thief, i would never try to take a head unit due to the sophistication of how they are installed in different vehicles... Vandalism hurts worse than theft and lots of thieves will just damage product that cannot be stolen. Bulletproof\breakproof glass can help prevent interior vandalism. Wire would be great to steal.. but if it's ran under things and through things, that's not likely. Subs in a box better be bolted down to the car! Flush mount subs to box so a crowbar cannot be used to pry them out of the box in seconds. Smart thieves wont steal the box if it's more than 1 sub or notice it's a pretty good size box and know that the box is pretty damn heavy. So, make sure amps, batteries and sub box are extra secured to the vehicle so no quick access can remove them even in a destructive pattern. When using a car alarm, make sure you have more than 1 external siren AND have at least 1 external siren installed INSIDE the vehicle. If they have the time to break through breakproof glass, the piercing of a siren exceeding 130db will make them cringe... i guarantee it. There's no way to prevent external vandalism but there are ways to prevent interior theft within a certain timeframe.

Nope, Hyperdynamics mic. www.makeitlouder.com go to ebay to purchase it as it's usually lot more at their website. You can find it for less than $100 on ebay. Also, u will need a meter that can read millivolts and a computer and that's it.

You don't need to build subwoofers for a living to understand that they recommend you tune high because the driver's Fs is ri-pucking-diculously high. I have some 7" mids here that have an Fs only 2hz higher than the Fs of the 12" HDC3. You're 7" mids are midbass drivers. (and a Fs of 43hz on a 12" inch driver isn't super high, and the 10 inch has a Fs of 41hz.) And remember the T/S specs aren't averaged between a few woofers, they took 1 woofer and took the T/S parameters without a break-in period.(Break in period lowers Fs quite a bit in a few cases.) AQ drivers are designed to work the best with higher tuned boxes which don't need as much space. Because they are tuned higher then normal they need to have a suspension that is harder and not a soft suspension. That how they get a high Fs, low moving mass and strong suspension that controls the cone if it goes below tuning. You can tune a woofer below Fs without a lot of problems, but if you don't stick with optimal enclosure volume and tuning they are going to sound like shit. Because the manufacture gives quite a lot of optoins you can build it how you like it. BTW, they have a SQ competitor: Competitor Highlight – Sound Quality Competitor LewisBrood Name: Lewis Brood, Competitor 2005 Kia Sorento lx SUBs: AQHDC312 x 2 woofers- 2-aq hdc3 ,12 inch duel 2ohm wiring by – tsunami and knukonceptz 2007 team northeast competitor of the year 2007 team northeast 3rd place woofercooker 2 2007 iasca Finals, stock 2 champ 2007 iasca Finals, 3rd place rookie- sound quality 2008 team northeast 3rd place woofercooker 1 pro 151 db is my best record so far to date with a lot more to come !!!!!! Lewis has never placed less than 3rd in over 20 sound quality competitions! Yep, they are taken before the sub is broken in. The new Sundown Zv2 has a FS of 42hz.. I guess this sub vs the original one of an FS of 28hz is gonna sound like total crap.... I highly doubt that. Back in 2005, i had a 15" HD3 in an 8cuft box tuned to 29hz. I dont recommend doin that because anything in the mid 40s and up rolled off too quick. Anyways, the sub could drop down to about 19hz before it would start bottoming out and it sounded awesome on the lows.

aq recommends the following on average- 1.5cuft per 10 2.0-2.5cuft per 12 4.0cuft per 15 6.0cuft per 18 All tuned around 38hz. I've given my opinion about them in the review section. These subs can take massive amounts of power and people who like that really are not looking for the best of sounds because the typical sound pressure levels many are aiming towards these days are the high 140s and when getting that high, your ears have a hard time distinguishing difference in install comparison and just perceive it as loud and louder...