shizzzon

lol, it is serious. I'm gonna ask the guy tomorrow if that really is his real name or if that's just what he goes by.

ATTENTION TO THOSE WHO BOUGHT METERS- I have been doing some testing to see if i can discover any problems that users may come across and i have so please read below even if you do not think you are effected! USB Meter- This is the meter that runs off of a laptop. IF you are using WinVista or Win7, your readings may be VERY HIGH or it may be uncalibrated. There is a fix in the works right now! If you are victim of this, please PM me so i can send you the fix once it's sent to me. LCD Meter- This is the handheld device that requires no laptop. The noise floor on this device can reach at, over 120 and possibly over 130dbs before it starts to read anything IF AND ONLY IF you are using the 12v adapter WHILE the car is running! The internal power supply was not meant to be ran like this and is accepting interference which will elevate the noise floor considerably! If you are measuring pressure above the noise floor, readouts are pretty much dead on the TL, BUT some variances can cause the calibration to be off 0.1-0.3db! It will not hurt the handheld device if you are using the adapter even at 15.1v(car on) but it may not be completely accurate as stated above. The worst i've seen it go is 0.3db off from TL readout. Solution- either use the adapter with car off or just use 2 AA batteries instead if you need utmost precision. The company is currently looking into it but is doubtful if current models will be fixed unless a new car adapter can fix the issue. Best bet for utmost guaranteed precision is to use batteries.

oh i understand that, it's happened to me too, but the screws used to hold down wire in these blocks are not that small! Plus u have the option of course or fine thread as well...

actually, a flat base is all you need. Aftermarket connectors are made like that and never had a problem. The problem with tapping out a hole for the amp's screw is the hole has to be 100% vertical, better hope u never break the screw off inside the input block, and most importantly- if everything was done right, the screw would pull the block up which would loose partial contact from inside the hole. AND... if the hole isn't drill 1000% perfect, the cylinder may not even be all the way back inside the hole either when a screw is ran down into it... So, it's better to not do that.

i dislike philips. The sole purpose of the reason why these became popular is to get the most current\voltage to the amp as possible. so overkill scenarios only for competition. In competition, you must also torq down the HELL out of screws\bolts to make sure the current transfer is at it's highest point. You can't torq down philips screws like that.. You can with allen heads though. I only prefer High Torq Fine threaded allens with tools. And i dont see the purpose of putting a hole on it for probes.... A probe will read any part of it.. it's conductive.

that is a GREAT score for that class! 3 15s, no more than 340A of fusing to do that.

maybe that's why rob got injured... attack of the companies!

i take it there is no onboard fusing? What would ideal recommended fusing be.. 200A probably? You aren't by any chance making this 18v capable are you?

i do when runnin over 30kw

Welcome to another one of my terrible videos... Just bought a new Mitsubishi HC3800 1080p Projector so all my buddies can get together on the weekend and play games on it outside. Here is a terrible video of it-

what amp(s) was he using for the Deltas? i've been lookin for some amps for such install and the only two i've found are the following- US amps XT 1600.2 2v3 - ~400w@8ohm dynamic Alphasonik PCA1000HCE - ~900w@8ohm rms

yes but according to those who cracked it, they must have came a long way since the late 90s when i first experimented with them... i guess because pcs are so fast now compared to then.. then of course even if i made a 300 character password with PGP encryption... If you have a license to use the software that allows the use of a video card to mathematically decrypt any encryption 100s of times faster.... encryption is pointless then.

well lesson learned on ssa... i got to watch who's lurkin on these forums

i'm completely lost on curve. I was playin with curved material throwing an image on it and it was all distorted.. I wanted to build a dome in the room but due to my lack of knowledge.. i don't know how to pull it off so just a flat screen. that screen link u posted was the first site i ever go to bout projectors, hehe, already read that article.

anybody care to enlighten the 2 choices for a custom area to project on inside the house? My screen size will be approximately 122" diagonal. 4ft vertical and 9ft 4in horizontal. I just got the projector and havent even messed with settings yet. the projected size just listed is with no video source turned on so aspect ratio may actually change with widescreen video played... haven't tried yet.

well basically a diy screen like i mentioned would just be super white photo type paper photographers use in the background with a non-reflective black border(not painted) vs this goo paint that this company claims has spent yrs perfecting it's properities They want almost $200 for the paint.

lookin for some competitors who have some experience with 4th orders so i can get a glimpse on starting on my own testing efficiently

it could be just straight clipping led to failure. Clipping is when trying to push a signal past it's normal capability. This will generate lots of heat once u enter into clipping. clipping is typically caused from turning the gain on the amp too high, having the volume on head unit higher than what the amp was setup at, dropping voltage way down low... For a professional installation, they should have at least told you where they set your amp up at volume-wise on the headunit. If they only set it up with volume halfway... that could be a big problem and even then... if they did it right! Don't blame yourself yet because you are knew to this but some things you should acquire if u choose to stay in car audio is some troubleshooting and installation tools- DMM - digital multimeter O-scope - oscilloscope. Velleman makes some good portable ones like the HPS10. This is used to fine tune an amp to prevent such scenarios from happening. Just with a dmm, u can troubleshoot almost anything car audio related. The o-scope is primarily to safely setup your amps to their maximum potential. It's expensive compared to a DMM but ever since i bought mine, i never damaged a speaker since.

well let's find out why it died. Was it stinking when it went out? if it was, you had the gain on the amp set too high for the volume level of the stereo that it was on when it happened. No smell? Push slowly down on the cone dispersing even pressure by using 2 hands around the dustcap. Do you feel or hear any rubbing sound? You could have had the sub moving too much. Your subsonic filter may not have been up high enough for the box it was in.

u got any jumper cables? Quick test is to take one clamp and hook it to your amp's ground location. Take the other end of that cable and hook it up to your battery's negative terminal See if that fixes it.. if it doesn't, it's not your ground which would point toward signal cable location.

did u wire the sub in series just for the rockford amp or was it wired that way on the other amp too?

it's gotta be a custom screen. I like to build stuff myself. I can't really find reviews of goo paint vs using Super-white photo background sheeting.

then keep it and distribute it... email me @ [email protected] and i'll give u the password

doc has been re-encrypted... If you claim to decrypt this one... i will use alternative encryption methods which will involve more than one code.

if your pc skills prove to be successful... the next updated version of this doc will be over 100 characters long...