shizzzon

i know i thought about it.. but at the same time, if the pricing was gonna go up... i didnt want to tell everybody, hey guess what... you need to pay more... Now, i'm still letting this group buy go on and on so the set pricing is the same... I'm doing everything i can to prevent the price from going up.

because the pricing wasnt finalized. That was expected too. The meters are new to being imported in bulk here and I needed a set figure for a finalized quote. Now since me and the company know how we are going to do business, it wont be like this in the future.

in my class it is

If you have really spent a lot of time tuning then i can see it being possible. Metering on the dash gets u a higher score as my sanction requires at the headrest and that's VERY hard to get loud... but some of us still can One thing i did see a bit odd though is the OP says his subs get hot even when just burping... there's something wrong there if that's true. I can burp a single DC Lvl4 rated at 1,000w on 7,000w of power and never get warm at all. Common sense says they aren't seeing that power but i can guarantee it was helluva lot of clipping and that will heat subs up quicker than anything. i'm actually making a test box fired at the mic in hopes to break 150 and higher with a single 15 for testing purposes to learn somethings about something...

I'll probably let it go for another week to week and a half. If there are not enough orders filled by then... then the group buy pricing must increase unfortunately to the lesser quantity. I know that isnt want u want to hear.. that's why i'm waiting for others to get in. I get random requests about purchasing the meters all the time... but without payment, there is no interest.

Group buy is temporarily back open... Many people are refusing to pay by trying to avoid contact with the group buy payment requests. Those of you who I have spoken too are fine but the ones who refuse to respond are assumed to be KICKED from the group buy. So, I will let the group buy continue until several more slots are filled. If you do not know how much the meters cost, refer to page 1 near the bottom. If you have any questions, contact me.

any pressure class in 1. Like AS1, S1, M1.. With 3 8s, you can run a 35A fuse with that amp. I've ran a 3000w slightly attenuated on a 40A, i've witnessed 6,000w ran on an 80A, I've pulled over 1,100A on 320A, etc.... You need an ammeter and proper tuning to get the most out of your amp with a restrictive fuse.

what works in one car may not work in another. What i do is build the largest net volume with the largest possible port area that can fit length wise in the car that will be tuned way below what your car peaks at. then from there, u just test test test by varying port length, net volume and firing direction.

Who HAS already paid- harveywong - USB/LCD Meter davidt487- USB Meter john denver - USB/LCD Meter bwoodroof - USB Meter B-chi - USB/LCD Meter 1loudsvt - USB/LCD Meter bigrank916 - USB/LCD Meter Awaiting 11 payments. Just a side note. Hopefully everybody keeps their accounts up to date... I am shipping everybody's order according to where their paying account currently says they reside at. If your account is wrong, you will need to update it by the time I ship them out and notify me of it!

I just seen this online and my mouth dropped.... It's 100 ft wide and 200ft Deep! They say when this sinkhole formed, many people have died from this storm and right where this sinkhole is, is has devoured a 3story building whole! Guess nobody will be taking that way to work anytime soon... think they should call the city and try to get this pothole fixed? lmao!

dont use kinetik or shuriken for burps. What u need is extremely LOW resistance. Xstatic Batcap XS Power Odyssey Any one of those 3 will suit u the best in my knowledge.

maybe we can FINALLY test the brown note

u need to let me know very soon OP about the status of your group buy because you will lose your place in it if you do not respond.

does anybody else find it odd that this hole is so ... you know.. near perfect from top to bottom? I figure a sinkhole would just be a caving hole that got smaller in the width the further down it went... It almost looks as if there was something there a long time ago... and somehow was paved over for years until now...

ok he gave me the pic to the box i made- Box specs are as follows- Single 15" with 12" round port! 5.5cuft NET changeable all the way down to 2.5cuft NET keeping port completely external. Displacement scale to shrink volume is in 0.21cuft increments. Box is 1.5" Baltic birch 13ply, single layered top and floor. Box is not braced whatsoever as it's a test box. If the box does decide to start flexing, i'll add either 2x4s or steel to it but i doubt i will since it wont be used for daily. The box can be tuned below 30hz with the port provided you have about 4ft of room for port and it must slide inside the box as well so my tuning ranges are VERY broad which is good for testing. This box is NOT the box i'll be using to try and get to a 160, hehe. this box is completely used to test loading areas in my car so i can measure cabin gain at different parts of the car... and play around with matching the phase of the sub and port together when it reaches the meter.... What you do not see is there will be another tube that goes on this box but not immediately... that comes later and that tube will be used to fire both the front and rear wave (hopefully in phase) directly at the mic... Tons of testing with this box.. more than likely a couple months but is not that heavy and extremely strong as it is! All joints were reinforced with construction adhesive internally and externally. I'll be using threaded rod to hold the sub in place instead of screws... screws always give me problems for some reason when holding subs. the top piece is removeable so u can displace volume at any time I want to. It is anchored with brass inserts so i do not lose the integrity of the holes that hold the top down. Basically, i'll love run tape around the whole top when testing since it's not glued down... but with brass inserts, it is bolted down. I'm gonna have to redo the back of my hatch within the next upcoming days so i can prepare to fit this thing in my car. I'll initially be testing this with 1 AQ3500d to see if i can break a 150 at the headrest. If it does considerably louder... i'll strap 2 of these amps @1ohm to the 15 i'll be using and see what happens... but that's some time away.. even if it really is efficient..

haha, u just reminded me of that family guy movie haha.. Peter kept shooting... Wait a minute... something isn't right.. hold on a sec... this isn't right... wait a minute... hold on.. Ok lets go..

also gotta remember too that it has to be in a certain frequency range too...

yea i know... isnt my choice.. my cell phone is all screwed up. My buddy took pics of it today but since i dont have his phone... dont know how long it's gonna take to show it. It's not braced anywhere.. I'm gonna run it that way and see what happens. If it needs bracing, i'll probably anchor the walls to the floor of the car.

i did forget to add that not only can the PAC controller completely disable the signal, it can also overdrive it as well. I remember in my setup, having all gains turned up, pac controller could only move about 1\4 of the way before a sine wave was clipped. On a single amp setup, the gain had to be set about 65% up on the same volume level... Now, this was partially low voltage problem too but the controller can overdrive the signal for comp use... For safety reasons.. u can set the amp's gains to half if u want... u can still overdrive it some for quick spurts... but not intended for continuous use.

I got a test box i'll be finishin up in a couple of days for a single 15. I'll have a buddy of mine post pics of it for me since my phone is broke. It's an interchangeable test box from 2.5cuft to 5.5cuft NET for a single 15 using a single 12" round port. It's made out of 1.5" thick Birch Plywood. It's to be used to find how and what Scion tCs load at in the car for cabin gain purposes. I think i have a buyer for the box once it's done being used but it'll be interesting to see what i find and how loud it gets. Tuning for this box can be dropped al the way down to 30hz provided you have 3ft of port room outside the box,

One of new friends that hangs out with is at meetups isnt old enough to drive yet but is gettin into car audio pretty good... the other day his mom was driving him home from somewhere and he calls me up- He goes hey man, i'm commin over... I go why? He says so i can give u some money for that sub i'm buyin off of you. I go oh ok, that's cool. So, how far away are you? He said- I just passed Hooters so bout 5 minutes... I say - Um... u just passed a place with half naked girls so u think of me? that's not a good sign man.. He started rollin and said.. Oh wait.. i just passed Circuit City so it's all good now.

U know you've had plenty... Been hangin out with ur friends or teammates just socializin and every now and then... someone will say somethin that can be taken WAY out of context... Well, i like to do that alot to people, hehe, many on here knows that if u leave yourself open for a joke, i'm gonna nail u for it. So, what kinda joke scenarios u got? I wanna see if i can find some good ones, hehe. I'll tell ya some of mine. haha, oh the days... hehe, i love this one- Story #1- So i was at my buddy's house foolin around with his box and stereo tryin to get it loud one time for a show commin up. After a while, i got tired of messin with the box and i started foolin with the stereo because the damn cd player kept outputting noise through the rcas... So i pull the headunit out and notice the Sub amp's rcas are ran into the Rear output? I tell him.. what the hell r u doin? He knew he did it but not until after everythign was installed so he just said screw it at the time and kept it that way... I go dude.. lets run them into the sub out so we have full control over the sub output setting on the head unit so we can get ur head unit and amp setup just right.. He said ok.. Well, when we switched it over. something Really bad and weird happened and killed his sub and some strange signal problem happened at the same time... At the time we didnt know why it happened but we had to leave to go to a buddies house and look at their setup for a show too so we left with no bass So while we are over there just talkin for a while... one of our buddies asked how his install was commin along... I just rolled my eyes cuz i was pissed at what just happened for no apparent reason. My buddy smiled and said straight to me( everybody else heard him as plain as day)- I shouldnt have listened to you.. I liked it better in the REAR! U can imagine the impression they got when they heard that.... Um.. no no no.. he means preouts...

i dont run sundown mono amps so i wouldnt know. What i do know is that since u got 2 amps, u would need to control BOTH controllers. With a PAC Audio controller, it controls the rcas so u can have 1,000,000,000,000,000 bass amps in the car and that single controller can still control all of them.

yep, u can just set it to max if u want. The controller controls the preout voltage in the rcas.. Unlike typical controllers that come with amps, these controllers when turned all the way down, will completely disable bass so u got plenty of "bandwidth" to play with on these things. Just remember for example sake- Let's say ur amp started clipping half way up at a certain volume level... When u set your gains to max, it would reach clipping at the same point on the controller or very close to it. Just think of it this way- when u set your gains on your amp to max, the remote gain controller is your "Master Gain" at the driver seat. I typically have mine almost all the way down so i dont get headaches from all the 150s goin around in the car, hehe.

PAC LC1 - Amplifier (Bass / Level) Remotes - Sonic Electronix