shizzzon

lol.no i can assure u that a porn tab would have its own browser window. :)that tab and the lower left program window are things i wont publicly exposeits related to hobbies i work in and i dont want unfinished work or research showneven the software used... too much competition out there

just created account and this is what it does when i add stuff to the cart-

lol, you'd be ok on stock alt and 300,000w. It all depends on how well you monitor what's goin on with your electrical system. Take me for example- My alt can only output so much current so when it maxes out, the rest comes from the batteries. Now, i never listen to it loud for no more than a few seconds because it's unbearable. But let's say i did anyways. Once the constant load is gone, the alt is still maxed out to charge the batteries back up... that's NOT what you want. If that happens, the alt can overheat and die eventually. IF that were to ever happen(from monitoring your system properly), you can unhook the charging cable that separates your starting battery from the entire rear battery bank. that way, the alternator only charges the starting battery and to prevent an alt failure to charge the rest in the back, they would be manually charged via charger and left unhooked from the car until they are fully charged back up.

stock alt (110A) 21,000w of amplifier power. been that way for about 3 months, no problems whatsoever. Might have to put the battery charger on a batt bank once every 10-15days but besides that, they stay at 13.2v rest. I'm patiently waiting for a secret alternator...i'm in no rush.

need to check the store site, man. It's tellin me that i cannot create an account because it can't ship to louisville, ky.

since the enclosure is basically dual chambered, you would divide the port width in half = 4.75" and that's the minimum space to be used between the back wall and end of port wall. If you make the space that size, your port length will increase by several inches decreasing port tuning. If you make the space larger, it will slightly increase tuning compared to lengthening it as said above.

honestly, cone area is becoming irrelevant lately... Been competing.. i've seen plenty of designs where cone area isn't the key. If you disregard installation and design, motor force and power is what's left. Even for those who don't compete, pressure is pressure. It's how much of a difference can be heard? Typically, a 3db change can be heard. I strongly believe a 15" btl in the proper daily tuned box will perform greatly over 3 8s. I have nothing against the sa's, i would just go the btl route. When running multiple subs, you start getting into phasing and while 99% of people don't fool around with this area.. you'd be surprised how multi sub setups can get complicated. I look into the nitty gritty side of things from a competitive side. I just believe there's more potential there with a 15. Now, that depends on how far the user wants to go to get it installed in an efficient design.

the 15 more than likely has more motor.. i'd go 15.

i tested at 152.2 then i taped around all subs and all 90degree corners and did a 153.4 biches,heheim still not tuned... but i got the official headrest stand now

u may have seen it in person... but not wired up Here it is wired up-

this is what happens when your amps don't have line outs and u gotta do everything the old fashion way... Now, this is what happens when i install them- The final pic will come soon... just gotta go take it.

no, each port will still need to be a little bit longer even when maintaining the same port area as one large port.

DC Power told me that if u run dual alts, they need to both be using the same regulator. If not... then each alternator has to have it's OWN battery bank.

while it may be nice to finish off my collection with every other tool in the world.. some tools like that are just impractical cost-wise for the alternative methods to get the same outcome.

Ok, well here is the results so far from the making of the fuse holder- After using 2 separate bandsaws, a gravity saw and a table type version, the material i'm using just isn't "cutting" it. Because of this, the capability of using 2 different types of fuses for 1 master block will NOT be made... The sketchup will change. There will be 2 versions, a block for ANLs and one for mini-ANLs. They will be as follows- 1/0-4/0 cable- 6-8 inputs\outputs 4awg cable - 8-10 input\outputs ANL fusing version- holds up to 6 ANLs mANL fusing version- holds up to 10mANLs here is a pic of the spacing lugs with the ANL version- They will be mounted on either 1\2" thick Fiberglass or 1\2" thick PVC plate with a Fiberglass covering if requested. The fiberglass cover is red and so is the fiberglass base. the PVC sheeting is gray. All of the bolts are socket caps so you can torq them down pretty good. All holes are fine threads to assist in torqing. All bolts and washers come with the fuse holder. I may also be supplying fuses as well in the near future. I can't show a finished product because the version i made was of the sketchup model and i will not be going that route anymore. These blocks will, as from the pic, be simple shaped, and effective. They will be rated for 1200A continuous this time rather than the 1000A previously. this should be enough for approx 30,000w worth of rated amplifiers using dynamic tracks. I won't have any other pics of the fuse holder until i make some more locally, then i can update the pics of them then. The stock battery buss flats are made but not finished, i'll probably do them after i get back from SBN.

it's an electrical system issue, nothing else. To drop so low it dims lights, that means the alt isn't reacting fast enough to the load or the alt isn't putting out enough current at a given rpm. Regardless... if the alt isn't doin it's job, then the battery may be discharged.... this is what i need to find out.

did u ever meter your voltage? I wanted you to post your voltage numbers so we can see what u have.

it's time to whip out the dmm and check your voltage with the car on. Once u turn the car off, wait about 5hrs before checking the battery's voltage. Otherwise, you'll just read surface charge and that's not the resting voltage.

no it's not, i'll have to space them out later. Unfortunately, i don't have alot of space to do that either. I'm only gonna be able to space them every 19/64th of an inch, that's just over 1\4" per amp. Luckily, i'll be running them at 0.7 ohms now rather than 0.3 ohms... Even when running them ar 0.3, they didnt get all that hot on music. I'm running them at 0.7 now so i can gain my efficiency back since my division is based on fusing so i need all the efficiency i can get.

Ok here they are. I already spaced them out after takin this pic. I'll "try" and install them tomorrow but.. 120lbs of amps n mount isn't light to carry by yourself.

man... u know how many 12v batts u would need! 16v all the way baby! less weight and more power!

Anybody wanna see what over $4,000 worth of AQ amps look like? I'm about an hour or so away from installin em into their enclosure so i can secure them to my false floor in my Scion tC. It's gettin dark so i'll have to take a flash shot of em, hope it turns out good. I wont have any wires ran to them tonight, i'll do that tomorrow i guess.

I've heard people talk about not bumping in your residence but come on... u can't keep your audio system secret forever, people eventually find out. My neighborhood is full of the elderly and police so it's mandatory respect right there. In regards to the security- alarm system with as many sirens as u want to have installed on the inside and out and as many sensors as u can afford, logical sensors. you dont need a prox and window break sensor for instance, get the prox sensor instead. Bullet\breakproof laminate sheeting on all glass(except windshield). Insure as much stuff as your insurance company will allow. Also, the more professional an install is, the harder it is to steal so vandalism is the only thing you really have to worry about when dealing with a nice install. Install amps under false floors. Securely mount batteries. I like to mount my batteries on top of amps, who steals batts? even when mounted? bolt speaker box to car from the inside of the box. Simple things, no need to go the route of using specialty screws for every connection point...

it does exactly what it says it does, i've got a local that runs one, soon to be two. I've pulled just over 1,400w out of one at 6.2ohms and that's pretty amazing. For people who like to link low, even though they are only 2 ohm stable in bridge mode, there protection circuit allows playback down until 1.37ohms. Curious as to what power it does that low, hehe, although probably wouldnt matter... efficiency would probably be crappy as hell.

i know the 6500 doesnt... i dont know about the 10000 or the 15000...