shizzzon

guessing here, but the case may not be able to absorb as much heat as it could lying down. Even if thats true, unless u runnin the amp for hours and hours, i still dont see a problem.

yea for burps. when we use them for daily, i recommend 0.6-1.0 cuft per sub MAX and u still might have to raise the subsonic above tuning depending on how its tuned

Here is the American Bass- here is the AQ- The AQ clearly has more transformers inside and lot more caps. Here is the Phoenix Gold version - This amp is just plain terrible in comparison with the rest of the amps and you see that in their power ratings too... Hertz has their own version too but does not live up to others in terms of power\ground inputs.. They claim massive output levels which may be true but apparently not suited for constant use. They only have 2 inputs rather than 3. Their specs are slightly lower than AQs being a max rated output of just under 16,000w. Here is the Ground Zero GZPA 1.10000SPL amp rated to do 11000w @1ohm... still not a clear competitor with AQ- I dont have pics of the other ones.. they are still being developed.

actually, the only way to keep voltage up above battery's rest voltage is to never exceed the alternator's maximum output at any rpm! Once you do, the voltage will be at it's best what the car would be when off for that particular time. Voltage regulator isn't magical.

that should be fine. xs power batts have very low internal resistance so anything the alt cant handle, the batt(s) will take care of it. Put it this way- I only use a single D3100 and a single D5100 to run 4 3500Ds @0.4ohms for burps. The batts were resting at 13.2v. I did 4 quick 1 sec burps of current draw at ~580A then a 1.25sec burp of just over 1100A and STOCK alternator. Batt's rest voltage remained at 12.8v after that. They lost maybe 12% capacity. XS Power batts have crazy high current dispersion.

i'm not trying to bash you or anyone else personally but seriously, all their other amps do what they say. When you read people saying that their other amps do more than rated.. well their amps DO but at higher THD levels. All their amps are rated, including this one, for what they have been tested to do. Look at my 3500d that they dont make anymore. It's rated at 5,000w @18v at 1%THD or 6500w @18v at 10%THD This new amp is rated at 0.2% THD. AQ has never rated that low before and evidently must have a big jump in power with more distortion involved. I'm not biased toward AQ just because i run their amps. I would test any amp with the right amount of tools on hand regardless of the amp. I have not yet been able to test mine the way i want but i'm eagerly waiting too. Previous similar testing i've done with the 3500d and the 2200d show they do minimum rated power ~ 4ohm. It's gonna be hard for someone to test this amp physically due to the cost of it but having experience with 2 of their amps, i have no doubts and AQ's business practices are not to doubt for their amp line. There is a pure reason why I say "cheater amp". You're not gonna believe the crazy wattage difference because that's the purpose! That's what a cheater amp is suppose to be. This is why, again, they rated the amp at crazy low THD level because USACI bases their classes by wattage ratings. why AQ chose to focus on USACI has many curious on that move but believers or non believers... I'm sure test results from competitors will be out sometime in April if not sooner.

oh i'm not discouraging you, i just want a test, the test, whatever test is done to be done right with proof, informative to everyone including me since i've never seen a test of their batts.

well, you better get some proof from them. Go tell them that u have a batt of over 2000 cranking amps.. they're gonna stutter\stumble on that note and request to see this battery. They should know how to test it, but just so u know, CAs are a full 30sec load so dont let them test it for just a few seconds. I dont know what they have but dont let them use a battery tester like autozone has.. a true load tester.

u have access to a load tester to properly test CAs? This i'd like to see

looks like i pissed someone off... get neg rep for opening up about some batteries... Oh well, people will realize eventually that companies who refuse to prove their specs tend to not live up to them as proven in the past with Kinetik.

thats because they publicly rate them at very low thd levelsto keep them rated as cheater amp

some more unknown information... The baffle was cut today completely and would like to add a comment about something useful for those who route their speaker cut outs. I've been using a straight bit for years, carbide straight bit, and while they last for quite a while, they always tend to have resistance and takes forever to cut... well not anymore. Phi on here recommended i try a Carbide Spiral Upcut bit. So i spent the extra $6 for one($20 per bit) and WOW!! What a difference. No resistance feeling at all when cutting. I cut my cut outs in 2 passes for every 3/4" I can cut 14" holes in 2 passes in 15 seconds! VERY FAST! I highly recommend these bits. We are gonna test just standard Spiral Upcut steel bits on MDF and see if the bit itself will prevent the material from burning like steel so easily does with MDF. I will finish modding the baffle tomorrow night then glue n paint it. Saturday is the big day for me... I have to mod the entire wall to get the baffle to fit back into place and touch up some abuse areas in my wall that it has been taking for a while. Hopefully.. i still have time to find out what it does bare with no tuning.

when comparing slots to aeros, each have their own place per design. When designing boxes, I always venture into using a slot port as the primary choice because it's cheaper, adds bracing to the box and if the design works, will actually give off more effective port area than an aero port can in terms of internal volume displacement. One main difference between slot and aeros is that acoustical length of an aero is LOT less than a slot port. If a box is 20" deep, slot port is 5" wide and goes back 15", there's a lot of acoustical length there as the port virtually bends around the corner... With an aero, there is no such. Now, aeros have more effective port area therefore can use shorter port depths but is also depends if u got room for multiple flared ports on the box. When u start needing 200sqin or more... aeros are gonna take up way too much baffle room just to install them.

That cant be cranking amps.... I know it says so on their company site but that's false advertising... it has to be. CA means to output a particular current rating for 30 seconds straight down to 9.6 or 10.6v, cant remember off hand, at 32F. There's no way there biggest battery, which is 120aH and ...2600CAs can do that at ~80lbs and only $300... The XS D3100 is the largest battery they make and it's got 1,360CAs and 5000MAs. What YOU are reading is the MA reading of the battery, they have it wrong or are incorrectly measuring CA specs. I can tell you that while any 12v batt can be used as a starting batt, only some excel at it. Shuriken and Kinetik have outstanding reserve capability but not so hot quick disbursement of power compared to other companies. Xstatic Batcap and XS Power have xtremely high current discharge capabilities and are superior to starting vehicles. Xstatic batcaps may be better at starting a vehicle, but XS Power batts have longer, LOT LONGER reserve capacity than Batcaps do as Batcaps are primarily focused on quick discharge only and that's not only what u need in a starting battery... For daily use and as a starting battery, XS Power all the way, or a strong enough Shuriken\Kinetik is fine too. They business practices should be slaughtered for stating that on their site. typically, the higher the CA or MA, the more a battery cost. I can get 100aH batts for under $100 but they are terrible for really high MAs... You get another 100aH batt with very high MA rating, the price sky-rockets.

the competitors even is on saturday and sunday. I might be at the show friday to prove my standings as the loudest in my city. The cost is unknown to me for that.

yep, it's coming in raw

oh and for those wondering.... this amp IS more powerful than- Phoenix Gold The ONE SPL Dynamics version AB AB1100.1 Cactus Sounds K9 Welcome to the big power... Coming in late March

some more info has been released. The amp will go for $1999 shipped. The amp is rated with the following known so far- On very clean output levels- 1500w @4ohm 3000w @2ohm 6000w @1ohm' These ratings were done on a solid 12v load. The 14.4v loads were tested and with slight increase in THD will give a tremendous boost in power! @1ohm on 14.4v, expect a MINIMUM of 12,000w. Since AQ rated this amp for USACI (they go by amp ratings), the amp's other output levels will not be publicly posted to defeat the purpose. It is expected to do 20,000w @18v though. Expected full potential on a 14.4v system is somewhere between 13-16,000w on high THD.

with a box that big, mass loading alone is not good enough as that's what i gather you are about to have done only. If this is for daily use, brace opposite pieces to each other on all sides and join in the center.

did somebody mention backup sub? While i may have extra subs lying around... i never consider them a backup in terms of a quick replacement in competition even if it's the same model and size. When i test prior to going to competition, everything is set the way it needs to be as if i were competing on the spot. I never worry bout these subs getting damaged, they are well built! If i ever needed to run another pass because someone is beating me by a hair... i have some settings i can retune to possibly get louder... I never tend to use it first because i never have found it necessary. I have got the baffle pieces cut... The baffle pieces have now been trimmed and do fit back in the wall so that's good. The baffle pieces are now all marked and ready to be routered so no more measuring... Once they are cut, they must be glued n painted. I will have to modify some of my allthread runs for some future mods to the wall before i reinstall this new baffle. I am about to order me some $60 worth of pure aluminum stock so i can make my own massive fuse holder. It should be rated for roughly ~1500A continuous so that's plenty of heat dissipation capability. This weekend... i will find out what the wall is tuned to bare with no port mods. I will work off of this information first and for kicks... i will post a score at the head when i do. hopefully i'll have a stand on hand so it's official... Otherwise.. i'll cheat and put it in the kick, lol. Either way.. i'm gonna be attempting to break a 160 in the kick soon... i'm not saying when either.

yes but i'm pretty sure u will also need to block the top part inside the box too...

flush with the baffle has nothing to do with it. the inner wall on the top part of the port should have never been 1 piece per side. It should have been cut in pieces and only about 50% of those pieces glued on. That gives the port wall gaps... The port plug was suppose to get those pieces you didn't attach to the port wall so the port plug could literally slide into the top port section filling the gaps that were left out... So.. since that isn't done u can think up somethin, just don't shrink the port area.

no, not screw, cut the existing inner top port . thats the one that suppose to have the slits alreeady cut in it

ah dont worry, its nothin fancy, just louder hopefully

that means the inner layer in the port that's in there now needs those slits.