shizzzon

u already doin it wrong... DC Power or there will be no build log.... You need customization and mod support for your electrical system. trust me. For a tahoe, i'm pretty sure their 350xps work on your ride. If you're set on 3 alts, that's over 1000A @1800rpm. You could even go higher and run at 18v with a VCM. Oh.. and the new xp line has dual rectifiers and a temperature monitoring system in them so there's no reason not to go with them.

it sounds like your brief planning you have stated is the way to do it. Just remember even though u've said nothing about it.. do NOT plan to run anything equipment-wise until the strengthening of the vehicle is complete. Plans change when volume changes so don't want to see you waste money on buying things that could have been a bad choice. I am willing to help you but only on things you already have planned out. I'm not gonna provide help from the ground up because i could point you in the wrong direction if you know what i mean.

it doesnt take an enormous of "extra equipment" to do a 175 on music vs a high 70 for a burp... it's somewhat the same. the thing is.. when u start to reach that high, it's not about what you are running or how many of it you are running but how strong is your car? IF that vehicle flexes the tiniest little bit, that's a big loss of pressure. Once the vehicle is completely secured, then equipment choices can be made. That's why the A-team's extreme vehicle can do 154s with a single 15 off a clamped power of less than 40w! Yes 40w. If you aren't that efficient, don't even try. They burped a single 15 up to a high 177 so peaking on a song in that vehicle with 1 15 is possible as long as you don't mechanically destroy it in the process.

i can tell u this.. the only logical way to do it is a non-driveable vehicle. You have to be doin close to a 177 to peak at a 175 anyway so you will be pushing near the loudest scores ever recorded, u think u can just jump into it and go? I dont discourage anyone from trying to do their dream score but if i am not mistaken.. u better have a cement truck come over when u buildin... or better yet, just build the install in the cement truck. Also... u better be MINIMALLY dual bracing your windshield which will make it street-illegal even if u had a strong enough engine to pull 10,000lbs plus...

what type of setup you doin? 6th order would be nasty...

no DHL is the worst.. that's why they aren't around here anymore... Every time they would stop by my work, their whole truck looked like it was just wrecked inside, literally. Stuff thrown everywhere. I was so embarrassed just to see the inside of their truck, at times i wanted to refuse packages from them even though it wasn't damaged.

i want to break a 150 and higher with this single 15. that may take another month of testing but i know it's possible.

Ok back on track... just got back from starting initial testing of the port. I'm starting with the box at 4.0cuft net which is the lowest output score and is easier for me to test the port with because once it peaks at 43hz, i'll add another 0.5cuft to the box.. this will lower tuning so i'll have to cut more off the port So, 4.0cuft using a 12" sonotube 48" long did a 143.8 peaking at 41hz. I cut 3" off the port and it went up to a 144.0db @41hz. I cut 3 more inches off the port and it went up to a 144.25db still @41hz. Surprisingly, i have gained almost 0.5db and i'm still peaking at 41hz. It's interesting because that means i need to cut a LOT of port off by the time i make the box 5.5cuft again. And with it steadily increasing 0.2db every time i cut 3" off.. i still have 42" of port left, hehe. I'm gonna see how loud it gets in 4.0cuft @43hz this week for sure before i add another 0.5cuft to the box.

Anybody inquiring about buying some meters after the group buy needs to do so SOON. Many requests from all over is preparing to order and once i run out of stock... it will be a while before i replenish them. Hove, i already know about you...

apparently i gotta watch what i say when jokin around with the cameraman

Can you clarify somethings for me so i know for sure who is determined the winner? For overall points champion.. Is this the Most points an individual has in one pressure class or ALL of a user's points combined in all classes he competed in that season? And 2nd, If a user came in 2nd overall points(however that is determined as requested above) but the person came in 1st was not using XS batteries... 2nd place user is considered the winner, correct? And one more question... I run in MECA and there is no stats page like there is in DbDrag. All it shows is points accumulated overall season and per show... So, let's say for me, I just have to register, use XS batts in car, have decal on car and keep XS Power in my sig and i'm qualified?

well, here is an update to some testing so far in my test box. I tore my wall out so i can start from scratch and re-test EVERYTHING so i can get real loud So far i've been testing box volume sizes for a DC Lvl4 15. the testing was done as follows- Box volume changed in 0.5cuft increments while maintaining the same port area and length. the pressure levels do NOT reflect tuning of the port in anyway but shows a gain or drop via volume change. Each change in volume, pressure was measured at the port's peak note since it changes with box volume. This test was ran off of an AQ3500d. @4.0cuft 143.8 - 41hz @4.5cuft 144.3 - 39hz @5.0cuft 144.8 - 37hz @5.5cuft 146.3 - 35hz Notice how every additional 0.5cuft gain i did, i also gained 0.5db.... until i got to 5.5cuft... I gained 1.5db goin from 5-5.5cuft. Now, at 3500w and 5.5cuft, the sub was repeatedly bottoming out so it can't handle this much or more power in that size. but goin from 4cuft to 5.5cuft, i gained 2.5db! Car's peak is 43hz right now so that didn't influence the high score on a low peak. I will now be testing port tuning with box volume changes so this will take a while. I have been doin some calculations and some talkin to a few people about doing a new test box after i'm done with this to test something VERY interesting.... I won't go into details about what it is and how efficient it is but if it is successful which i'm pretty sure it will be, here is a sneak peek of a design that could be VERY effective in using these methods of obtaining high pressure in my car- I will not be going into detail about the pic either... just eye candy

a tline is where the entire internal area remains the same throughout the opening. It would appear that the port area IS the box volume and vice versa. Look it up, there are formulas for you to use to make a tline for real if u wanted to. The port area opening must remain the same throughout the box and the opening is close to the SD value of the sub.

my buddy lives on the corner of kenwood and alpine

before getting a new alt put on, charge all your batts up prior to installation so u don't burn it up.

u could get stencils made so u could paint it on there.

no i do not. It shouldnt be more than 2 weeks so if i get them before 2 weeks.. then that's great!

Meters are due to be shipped out of Russia the beginning of next week. Once they get here, everybody will be getting delivery confirmation tracking numbers so you have proof they are sent and delivered. All packages are insured for the price you paid.

no, just the one u gave me before i left. It just vanished...

after the first 2 cuts, they start charging, or at least Lowes does. It's pocket change per extra cut.

he probably means his sub box is sealed firing up.

i'll have another update by the end of this week.. hopefully even better news but wont know til later on this week.

is this by ear or on a meter.. that's a big difference

ap1800 is more user friendly. the Ap1500 has downward angled power\ground connectors and many users i've dealt with don't like them.

You beat me to it, hehe. the order just got finalized today and the meters will be here in the states within 3 weeks. I will notify everyone with tracking numbers and all packages will be fully insured.