shizzzon

2ohm stable amp like kicker or an internally bridged amp like the audiopipe ap30001d would work safely on that sub.

Alloy 1100 or a slightly altered version Alloy 1145 is outstanding for conductivity! However, it does come at a price! If you want to save money and go with a less conductive material, you can use alloy 6061. Alloy 6061 is approximately 20% less conductive so you will need to increase thickness to compensate. It is true that bars can handle more current with more surface area but i don't know how wide you would like to go to compensate for thickness, hehe. I usually like to go no wider than 2".

Audiopipe AP18001D rated at 1800w @1ohm can be had for under $300 for sure, sometimes under $200 shipped and is less than 7" wide.

Audioque has been working on a new project that they may be deciding to release this spring of 2010! It will either be one or 2 different 10kd models but this is what he has said- Pricing will still be fair and cheap based on current models pricing. This 10,000w amp is stated to be rated at 10,000w @1ohm in between 12-14.4v @1%THD. There will also be a 20,000w rated @18v. This monsterous amp will have 3 sets of 1/0 PWR\GND terminals. I'm sure there will be a warning about having an upgraded electrical system, lol. Pricing still hasn't been announced yet and since Digital Designs has dropped out of the "Big Ass Amp Market", that leaves only AQ and a select few other companies left to manufacturer amps over the 10kw mark.

this is JUST for the amps :) each run is gonna be less than 3 ft. I don't think i'll have a voltage problem... not with 100ft of wire

i adjust that filter based upon maximum mechanical movement of the sub itself. That is a preference filter in my opinion as long as you pay attention to what you are doing. Choose a low note that you want to be able to play without it bottoming out. Me, i personally choose 24hz as anything below that.. eh... is pointless for the music i listen to which also includes slowed music. Set volume to maximum listening level, set subsonic ALL THE WAY UP and play the low note tone. while it's playing, gradually turn the filter back down until the subs have reached the maximum movement you wish for them to move and that's it. that's how i do it. Never had problems doin it this way.

also, the sub needs NOT be connected to anything to keep it simple

the ones i buy are usually in the $25-30 range. the last one i bought, soon as i got home, noticed the vAC function doesnt even work... figures... I ALWAYS get the screwed up dmms... I have another one that can't read resistance or vDC... then i got a free one that doesnt read any volts or resistance... Kinda makes me wonder if Rd Audio is behind the engineering

i gotta buy a new dmm like every few months... It seems Sears' dmms under $50 are crap... either that or i'm too loud since i keep em all in the car. only i have problems with reliability though.. it's prob the 155db+, lol

let's look at all the uses a $20 item can do and see why people don't need them.. They can determine if you received the right speaker. They can determine if the coils are damaged. They can determine if a battery is discharged and needs charging. They can determine if your voltage regulator is working properly. They can determine if any power wire runs are shorted to ground by accident. They can determine if a fuse is good or not. They can help in tuning an amp to a certain extent. They can help measure output of an amp but requires more than just a DMM. They can help measure voltage drop issues. They can help find resistance issues with voltage drop from the front to the rear of the car so you can isolate where the problem is occurring. They can help measure voltage levels inside the house and frequency to determine if you have a faulty outlet or wiring in the house. So with these common problems... you are probably right.. you don't need one.

yea man, the night before casper, my termlab must have been on crack cuz all the readings it was giving me was literally pissing me off because it made no sense.

ok, had time today to get the REAL basic meter specs off my new wall i built since i never had time to do it. I don't have an official meca stand so i gotta do everything in the kick for a consistent reading. This is with no deadening, no bracing, no precise tuning, CAR OFF and voltage well under 12v pulling ~800A of current off 1 D3100 and 1 D5100 (~175aH) My headrest to kick score is 2-2.2db difference last time i checked. Kick score off 320A of fusing- 155.7dB\Head - ~should be at least a 153.0db Using 3 15s and 3 AQ3500ds Last score with old wall- 4 15s and 4 AQ3500ds Tuned with car ON at head- 153.4db :) Looks like i'm right where i was last time... but with no tuning, deadening, bracing... I got's me some work to do, I'll be getting a head score this friday night.

no, higher than that. I used to use 2500w amps and i used to set them up with no load on them... I then moved up even higher and was told not to do it on amps that high. It might not be all amps in the general high power classes... i'm not an amp tech so i dont know.. just referring information. I wish someone like db-r or someone else who would know for sure could comment on why because all i was told was the broad side version of it.... nothing precise.

Do NOT do this on high powered amps! I've been told by a manufacturer of car audio equipment that some larger powered amps require a load to set them up, otherwise they can get damaged that way.

while i totally agree... freakin competition rules require them to see everything... if they cant see it.. it's illegal, lol, i'm not joking. I have a relative that's like you all. "If you gonna do it.. do it right." You all, and him, may motivate me enough to do it right the first time. I just gotta get the extras topgun was talkin about.

ok i understand that, sorry for havin u type all that.i wasnt particularly looking for pretty even though i get your drift.i didnt really want to advertise especially in a manner of professionalism.its just something to try, test and use if successful.if i get access to more tools, ill change the appearance of the items.right now,im just focused on makin them first rough i guess u should say

ok, why should the corners be rounded? what benefit is there. nobody i know does this nor purchaases them like this

hey topgun, care to elaborate? all marketed fuse blocks i have are pretty squareand buss bars i've seen are always square.adrian- the user has a solution for preventing itbut the alloy used has excellent prevention of corrosion.they said it would take a few yrs unprotected for it to cause a problem.the alloys i choose all have great preventitive corrosive measures while maintaining high IACS values.some of the stock i ordered earlier is silver plated to maximize the prevention of corrosionn

the corners aren't necessary. the material is uber soft as it is. It seems the softer the material, the more conductive it is, or at least that's how aluminum is. Copper is already a soft material.

yea thats def b stock, lol. u guys are hilarious. I just ordered the material for the fuse block and stock battery bar... and no, it wont be crooked.

this guy has been given me grief over stewey pics all night about this, lol.. I'm not trying to portray this as a business but just as a capability upon request... Now, if something later down the road happened and i got hundreds of requests... well that's different. As of right now, i like to keep it simple and see how testing goes first.

i already know about the corrosive use and all that. fully aware. Those bars in the pic are copper and are unprotected. the user has a bottle of protection he can use on them. I will be building the block out of aluminum. Both the copper alloy that was used to make the bars and the aluminum i will be using has extremely high corrosion resistant properties. I am being told it will take several years without protection for the material to begin a noticeable state of oxidation that would start to degrade performance if not coated. Many people may not even coat theirs due to the time it would take. Others who want to can purchase products for aluminum and copper. i am about to go sleep so i'll be back later tomorrow about this if necessary.

also, there was nothing special with those bars i posted.. they were left over stock for somebody that needed some extra connections.. gimme a week or two for the fuse block to be made.

lol, the bandsaw i will be using was not in my possession when i did those... I had to do those freehand and i mean freehand... in the air and everything, lol. When i do the fuse block, it will be all on a table which is the next thing on the list. Yea crazykenkid, as of right now, i fully understand what you are saying but at this time... the tools to do it have disappeared from my possession so i put it back on the list until i get access to them permanently.

I'm ordering a pretty large stock of materials tomorrow morning so the ideas that are presented here are put to work. there will be pics n prices in a week or two.