shizzzon

112 Park Avenue Frankfort, KY MECA 2x Event - $30\$25 member Judging begins at 11am.

Shriner's Fest Casino Aztar Pavilion, 421 NW Riverside Dr., 47708 Judging starts at 10am. $40 non member\$35 member admission Spectator cost is FREE. There will be beer there... you drunk asses, lol.

I just got done applying SPL tiles to the outer shell and inner frame of the door. The door itself sounds a lot better but now i would like to prevent the door from flexing within reason. I have the idea of rolling the window all the way down so i can then make a form with cardboard in between the window and the outer shell of the door, then just fill it in with expanding foam. I'll do probably about 80% of the outer shell so it doesn't interfere with anything on the far ends of the door such as wiring or door locks, etc... As far as i know, besides that, i just gotta make sure i do not block the drain holes on the bottom of the door and i should be good, right? i've never attempted to brace the outer shell so severily before so i need to make sure i'm not about to make a mistake.

i can guarantee you this- If u want extremely loud with awesome sound quality... you prob spend more money on equipment and testing than u did on those 4 18s alone. SQ cost more than SPL does... well... typically. Depends how loud u are, I'd pick up the phone and call Hybrid Audio and get some knowledge from them and see what they tell you to do. Point is not to use their equipment but they use to be big SQ guys and know what sounds good...

i know what you mean by loud... but do not use the word clear as it doesnt pertain to loud, Sure you can control the clarity of it, in reference to low distortion output, but when it comes to phasing and proper aiming of the speakers, that can throw the clear out somewhat as i would interpret clear to mean more on the sound quality side and it's easier to tune less speakers than it is more speakers. So... for just loud, i'd start doin research on a single pair of horn tweeters and a few sets of woofers for your doors and get your doors sealed and deadened too. See if that's what you want and if it is... then there you go. It probably won't even sound as great in terms of clarity as a stock system would but it will definitely get loud.

because horns rely on the acoustics of the car and how the sound rolls out of the horn to achieve it's efficiency that people assume will be achieved. They must be mounted under the dash properly, otherwise.. it will loose efficiency if just ran wide open like any other speaker.

Not tryin to be Mr Obvious but this piece appears to be cracked-

M5 told me a while back that horn tweeters are geared to just get piercing loud. They are not smooth like normal tweeters, so they are peaky from what i gather. I wouldnt mind tryin some... but do not get 4... That's hilarious.

not set to ohms, u cant...

so.... i drove to daytona for a show. thats 13hrs away for me.

if u add another battery, you need a voltmeter installed to monitor the rear battery. IF, which i do not believe at this moment, that your front battery is severely discharged, adding a second battery will only lead to prolong overworking of the alternator and one would need a remote voltmeter to monitor a change in voltage when the stereo is low or off. You don't want an alt to burn up from trying to charge low batts. But, enough speculation... Don't decide anything without knowing some fact about what's going on.

are your lights dimming fairly low when this happens? From past experience with several other pioneer units... right before it goes into protect, does the bass sound aggressively distorted in any way? If the sub sounds different, like it's trying to do too much right before it goes into protect, your rca preouts may be going out or are already damaged. Pioneer units are 100% prone to this and they need to fix this issue ASAP. I'm not saying that is your problem but if you do not have a voltage problem... i'd be unplugging the rca line from the headunit and plug something else up to it like an ipod or something and see if it still does it.

that's normal. Voltage will increase with rpms and\or a load present.

what about wrap? There was a member here, cant remember his name, that would vinyl wrap his amps, they were pretty cool.

your voltage will likely stay the same from the front to the rear when there is no or a low load flowing through that long power wire. Once a significant load is sent through the wire, you will get to see the full extent of your voltage drop issue when you are not using large enough wire that long, not having a battery in the back.. or having other problems like bad ground. IT should be typical for you to see a 0.5v drop during a load from the front battery to the amp... However, because you are seeing a lot more than that, it's not the size-to-length of the wire.... sounds like loose connection somewhere.

Oh my god... You know... after looking at this 4 channel amp... it makes me glad i own a sundown 100.4

aero's are easier to remove but it looks like your port will be made out of wood. You will need to either form a lip around the entire port so you can bolt it to the box or you can make a massive port area and change tuning by plugging part of the port. I do these with different designs but depending on the size and how the box is made, one of the 2 methods usually cant be used due to space, it's either one or the other.

i like new, this gonna be an interesting show, hope u show. Hell, i'm still tryin to break 54s with my wall with 3 15s... i got over 20kw of power.. i fail, lol. the wall isn't braced too well really... my first wall.. guess i gotta start somewhere.

I believe ya, Derek. Watch out though.. there's someone i know in your class that isn't light-hearted about competition so u better bring your world class with you to the show if u come because this show isn't for the lighthearted so no sandbaggin.

box wouldnt be big enough and your port area is too small for such an install. A Single 6" Aero would be the BARE minimum i'd go with.

Anybody ever hear of this company? All they make is extremely high priced speakers and a single 10, 12 and 15. They claim to build very high efficient spl subs but the cost is ridiculous. For instance, they have a 10" sub that only uses a 2" coil, rated at 400wrms but goes for $1,000 new, $800 on ebay or $500 if you are sponsored. Here is their site- www.acshockwave.com

um... NDMStang IS Fi... looks like u heard somethin 2 weeks ago.

pay no attention to the input\output section of a distribution block. That's just for reference for their view of how it may be used. the entire block is conductive so it doesnt matter which side is the input.

i think u need to go buy a dmm and shut your sound system completely off from here on out until you can verify that your electrical system, your alternator and your starting battery are all in good working order before troubleshooting your sound any further.

i've witnessed\personally dealt with both companies. DC is the way to go. I should know.. i should have an early birthday sometime soon.... Gotta keep it secret but if all goes well.. my car is about to break a record in the alternator market