shizzzon

then u better get in on the group buy then and save u some money. I HIGHLY encourage anyone that has doubts to read their website www.spl-lab.ru and see what all they have to offer. We have access to all their products. I own a termlab and i still want one of these meters because i never liked the interface box that comes with the termlab... too expensive to replace, stupid concept, in my opinion to have to use and not well thought through when built. IF you ever look at the internals of an interface box.. it's not user serviceable... circuit board soldered on top of another circuit board.. come on now ... It's funny because i didnt know the OP made this thread and i just got word about the new vid and posted the link to it on the group buy thread then i see this thread and another forum was talkin about it too.

like with all boxes i build.. visually watch the sub's movement on very low tunes to ensure that they do not bottom out before lettin it rip on music. Use that subsonic filter if necessary even on a sealed box. Crossovers on an amp shouldnt be set based on a rule of thumb but to prevent equipment failure then to set to your personal listening preference. If u got access to test tones, that'd be the key to set the crossover right to whatever size box you build, even if it's their recommended size.

without actually knowing the subs personally and just by going off of sealed boxes in general- The larger a sealed box, the more flat it can sound until it is put in a car as a car will have peaks in your response. The smaller a sealed box, it will still have peaks regardless but a smaller sealed box will tend to peak in the upper frequency range. the smaller sealed box may feel like it's pounding your chest harder so to say but you loose some of that low end feeling at the same time. I would stick with their musical preference for music. You can always build the sealed box to 2 cuft net and see how that sounds. Be careful though as to not bottom out your sub as the larger the sealed box, the less and less power it will want mechanically. If the box were to be found to be too big, you can always add a couple to a few layers of wood inside to decrease volume.

i guess the mdf that is sold in my area is the good stuff because i've had it rained on before and i dried it off and still never had problems with it. I've never had any problems with mdf around here... and we build lots of boxes around this area. I am planning on going with 2x4s and Oak with my next build just because it's thicker and heavier.

what's ur next build? I'll tell u mine if u tell me urs, hehe... This isn't finalized yet because i won't EXACTLY what cone area i'll be usin until i see how much baffle room i have left... But as of right now... We are lookin at tearin the wall down and rebuildin with 5 Lvl4XL 12s off of 32,500w think that should be loud in a scion tc? LMAO...

Oscar r - I have sent your request to the manufacturer and I will let you know something either tonight or tomorrow evening, ok? For those who still WANT TO SEE THIS THING IN ACTION- Look here- Go to this link and play the first video you see- This video is done with both a Tlab and an SPL-LAB mic on the windshield within a couple inches of each other. SPL-LAB rates their meter to be within 0.1db accurate of the Tlab and this is proof- New SPL-Lab Video The 0.1db variance could be caused from the meters not being in the exact location or just the accuracy of the meter itself. Notice how the resolution on the SPL-Lab meter is DIGITAL when reading frequency and by the 1\100th! Termlab's frequency resolution is only by a whole number, not even a tenth! Also notice how the Termlab and SPL-LAB operate differently when the burp is done. The termlab cycles in 1 sec intervals when displaying the results. The SPL-LAB software rapidly rolls up to the resulting number without any breaks in the score. Imagine what it would look like in realtime metering? When you need to see change happen faster than 1 second intervals, you see this meter will help you! However, don't let the rapid refresh rate of this meter fool you... IT still reads just as accurate as a Tlab, but faster

no because a d2 sub can ONLY be wired at 1 or 4 ohm. To run it at 2 ohms, u would need 2 amps, one ran to EACH coil. I'd only recommend doin that for burps but i know that's not your intentions. A dual 1 or Dual 4 ohm sub is what's needed for 2 ohm wiring with that amp for max safe output.

make the internal volume smaller? that will gradually increase tuning.

Update - SSA Forums - Bigrank916 - USB/LCD MeterOther Forums - 01SpyderDb23 - USB Meter90TalonTSi - USB MeterTotal - 3

Yes it does. According to their site, it is timed for 30 second averages just like Bassrace or Park n Boom\Driveby in MECA.

Update - SSA Forums - Bigrank916 - USB/LCD MeterOther Forums - 01SpyderDb23 - USB MeterTotal - 2

Sounds good! SSA Forums- Bigrank916 - USB/LCDOther Forums - 0

Here is the official pricing YOU would have to pay if you did it yourself first. I like everybody to see this before you see the actual group buy pricing so you can what you are really saving. USB Bass meter- Cost - $270 Shipping - $55 Wire transfer fee - Typically $10-45 Total customer cost - $335-370 USB Bass meter PRO (2 meters side by side) Cost - $470 Shipping - $55 Wire transfer fee - Typically $10-45 Total customer cost - $535-570 USB with LCD Bass meter- Cost - $330 Shipping $55 Wire transfer fee - Typically $10-45 Total customer cost - $395-440 RTA meter- Cost - $250 Shipping - $55 Wire transfer fee - Typically $10-45 Total customer cost - $315-350 Now here is group buy pricing - USB Bass meter - (single meter) 5-9 Orders - $327 Shipped in the lower 48 states. 10-24 Orders - $300 Shipped in the lower 48 states. 25-45 Orders - $271 Shipped in the lower 48 states. Orders over 45, even more discount but more custom pricing. USB Bass meter PRO - (dual meters side by side) 5-9 Orders - $512 Shipped in the lower 48 states. 10-24 Orders - $465 Shipped in the lower 48 states. 25-45 Orders - $415 Shipped in the lower 48 states. Orders over 45, even more discount but more custom pricing. USB with LCD Bass meter - 5-9 Orders - $382 Shipped in the lower 48 states. 10-24 Orders - $350 Shipped in the lower 48 states. 25-45 Orders - $315 Shipped in the lower 48 states. Orders over 45, even more discount but more custom pricing. RTA meter - 5-9 Orders - $308 Shipped in the lower 48 states. 10-24 Orders - $282 Shipped in the lower 48 states. 25-45 Orders - $257 Shipped in the lower 48 states. Orders over 45, even more discount but more custom pricing. PLEASE REMEMBER - NOT EVERYBODY HAS TO ORDER 25 OF ONE THING TO GET THE 25-45 DISCOUNT! THIS IS BASED AS A WHOLE GROUP ORDER REGARDLESS OF WHICH METER U WANT. The exact pricing will be finalized once the group buy is over. Pricing should NOT increase, i'll make damn sure i'll keep this pricing set firm.

I'll be posting pricing in a few minutes. I would like to let people know this before just as a "Just in case this happens" from some new info i was just told by the company. This may not happen but if it does i want you all to be aware. If this does happen, which may not, it should only vary by a few bucks. They have informed me that since they do not keep a large inventory, it's quite possible that some requests may need to be build during the time the money is sent off. This is what this means- If all the orders are NOT the same... For example- 5 people want the usb bass meter and 5 people want the lcd meter and 5 people want the rta... If some of these items are not already made, they will have to go into quick production and make each thing separately that isn't already ready.... What this means is that it's "possible" that a slight increase in dealer cost would happen. I'm NOT SAYING it will.. so this is what's gonna happen to keep everybody informed- I'm gonna post pricing in just a few minutes. At the end of the group buy, i will send the requested list to them to give me a verified pricing list for everybody! Once this has happened, EVERYBODY will need to send me the money IN FULL at that time. There will be no partial payments, it will need to be in full. Once all the payments have been received(i'll give u all a little while), then the order will be sent off with a time frame if anything needs to be made. Again, even if the dealer cost goes up, if it's not by much, then i might not change these prices but everybody will be informed of the actual price once the group buy is over! The group buy is set to end 5-26-10. IF it starts to get slow before then, i may end it early. Again, give me a few minutes to post pricing.

WE HAVE PRICING PEOPLE. PRICING WILL BE POSTED EITHER TOMORROW OR THURSDAY. GROUP BUY WILL BE EXTENDED UNTIL 5-26-10

i am sorry, my mistake, you are right. The more espensive it is, the shorter the wait it is. I'm gonna tell you now... We are trying to work with the company to get to sell these things in the US with NO SHIPPING charges past onto customers. That's our 1st goal. 2nd goal... well we'll see.

the db dragers told me resin and sand would be the best option price-wise. They said using Polycarbonate sheeting may actually do better on the mic vs resining and sanding but at what cost does a 0.1db increase suffice if it even did? The view he looked at it was, the adhesive used to adhere glass to wood would be the problem compared to resin which would be part of the wood.

I am currently looking for the best method or material that can be used inside an SPL based enclosure that can help get an extensive increase in pressure. Lots of people do different things but most follow others... Typical things tried is- sanding wood, applying resin, resanding, resin over, etc.... Ceramic tiles. Using heavy material such as marble or granite(not what i'm looking for). I am looking to find out if sanding and resining is what should be done, OR.. if laying material inside of an enclosure will yield better results. sanding and resining can lead to human error with imperfections in the smoothness and this is why i'd like to see if there are materials out there to compensate for it. I have a large list of materials to choose from but since i cannot physically touch them and know nothing else about what all is out there.. it's hard for me to just say... That's the one, hehe. I have been looking at Acrylic based sheets and Polypropylene. The goal is to have the finest, smoothest surface possible. Weight is also an issue so i cannot build an enclosure out of it, that's why i'm looking into thin sheets or laminate based sheets.

well, the connections will be as follows- Dual or Triple tinsel Leads. 99.99% pure Copper terminal adapter insert into speaker terminals(cylinder shape for maximum contact) A small copper bar attached in between the tinsel leads and the coil inside the sub for the highest current demand possible. Yes... these subs are being custom built.

I don't know if you know this but if your interface box ever gets damaged that comes with the Termlab, that's a $300 replacement! You can buy an entire SPL-Labs kit for that! For those wondering about the comparison between this meter and the termlab, well this is what i know- I own a termlab, a Hyperdynamics and soon an SPL-Labs meter. the SPL-Labs meter was precisely calibrated to match that of the termlab! For those who own a termlab meter know that not all tlab meters meter exactly the same. some are slightly loose and some are stiff. The SPL-Labs LCD meter has a calibrator on the device so if u want to calibrate your SPL-Labs meter precisely to the competition meter around town or your buddies meter, YOU CAN! How cool is that? These meters should never require a recalibration but just for fun, you have that option.

the Hyperdynamics meter is dead on with a termlab and it refreshes a LOT quicker than a tlab does too.. So i couldnt imagine this meter not being accurate. I would heavily suggest this SPL-Lab meter though for people who actually compete.

Lol, yea down to 9v.. there was something wrong there. Will i do agree with you mostly about your point of view, i would say that adding more wire when doing the big 3 will slightly increase efficiency. It lowers the resistance across anything that may have resistance. Also, it prevents wire from heating up due to excessive use which also causes resistance buildup. Of course the wiring is sufficient but it can always be better. Just like i can guarantee i could run a sundown 3000d off of 1 single 4awg wire 17ft long without failure. The wire would always be warm but probably not enough to melt. Adding more wire will decrease resistance to allow higher pressure = voltage potential, especially when things are under current demand.

hehe, it's a wall and the wire will be installed literally inside of the walls of the enclosure so the wire won't interfere with the air flow. So it has to run up the baffle, through the ceiling, down the back then out.

once u exceed the maximum current output capability of the alternator at any given rpm, the voltage will drop to the level of the batteries. That's just how it works. If your batteries are fully charged then it will drop to 13.0-13.2v. It is at this level where when left there under heavy load... any continual drop from here is just eating up those batteries.

Honestly, a single D3100 should handle 2 of those amps but it all depends on how much reserve u need. statistically speaking- the more reserve you need, the more ear plugs you will need