shizzzon

lol, i use a single d3100 and d5100 with stock alt on 21,000w of AQ amps for comp and demoing. So i'd say.... yea, lol.

contact phi on here. He has access to them. See if his distributor still has some in stock.

I expect to hear an extensive review of this meter when u get it too!

cant do snatch and grabs with bulletproof laminate sheeting

for the money, i'd just stick with what u have and if u need any more dekas, buy 1-2 more. If you close to KY, i can hook u up with some dekas for around $100 or a little more brand new, the 9a31s, but it's gotta be local pickup only. We do LOTS of group buys on these batts about every month or so.

caraudiodeals

talk to me about security, i'll give u the info u need to know. I'll warn u now, security isnt cheap. I spent about $1,400 on my car.

if anyone else wants a deal, hop on over to the Group buy thread and put your name down in the FS section.

i dont care if he adds 5,000 runs of 1/0 cable. For him to drop to 13v flat means his alternator is maxed out at the rpm he is at. You can't maintain 14v or higher with a stock alt and a bunch of batteries and wire unless you use a fluxcap which is NOT what i am recommending either. You simply need a high output alt to maintain that voltage level.

It is 2 1500s strapped internally. The speaker terminals have dual + and - connections. These are NOT paralleled inside like many new amps are today. They work independently from each other. The amp is rated as follows- 1500wx2 @1ohm 2000wx1 BRIDGED @4ohm 3000wx1 BRIDGED @2ohm

when we first started playin with the APs, everybody was still leary about them... Several months later, me and others started pushin people to use them because of their reliability and performance. There are MANY people in my area right now running these AP amps and nobody has issues with them. Just because they are a mainstream company doesn't mean they are crap because they are so cheap. I bet you didn't know the MAP pricing of an AP30001D is over $600 did you? Just because people can get them half off at other places doesn't make them cheap. The companies that sell them for just over $300 is cheaper than dealer pricing. I know this because our local dealer told us this and doesn't think it's fair, lol.

i go about reliability and performance of an amp. The amp puts out, no doubt. It's not overrated. It is durable as hell. I know for a fact the Kicker is a higher quality amp just like there is always gonna be a higher quality out there. But in terms of push harder? U cant hear a power difference even if the power varied by a couple hundred watts. I like AP because their Customer service is good, prices are cheap, and performance can't be beaten when comparing the cost.

even at 15ft?

Audiopipe AP30001D. Coming from a competitor standpoint, they are stout enough to survive in the lanes and for everyday use. Stable to 2ohms @3,000w and has been tested by me personally to accept a wired load down to 0.45ohms before rise for burps. It is protection happy that low but doesn't phase it's capability to recover immediately.

The Knukonceptz Konfused battery terminals should NOt be used with high output alts either... How ironic is that? considering how they support 3 1/0 inserts. The material they make the terminal out of is of the poorest conductor to use obviously. Back when i had a 200A measured alt on my car, those terminals would get SCORCHING hot! That's a great indicator of resistance buildup inside the terminal. I make my own terminals now. I would offer the OP some but right now, i dont want to rush myself before i'm ready to start producing them regularly.

i believe those who use cages use 1" square tubing

Well, because i will be removing the weight issue in my car soon, nothing stands in my way now for my next build so i need anyone's opinions on the strongest build u can think of. Any negative thoughts about any methods is 100% welcome as i don't want something that will fail. Here is one method i have been thinking about but remember, i'm looking for the best option(within costs, hehe, dont wanna spend several grand on an enclosure) Option1- Lay 2x4s on their side(so 3.5" thick) all the way around the car. Then inside of this chamber, lay 1 layer of 3\4" Oak inside. Install Angle Iron outside of the enclosure and weld 1\8" thick steel bars to all corners of the Angle Iron and run them around the enclosure. Secure the welded frame to the car. Got any other ideas? I like to keep total thickness under 4.5"

do i gotta put a lock on it? hehe u think 1\8" thick steel is enough?

I'm not now, no where near, i'm just a couple db over a 150 right now... but the goal for the end of this year is a 160. Actually my goal is over a 160 just for the fact that i dont wanna get a 160 and say i'm done competing.. I just wanna excel.

but 0.1db is a lot when approaching the 160range. Ok then.. I see serious competitors keep resining and sanding over and over again til their score just doesnt increase anymore. I guess i should stick to resining then.

i was thinking of using 1\8" thick steel all the way around and angle iron on the corners. Of course though, a cage only helps on the areas that it is attached at to the enclosure.

i've got a debate goin on about the inside smoothness right now. A longterm competitor told me resin and sanding was the best method of smoothness and reflective properties... What i don't understand is why can't a lay a layer of 1\8" thick Lexan inside of the enclosure? It won't break. It wont crack and is pretty damn smooth and reflective.. and more consistently smooth than sanding is.

I have also thought about using sand but do not know if sand is stronger than oak or 2x4s comparing thicknesses.

i'm afraid concrete will crack because it's so brittle. I was thinking of using concrete bricks from Lowes u use in your backyard but am afraid it may crack overtime.

IT'S ON LIKE DONKEY KONG!!! You ever been a competitor that wanted to install in your vehicle but know your car wouldnt support it so u forced to downgrade your install? THAT'S HOW I'VE BEEN TIL NOW... For those that know me, you know i've been battling the weight limit of my car for this new secret build i'm planning on doing... the only real solution is airride but i didnt want to drop $3,000 + install costs just to get louder, u know. hehehehehe, the answer has FINALLY came available for my car. AirLift Tech has finally started marketing their airride kit in sections so i don't have to buy the entire kit. I can install it just for the rear or the front, Rear air ride install = less than $1,000 Now... for those who know me..... guess what i'm planning in my Scion tC..... wha hahaha.... the game has changed and my car should be setting a wicked record not before planned.... All the visions i had of extreme installations has come back into play, Wait til later on this year... this build log will get pretty crazy, I GUARANTEE IT! Team DC Audio... You will like it.