shizzzon

i didnt take any.. i was too busy watchin movies in my car, lol. I'll get pics of my build in a week or two... i'm still changin the port around.

ok, here is the first of some bars. these bars are for 2 Deka 9a31s. the batteries are located on each side of the vehicle so no buss bars could be used. he needed extra connections capable to each battery post, power and ground. None of these holes are tapped. It's not necessary to tap them but if you need them tapped, i can tap them. The bottom hole on each bar is for the battery's post terminal. the other 4 holes are for the wire runs. These bars are rated to accept a continuous load of 700A. That should be enough for about 20,000w worth of amps for daily use on average!(average draw taken assumes 33-50% continuous draw of maximum current rating). He has less than 4,000w in the vehicle so this is actually way overkill but he does compete. These particular bars go for $40 per battery shipped (2 flats for power and ground) or $65 for 2 batteries shipped via USPS. Pricing fluctuates with ampacity requirement and it's gets cheaper the more you need which is always good.

it's not noticeable for daily use. If for competition use, then it's likely. Knukonceptz kolossus cable is like 2/0. Stinger makes 3/0 but is very expensive. you can go to weldingsupply.com to get up to 4/0 but you must remember this- welding cable may oxidize because it isn't tinned and will take several years to occur. also, the ampacity chart on their site is NOT for electrical use. It's for arc welding so don't assume their wire is the highest rated wire in the world.

god i hope it isnt anybody i know personally.

YAY!!! Have u tested it before and after the port plug? Even with the plug out, the tuning is still low enough to sound good on music.. it's just louder to the ear and the mic. With the port plug in.. your vehicle will just fall apart, lol.

well, i'm not doing wire inserts on these, these are purely ring terminal only. I personally do not care for wire inserts due to fraying over time. Now, i DO understand what you are saying about the D design. that's actually what i wanted to go with... However, i still am leaving that option open in case i can get that made... All other marketed wire gauge reducers use the square 45 method. I was a bit leary of it too but apparently they work fine. If i can retain the D look, i'll be sure to post it here. I wont discuss pricing until i know they are made properly.

lol, phi's not getting any of this stuff.. only i am for testing for the time being. he's getting other stuff.

these are 99.94% solid copper

ok, here's the pic. If there is anything i can do to make it better let me know! The hole on the side is for the bolt that will hold the ring terminals in place. 1 ring terminal may be used on EACH side of this block for a total of 2 wire runs. This block will be rated to accept a pass flow of 600A which is plenty. Now, this next block is a little more BRUTAL- This next block says, ... 600A continuous isn't enough, lol, we need.... oh... 850A continuous capability! here that one is- the pricing difference in the two isn't that much different believe it or not. I am NOT going to be making both of these... Either one or the other, not both. The price difference is only a $5 increase with going with QUAD wire runs. The debate here is this- The current flow through each one is more than enough.... the question is... which one is in higher demand? Running 4 cables to one input or 2? My vote is keep it at 2 runs... but if somebody thinks otherwise, speak up.

ok man, i got a sketchup coming of the multi wire insert... gimme bout 30 minutes or less and i'll get the idea out there... The cost for these will be lower than the current $66 that others are charging on the other forums... I can speculate that the pricing for these should be under $50 for a pair(power and ground).

yea because some people may already have fuse blocks and just need a big point to connect lots of wire runs too. For instance- let's say someone has installed 20 different LED lighting kits in their car. they have a rear battery in the back. They want to connect all these power runs from their lights to one central location that is wired off of a relay. Well, since there is no 20point block out there.. this would work fine. Let's say someone has 10 amps in their car and all of them are already fused and want to keep them that way but run less wire to their batts, same principle.

Lol, competition is crazy, lol I have decided to build non-fused distro blocks per request so there will be no 1 set design, therefore no pics of those here. Only non-marketed designs will be considered.

got another pic for ya. this is of a buss flat for a stock battery. What this does is connects onto the power or ground post and extends it's connections out so you can get the world connected to it. The following pic is of the ABSOLUTE maximum connection points capable. they will not come this way but just to show how many connections are possible. the side of the bar allows direct connect of factory power cable and factory alternator charging cable. There are more side inserts for other smaller wire if necessary. all posts up top are for 4awg- 1/0 terminals. Larger terminals will be spaced out further.

yea, i was gonna do the multi-insert thing first but something came up and the tooling cost went WAY OUT the window so i'm tryin to find another vendor that can get me what i need for a lot cheaper so i can make them a LOT cheaper than what they are being made for now.

oh, you are thinkin of the multi insert blocks i'm making too... That picture is of the fused-distribution block i will be making rated for ~1,100A of continuous current pass-flow. That's why there are inputs\outputs, it's a fused distro block. the multi-inserts i have put back on the table for a while and am gonna be focusing on these, non fused blocks and buss bars for stock and aftermarket batteries.

OK, here it is- Input lines are on the left, Output lines are on the right-

it's thick ass aluminum block. This is to keep the cost down. I will be getting in some raw painted sheets of fiberglass that the blocks will be glued to. the fiberglass will be the base for these blocks and there will be a cover for them as well made of fiberglass. I havent seen them in person yet but the base and covering should be painted red. If i went with copper.. the price would skyrocket. aluminum is just fine for this current. The block's dimensions that i know of right now are as follows- 6.5" wide x 5.5" long(from input to output) x ~3" tall. I'll try and make a sketchup of it, good idea.

Ok, i'm bout to start testing the fused distribution blocks before being released but before i do, i need some opinions... I've already gotten feedback on how many inputs\outputs this block should have and what type and how many fuses it should be able to hold. Please remember- THESE ARE MASSIVE FUSE BLOCKS. I'm not making blocks that are already marketed. These are for the high powered users. The following is what it will have- 5 Inputs \ 5 Outputs All ring terminal connections. Accepted terminals- 4awg, 2awg, 1awg, 1/0, 2/0, 3/0, 4/0. Fuse information- Accepts BOTH mini-ANL and ANL fuses! It will accept up to 4 ANLs and up to 5 mini-ANLs at the same time if necessary. The next step is current capability- Most marketed fuse blocks are only rated at ~300A continuous. Multi insert blocks can be rated as high as 500A continuous but anything higher than that.. it's unknown what they are rated for... So, how much current should this massive fuse block be rated for? Remember, this is continuous current, not peak current. The fuses will still blow before the block burns because i am going by the current rating of the least amount of heat increase. You have a range of 500-2000A. I will say that 2000A of current is almost impractical BUT... you can always choose it... it would just be pretty $$$, hehe. I can also go above 2000A but i think that's irrational, lol. I have been thinking about going with a rating of 1,100A. If that sounds reasonable.. then i'll keep it at that. Also... what is the ideal pricing of such a massive block? how much do you think a block with 5 inputs, 5 outputs that accepts any large sized wire with up to 9 fuses would normally cost? I'm trying to get some ideas goin so this will fit nicely.

aqx3500.1

well i got a question... What is the actual voltage that these electric vehicles use? I thought it was a lot higher than 12v... Is it not?

i dont know about Nissan's policies but Toyota states that a warranty can only be void if a failure occurs and is found to have been caused by something that the manufacturer did not do. For instance- i put a wall in my scion tc. If my driver seat's sensors failed.. they'd fix it. Now, if my suspension system failed... they wouldnt... Hell, i've even gotten them to replace some weather stripping around my car that came loose from the vibrations, hehe.

haha, that must be a huge list!

that's right! for daily use, i do NOT suggest using these. Audio companies are marketing amps with the proper amount of connections and the right size for daily use. Very select few companies do not but none that are sold here so no need to worry. I will DEFINITELY have a before and after test. I will be using a 3,500w amp for the test so that should be sufficient enough and on stock alternator and limited battery for bad scenarios, If the before and after are terrible or have no difference.. I will only make those accessories that are required for other uses.

well... after doin some thinkin, i'm gonna be doin more than just block inserts... I'm gonna be working on the following- dual wire runs from amp that use 1/0 insertsbuss bars or buss flats(bars that only connect to 1 point for a single battery) for screw posts.buss flat for stock battery post(bar sits lower than post so guaranteed to fit)Massive non fused distribution blockMassive fused distribution blockSubwoofer flatsI'd like to get some comments\suggestions on what they'd like to see in a distro block. The fused block's input and output section are bridged together because they are both solid blocks. Both sides would accept up to 5 massive ring terminals up to 4/0(not 4awg, hehe) per side! The connection between them will be tapped to accept BOTH ANL and mini-ANL fuses. A total of 5-6 fuses capable. The distribution block will be rated for an insane ~1,000A-1,500A of CONTINUOUS current capability. Most distribution blocks on the market are only rated for 300A and some industrial blocks are rated up to 700A to give you an idea. The non fused block is basically just a square flat full of multiple connection points. ALL blocks- fused, non-fused, battery terminal flats- they all connect via ring terminals ONLY for better holding. After talking about this for a while, i also decided to start doin some quick testing with Subwoofer flats. These little pieces will slide directly into the push terminals and output via a flat bar to connect the speaker wire too via ring terminal. The pieces will allow voice coil configuration changes from parallel to series and a more secure connection without fraying. Stay tuned for some updates next month.

lol, i've seen some unnecessary wire runs in my time, hehe. The block for the AQ owner was done by a guy that charged way too much.... I dont like that. The aluminum block that had 8 runs per was installed in a soundigital 12kd amp. Copper is many times more conductive for one and can be made smaller without looking bulky.