shizzzon

when i had all 6 of my amps in, i kept the gains maxed out and just used a PAC Audio gain controller to control all of them. Now.. u can set the LPF by ear but the subsonic is gonna be tricky... Try this- Can u put the box in ur back seat area? If u can, set the subsonic then. Subs will unload quicker when they are out in the open, even in a box, vs being sealed up in a trunk so u cant just lay them out in the driveway and do it... You'd be setting the subsonic too high.

Save it and just keep on saving. I only spend money when i need to, not when i want to.

it saves it for my bank and other financial accounts too... I guess i'm just special, lol.

um.. i use firefox and it fills in my password after i choose my screenname on every forum and every other site i go to.

Who HAS already paid- harveywong - USB/LCD Meter davidt487- USB Meter john denver - USB/LCD Meter bwoodroof - USB Meter B-chi - USB/LCD Meter 1loudsvt - USB/LCD Meter Awaiting 12 payments. Just a side note. Hopefully everybody keeps their accounts up to date... I am shipping everybody's order according to where their paying account currently says they reside at. If your account is wrong, you will need to update it by the time I ship them out and notify me of it!

no, he just uses concrete, period! Just with any form of build with a goal toward highest pressure possible.. there are things u sometimes have to sacrifice to compensate for other things.... If you use concrete poured between walls, you MUST reinforce the outer box\wall with steel\angle iron and anchor it to the car on ALL sides. If you choose to use concrete.. look at how heavy it will be... an 80lb of concrete typically only fills 0.6cuft... add that weight on top of water mixed with it.... Concrete must be at least 2" thick or it will\may crack. If using concrete, let cure for 7days minimum, 28 days for full cure. Alternative to concrete and other variations that equal the same weight displacement- Multi layers of wood reinforced with steel\angle iron. I believe what M5 is referring to is if the box is SOOOO rigid, it's resonance may so high in the box that it may negatively effect the pressure inside the car based upon the vehicle's resonance. I've been doin some research on concrete for daily drivers... it's only likely to work if it's a non-walled, small box to medium sized box. You would more than likely need air ride AND your drivetrain and engine must be capable of hauling this weight... For daily drivers, it's more practical to use wood and steel if your car can support the weight.

Check your mailbox people! All payment requests have now been sent out. Once everybody has paid, the order will be processed. I will let everybody know when they are on there way to the US. At this time, it is looking like 1-2 weeks of build time since some meters have ran out of stock because all you guys just love you some meters, hehe. If all goes well soon... I'll start keeping them in stock in the US... but that will be later... This thread isn't about that...

All international orders outside of the US will have their shipping prices dropped. Previous international charge was $55 added to group buy pricing... New price is $40 added to group buy price saving $15! Pricing will NOT GO UP! Pricing is set exactly how it was originally planned. Everybody will be contacted to pay between now and Friday. Congratulations everybody who got in the group buy! If you have any questions about the equipment once you receive it, just contact me.

If anybody else wants in... now is the time. The only meters left in the group buy at this time are the normal USB meters via laptops. We have 5 left if anyone wants their hands on one before tonight is over... Pricing is currently being finalized so i won't be on here for a while.

no worries, we got a few extra of those anyway commin so u r in!

EVERYBODY, LISTEN UP! Everyone that is in the group buy right now will be receiving PM's between 5-26-10 - 5-28-10 with your payment destination and exact amount to pay. I will have the official pricing by then... pricing shouldn't change since most of u all ordered the same thing. In the future... we will be stocking these in America so there will be less of a hassle.

hey KU40- i've ran 1100A of current through 320A of fusing for about 1.5 seconds before the fuses blew but was long enough to get the score i needed. From what i've seen, Mini-ANL fuses can handle up to 3.5x their rating continuously for about 2 seconds. AGU fuses can handle 2x their rating continuously for about 6-8 seconds. When going above 2x their rating.. they start to go pretty quick! I have yet to test ANLs.

And a lens that can resolve 2MP. Ridiculous to put so much marketing into something so useless. They do have the capability to record at a real 30fps finally. Ever since my real video camera broke a few yrs ago, i've been waiting for a phone strong enough to do this... I never did any serious recording but 10fps is pure terrible. At the end of this year Samsung is going to be releasing the Galaxy which records in 720p @30fps.

we got a SA-12 in a buddy of mine's scion tc tuned at 40-41hz for daily and it sounds great. The natural peak inside the hatch will be 42-43hz. When i use to do a design in my hatch, i tuned to 38hz on a pair of hdc3s and it sounded great too. What i'm saying is you might want to tune in the high 30s in the back of this car. Box design alone doesn't account for where it sounds great at. We've also seen this in some trucks too but that's another story.

i know the difference in XS Power is the racing batts are lighter and not as strong.

i'd go 5702V to save money.. If u like full color remotes, get the 5902v but it's $200 more. Also, u gotta purchase all sensors and extra alarms and bulletproof laminate sheeting separate. My security system is well over $1,000, it's around $1,400.

Viper security with dual shock, internal proximity, tilt sensor, 2way radio, internal battery, dual external siren, multi internal siren.. bulletproof laminate sheeting. need i say more?

yea, u really don't require aH for pretty much anything really unless u run the battery for long periods of time without a charge going to it. MA- for comp burps CA- for bassrace\driveby other musical averages. CCA- same as above for colder climate aH\RC- measured on low current draw over long periods of time without a charge. Little tip... when comparing 2 batteries of like size, if the aH ratings are different but are the same group size... then u will witness the following- When you have 1 battery that has higher aH than another of the same group size, it's MA rating will be lower... So you have to choose what you will use the battery most for so u get the best choice.. Bigger aH and lower MA = best for daily driving Lower aH and higher MA= best for competition burps and 30sec averages Now, don't get me wrong, big aH can still be used in the lanes and lower aH can still be used on daily just fine but best choice will provide the longest run with the highest voltage level possible before the battery is completely dead.

SSA Forum - * Bigrank916 - USB/LCD Meter * oscar r - USB Pro Meter * SexySoundLab - USB Meter * power-fanatic07 - USB/LCD Meter * john denver - USB/LCD Meter * B-chi - USB/LCD Meter * nsuvltr - USB/LCD Meter * 1loudsvt - USB/LCD Meter * harveywong - USB/LCD Meter Other Forums - * 01SpyderDb23 - USB Meter * 90TalonTSi - USB Meter * original iceman(UK) - USB/LCD Meter ROE Forums - * lifesfordeath - USB/LCD Meter * bwoodroof - USB Meter CA Forums - * audio_phill - RTA with enlarged bandwidth to 10hz-22khz CACO Forums- * Team Aftermath - Robert - USB/LCD Meter Other Locations- * D.A.G. - USB/LCD Meter Total - 17 Can we get to 25 for the ultimate discount? Please know that the group buy is about to end soon so be sure to have the money ready. Only 2 Days left. 8 more people to enter to get the next discount...

A friend of mine who is new to car audio unplugged his hifonics amp and didnt know to remove the connection to the battery when plugging it back up. He hooked the ground up first then he hooked up the power, it started arc welding inside and he removed it. I got over there and removed the fuse, hooked the wires up then when i put the fuse in, the fuse blew immediately. So i assumed he blew the power supply since the stereo wasn't on. He uses one of those devices to convert speaker outputs from stock headunit into rcas. So i put my amp in there and everything was fine. When i took my amp out, we decided to hook the amp up again.. if the fuse blew again... then we knew is was done for... Well, i hooked up pwoer\ground and remote only, placed fuse in and it didnt blow! So i then took the fuse out, hooked up speaker wire only and placed fuse back in, still didnt blow! I was currently jumping the remote wire over to power so the amp was on at this point. So while car and stereo still off but amp still on, i told him to plug up rcas then turn on stereo. As soon as he plugs rcas in, the amp generated a constant test tone... He pulled the rcas immediately. I took a multimeter, one probe on amp's ground, other probe inside rca. Testing resistance, read nothing. I then touched the outer shield of the rca... As soon as i did this, the amp SURGED and send a LOUD BOOM through the speaker... I don't know what to think from that so was wondering what could cause this?

Really.. well tell him this since this is taken directly from IASCA- any commercially available CD that contains musical tracks or test tone tracks can be used to compete at Single Point (SPE) events. The official IASCA “Max dB2” CD is the required judging software at DPE (Double Point Event) or TKE (Territorial Key Event) events. That means if they have to supply the disc, THEY MUST let you know what the disc(s) is\are so you can find out what song you would like to use so u can tune for it.

How bout this- Executed by 4 Death Penalties

??? no it's not. In MECA, ALL classes except Radical(which is on the dash) can be measured on the driver side headrest. It is the user's choice and experience to know what side of their car is louder. also, in Amateur Street, you can ONLY measure on the driver side headrest. I tell people alot that no one can compare one sanction's scores to MECA because MECA measures in reality SPL and is a LOT harder to get loud. so when you see someone doin mid 50s on the dash... don't be surprised if they can barely surpass a 50 at the headrest since that's where all the "demos" are done u see online. What many people think they are hearing isn't as loud as you think Even though i could only do a max of a 153.4 at the head, i was easily breaking 157s in the kick. The windshield isn't too far off from the kick but since windshield's note is a LOT higher than that at the headrest, it's easier to get loud there.

nah, if i knew the song, i could help u retune your setup to peak at these songs

3 more days until the deadline!