shizzzon

For you to maintain that consistent average pressure in a car that is not permanently modified and completely driveable deserves a BIG congratulations! That's purely awesome work man!

it's not that it won't work.. it's the fact that since it is a liquid, it would be practically impossible to apply a liquid onto a flat surface PERFECTLY with no ripples or imperfections. It would need to be sanded to make it smooth but even then can come imperfections by sanding too much in one area than another. It's almost like i'm being OCD about it but in all seriousness, it needs to be level and smooth as hell. There are many more things i will need to be doin research on inside of the enclosure but this is just one of them. I was talkin to a buddy of mine of being able to run 8awg wire as speaker wire off the sub's terminals WITHOUT them being in the way of airflow at all. An idea i had is to route out a trench in the walls of the enclosure and tuck them down into it then install this sheeting so the wires are visibly gone and out of sight. I'm actually gonna be runnin dual runs of 8awg wire Pos and Neg to each sub. There will be adapters for them to fit because the wire runs are probably gonne be about 15ft long and the subs will be wired in a manner to accept up to 65A of current through the wire for competition and they will need the most wire possible to support this load with the least voltage loss from amp to sub.

I know many people resin but i want to try something that can guarantee a consistent smooth surface such as sheeting. It will be a long time before i do this for the install i want to do it for. I'll go to Lowes tomorrow and look around and talk to them about it and see what else i can find out.

i'm gonna have to stop by lowes and a shop recommended to me that works with different types of glass. someone fill me in on the following if i'm wrong here. Most people resin\sand\resin, etc.. to get that smooth surface as best as possible. This can lead to human error about getting it perfect. Others just use smooth tape. While they also may gain a little, it's not as much as a denser alternative. I believe the reasoning is due to the enclosure flexing. If the enclosure is flexing, then the tape is flexing with it and only helping a little... IF the enclosure is stiff and rigid, externally braced and secured, then a smoother surface that is not structurally supporting the enclosure such as tape may gain more. So people who use dense smoothing techniques are not only smoothing the surface but making it more rigid at the same time. Slightly but still..

here it is- 2010 MECA Rules U just need to focus on the SPL section.

u ever compete in MECA before? Every sanctions rules are different. MECA's classes are FUSED unless you run the highest class in a certain division.

if u feel like drivin to KY, TN, MI, etc... MECA has all kinds of shows there.

forger cone area, go with the option with the most motor. Cone area doesnt help in competition... Pressure is pressure and motor helps more than cone area... proven and proven the more i go to shows...

it accepts 1/0 Kolossus cable so all 1/0-2/0 cables will fit.

Acrylic is plastic sheeting like i was thinkin about... and like u say, there WILL BE SEAMS :( Plexi would be too heavy. I dont think thickness would need to be 1\4".. i was aiming for 1\8" to keep cost down. Anyways, jumping the seams is tricky. I found some stuff online that is suppose to be super lubricated that sprays out. Maybe i could spray that across the seams, i dont know... Up here in South Dakota Menard's carries 4x8 sheets of acrylic sheeting in 1/8" thickness! Not exactly cheap but would eliminate seams other than the where the sheets meet. I found a 6'x3' sheet at lowes for about $47. They claim it's 20x stronger than glass.. Although i dont need it for structural support, it just has to be smooth. I know formica is smooth... but it's pretty $$$ too.

frequency doesnt matter... It's just what gets you the loudest when tuning. My buddies car peaked lower and lower the more he tuned it. He can do a mid 53 at 38hz with a single 18. He used to peak at 47hz. I'm gonna try to start high, as close to 100hz as possible and work my way down until i peak.

Acrylic is plastic sheeting like i was thinkin about... and like u say, there WILL BE SEAMS :( Plexi would be too heavy. I dont think thickness would need to be 1\4".. i was aiming for 1\8" to keep cost down. Anyways, jumping the seams is tricky. I found some stuff online that is suppose to be super lubricated that sprays out. Maybe i could spray that across the seams, i dont know...

it's possible.. I know a close buddy of mine capable of doin just under a 154 with a single 18, no wall. It's possible, just harder. I'm planning on downgrading cone area and increasing motor strength to get me tons louder. I use ~400sqin of port but that's not enough for competition. I'm tryin to get at least 600sqin out of a car... this will be a challenge.

it's a dbdrag style wall. Tuning and peak will change with modification so it's not important. The design isn't even started to be built yet but once it is, and tuning has been set, i will then need to smooth the surface and finish tweaking the tuning again to finalize the design.

I totally agree. #5 is the one that should be made. The rest of the shirts have awesome style but the others do not fit the impression SSA gives.

the router 100% Find what the outer diameter is of both speakers than set that size. Measure the depth from the mounting frame and set your router to cut to that depth or a hair deeper. Cut those 2 circles out first. That way no wood falls off and you still get your center point to use. Now just readjust your circle jig to cut out the mounting hole and WALA, done.

Seriously, any company nowadays who still list power ratings by peak power... i'd skip that choice.

This wouldnt be really recommended for those who do not compete so I'll tell you now that this isn't necessary or needed for normal use of an amplifier. But for those who want the most out of their amps on the meter, read on... I am going to be getting into some projects soon for the car audio comp world and start making my own everything... I have several plans laid out for the competition world and for starters, i plan on making some multi insert wire blocks. Basically what it is is this- (for amps that accept 1/0 inserts only at this time) It would be a block of copper that inserts into the amp's power\ground terminal then outputs in a manner that can accept 2 ring terminals efficiently of ANY size as long as the outer diameter of the ring terminal itself is no wider in diameter than 1". 2/0 ring terminals are just under 7/8" wide to give you an idea. This block is capable of handling loads of ~600A continuous PER insert so this block is safe and plenty capable of being used. The purpose of the inserts is to give the user the capability of running multi wires to an amp just like competitors do to\from their batteries. This will help get as much power out of your amp as possible. There is a user on another forum selling these for almost $70 a set(2 inserts per amp for power\ground) but i can guarantee that they will not be that expensive, lol. I will be testing these for smaller inserts later on but since most people use 1/0 inserts, i'm focusing on that first. I was gonna experiment with multi speaker wire runs but i find it completely unnecessary so don't ask, I will be doing before and after tests of current draw and voltage drop at the amp before and after using these inserts to see the difference. I hope to prove the use of these in real world.use. It will be a couple weeks before the first small batch is made and if successful performance-wise, i'll start making loads of these. I have plans for 3 different ways of making these work so i gotta see which ways, if any, is not a good choice for the masses.

this thread still isn't dead. I'm planning on ordering some more tools soon and start making the power\ground inserts and speaker terminal inserts as well. Again, daily drivers need not acquire these... these are primarily focused on the competitor for overkill purposes. in a month or so, i hope to show off some of them. Goal for inserts- For power\ground- capability to hold 2 runs of any size cable up to 4/0 per insert. For speaker terminals- capability to hold 2 runs of up to 8awg cable per insert. THE SPEAKER INSERTS WILL ALSO BE USED to insert in the sub's terminals! This will help those who try to run 8awg wire to their subs terminals and have to keep trimming it to fit! These will come in handy for that purpose. They will also be made in a way to be able to rewire to series or parallel by just moving a cable to a different part of the insert for those who can get inside of their box or if you wish to pull the sub out. You can also do this at the amp but requires a lot of wire runs and is impractical money-wise. I'm getting there...

There's another system i came across too but cant find pricing so must be $$, it's called SPL-X but besides that, that's all i know, lol.

I don't mean to criticize your new build but have you ever thought(unless u are) about building one with neo mags? There aren't many companies doing that right now but for those of us who need 50-100lb motors for competition who can't support the weight when using multiple drivers... there's a big interest in this part of car audio at the moment. Of course it also benefits those who just daily drive too due to the weight of these monsters.

You guys like it when i tease? lol Well, i'm gonna stop goin to shows for a couple weeks and try and tweak my wall a little. I can't seem to break 153s anymore.. i must be gettin old, lol. Anyways, the last show i went to, my back wall cracked where the allthread is ran at... so it wont be too much longer til i gotta tear down and rebuild. So where is the teaser part? Oh... here it is- Once i tear down and rebuild, after the car is braced for the first time... should have done that prior to the wall, i'l be testing some single sub setups before i build another wall. I've got a part list for a design and some equipment later on this year for the goal i plan on doing this year... oh da da da da da... sometime towards the end of summer, ladee dee dee dee dee... i'm gonna try and break a 160... off of 320A of fusing... Remember, the wall i have now was just to learn off of... the next one will be for real. This new build will go out to all those who are helping me do this... DC Soundlab DC Power XS Power KnuKonceptz The A Team and some other competitors that are not in my class that wish me well Go Team DC Audio...

yea i see... i guess i'll just go meditate til May.

i dont know who u have been talkin too but i have emailed them and this is the 4th day i've waited and still no answer to my inquiries. They seem shady to me... I'm glad i havent already done business with them because the DA wouldnt help me any, lol.

There is a review coming up soon for this so stay tuned. Ordered thursday, it was built, tested, shipped and received in only 3 business days from TN to KY. It will try to be installed by the end of the week or early next week. Pics and performance readings to come soon. This alt is definitely nice. Weighing in at what it looks like 16-17 lbs. I'll get a better reading next time. Rated to do 250A full tilt.