shizzzon

well, got some good news so far! We didnt get hit with 8 inches as predicted... It is to snow tomorrow but not that much... ALL MAIN ROADS including expressway is 100% okay! It looks as if it just rained, no sludge or even ice... but there will be ice during the night when traffic slows down. The snow storm that's coming Saturday will be in the low 40s so the chance of it sticking is minimal.

i personally only see it useful for competition purposes. Just get u a dmm and make sure all amps are set the same.

Casper is getting closer. For those that are coming to Casper and do not live around here.. or those that do and don't watch the weather.. Listen Up! Those of you traveling into Louisville, KY this coming Saturday morning will need to do so bout 30 minutes earlier than planned. We are about to be hit with up to 9 inches of snow by Tuesday morning and the temperatures are going to remain below freezing from right now til Friday morning. Friday will be the only day it's gonna be above freezing then come Saturday we are getting hit with ANOTHER big snow storm that will continue through Sunday. Total accumulation is unknown...

All i gotta do now is just screw the subs in and wire em up! I'll be doin that tomorrow evening. I won't be postin pics til after Casper for comp reasons.

lol, wonder how many weeks it's gonna take to get some, haha. Tell him he better go buy em locally.

that amp is fine for power. we got somebody local running that AP 1500w amp and it does well.

:) 95% complete... all i gotta do pretty much now is wait for everything to dry and install a few more brackets and done with it! I'll be ripping the trunk apart soon for casper but after i do some testing to it tomorrow so i know where i'm peaking at.

look up somebody by the screenname of "pimpin at my house" He is a northeast dealer and user of their products. I havent seen him active here in forever but goes by the same name on other forums.

it is 1 ohm stable. the ap30001d is 2 of the 1500s in one case so that's why the 3000 is @2ohm but this 1500 IS at 1ohm.

he means if u have to ask, it's best not to try it.

were u not there at this show because i never remember seeing your car? Oh and nice score man!

On those aluminum bars- if it's 3" wide or more, those bars are capable of at least 1150A continuous using typical aluminum alloy. If it's 2" wide, expect rating to be somewhere in the lower 800A continuous.

i would ONLY suggest using buss bars IF you already have them... If you do not, just use wire! It's a LOT cheaper, trust me! I just spent over $100 on 3ft of copper bar that's rated @1,750A continuous. Plus u have to use anti-oxidant grease on all connections, that's more money... Unless you are trying to run more than 19 connections, he doesnt need buss bars. those D3100s can accept up to 6 ring terminals per post.

Well... after working all day.... the new baffle IS IN!! I still gotta do a lot more bracing to it tomorrow and some more work inside the wall but the hard part is finally done! I am hoping that it should be about 3-5hrs worth of work tomorrow.. then the subs should be put in and see what the wall is tuned to as is.

sorry man, you're right, i subtracted only 4 instead of 14 when i was thinking of batts on the side... oops! how bout this!! Put the batts in front of the box like planned... but side to side, width-wise. You will only be able to fit 3 side by side... so he will have to build a rigid battery rack to hold the other 3 on top of the bottom 3. this will still keep him below the 18" mark as well! The width of the batts would be the depth and that displaces 7" so lets say 8" so that would be 58"x43.25"x18". Using DOUBLE layered wood 3\4" thick for both sides, front, rear and top(bottom single layer), i come up with- 20.17cuft GROSS There's your extra 3cuft.

just do the math man, trust me, it gains volume. Subtract 14" from the width and max the depth out, WALA! If u dont know how to gain match their amps, here's an easy way- Hookup ALL 3 remote gain controllers and keep them plugged in for obvious reasons below- turn the gains on all 3 amps up ALL THE WAY. Keep the gain on the remote controls on all 3 amps all the way DOWN. Now in sync, start by slowly turning up all 3 amp's remote gain knobs on a test tone until they all clip at the same time. that's an easy way for you to gain match them close enough.

well, i'll tell ya one new thing about the build that has nothing to do with the audio. I am having buss bars machined for me. I just gotta cut them to length and drill all my holes for em. These bus bars are gonna be used for my batts and for fuse holders. They are rated at 1,750A continuous so that should be plenty,

i recommend 3 of the smaller ones. easier to sell Anyways, it's not normal to peak that low, something's wrong there. Most suvs peak in the high 40s. Get a sealed box in there and find out what his peak is. It'd be better to find his cabin gain throughout the entire legal metered frequency range because the car's peak isn't the only frequency u can get loud with.

u would want at least 18cuft net to work well.. otherwise, u gonna want to run 12kw or more because the space u have to work in isn't all that big. Besides.. why tune so low? this is for competition, not daily.

well.. from what i've seen on this forum, the IA Warden can handle 7,000w for a good minute that i know of. The Sundown Nightshades are pretty efficient and can handle 3kw fine. Hell, the SA-12s can handle 3,500w for a pair on music guaranteed.. i still got the video of that night, lol.

hmm... subs up port back always tends to be the typical best for suvs. You can run as little as a few inches from the door, doesnt have to be a foot or more back. Also, if u still prefer not to do that, when porting up, make sure it's all the way at the back of the box and pretty f'in wide! You may also wanna attach some pvc to it so u can flare the port. I just did the math on the box size.. it's not large enough for 3 18s to be efficient for competition. However... if u line all the batts down the side, depth-wise, you will gain almost 3 full cuft! I recommend doin that then staggering the subs up top so they fit.

if u plan on running close to 10kw, then i'd prefer you to use at least 350sqin, preferable 400-450sqin of port area.

this is hilarious, lol. I should have bass tomorrow... Gotta take a break right now... I've noticed some problems with my wall and gotta new some repairs tonight before putting the new baffle in but besides that, no biggie. Just got back from Lowes from gettin everything i need to fix the problems and have already moved a lot of things to accommodate the new baffle so i'm pretty close to rewiring the subs back up.

I will give you til Sunday afternoon to get this thing playin! You know i was thinkin.. i got over a month of vacation time. If you can pick a good time for me to come up there, i will to hang out and check out the design. It'll prob be sometime around summer though cuz there's lots of comps around here between now and june.

reason why people go overkill on batts is because they got really good deals on them or they use them for bassrace\driveby. 3 vs 1 batt.. eh... both have their cons and pros, i'd stick with 1 large one. I can't tell u what your voltage drop would be because XS would literally have to provide a chart on how their batts react to loads over a time period to attempt to calculate voltage drop. u shouldnt really worry about that anyways. Xs Power batts are great and will last and perform for years as long as u take care of them too.