shizzzon

same here. My last several builds all broke screw heads and snapped the shafts inside the baffle. What u need to do is use bolts. Get u some t-nuts or hurricane nuts. Oh.. and we are assuming u predrilled the mounting holes, right?

u shouldnt mix an optima with any other battery for one. 2nd, you shouldnt mix battery brands either. If u wanna do that, get a solenoid to prolong their life.

when u try to post a picture and it says "posted image", that means u used the wrong code to post it here. Log back in, copy the DIRECT LINK url and click the image button up top and paste that url in there.

get an OE Denso regulator

IF u want to do that, keep the car on or the bass completely off. I remember workin on my car before with 180ah of XS batts fully charged. I would have the stereo on vol 7 (vol 31 is my burp level) I would have the bass barely on so i wasnt annoying anybody. After about 1hr of constantly playing, my voltage level would be at 12.2-12.3v from 13.1v! So not keeping the batts charged while in use isn't a good idea. I'm not sayin Oh No, ur battery is dying... but do this- The next day you drive, drive your normal runs like u normally would, WITHOUT the stereo on ever... Come back and tell us what the battery reads before u start it up the next day. Testing it as soon as u shut it off is a pointless reading because as long as your alt is working which it clearly shows it is, the surface charge on the batt will be present exhibiting a level on the batt that isn't really there in terms of comparing current charged level. You must wait several hrs for it to go away to get an actual reading.. Either that, or put a load on the battery to kill the surface charge... but better to just measure it before u drive again(the next day)

i thought a t-line had no real chamber compared to what i see in that pic.. also, i thought a t-line has to keep the port width the same throughout the entire box... And... tuning in the 30s would require what? 7-8ft long run?

in my opinion, if it's ever at 12.5v or lower, the battery needed more time to charge back up before shutting it down because u were jamming on it to loud for too long.

i will add u might want to add some dowels inside for bracing since u are only using single layered wood for such a large box if u are worried about displacement, u can make the port 30" long to compensate or keep it the same length to tune at 33hz Dowels take up VERY little displacement. 1" in diameter is plenty. Example- 1" diameter at 37" long - displacement is 0.017cuft for just 1!

i just checked and u are right!

i know ///m5 says clipping lights are useless for music but when i used to use those lights on aq amps, running twice as much power to each sub, as long as i didnt stay in the clipping zone, AQ or DC subs could take 2kw wired load all day long without getting smelly. Now, if i left music in the clipping area where it mostly stayed red the whole time, it would take a matter of a few seconds before they would start cooking.

oh and a side note... you live in Indiana. If you have any problems about anything, get your hoosier ass down to louisville, ky Several of us can help you. There are also many people in the surrounding IN area that are fond of car audio troubleshooting as well.

what i would do is check voltage BEFORE starting it up to leave to go to work or school. You don't wanna check it after you turn it off unless u do it several hours afterwards. This will ensure u get an accurate reading. Your battery should rest either at 12.8-13.0v when fully charged. IF your battery is reading 12.5v or lower, i would be a little concerned about longevity.

when u got it on like that, take your hands and start moving them around the surround of the sub and around the box checking for air leaks.

oh yea, in that size, you will like it!

hehe, it's always a relief when you have the agreement of going back to 1 driver what exactly is this going in? and what is the internal gross volume of that box if it was NOT angled inwards? Give me numbers as if ALL sides except for top and bottom were dual layered.

find out the depth from the underside of the top ring to the bottom of the basket, then the height of the motor. Find the width of the motor and the descending width of the basket. You can then draw these measurements to see how it will fit. Note- because you are using double baffle, figure out how the sub is going to be mounted on these baffles. If it's flush mounted to the exterior baffle, then the mounting depth of the sub remains accurate. If the sub is not flush mounted, then subtract 0.75" from the mounting depth.

this is a time to get an ammeter.

that's a cool idea.

me and my cousin talked about travelin to the highest ranked ghost hotels and caves and stuff like that least year but we never did.. Wherever i would go if i did, seein somethin isnt good enough for me cuz u know dont know why u may be seein somethin... I would need some pretty hard ass proof like something pushed me down or somethin. I still think it would be fun though just to tell people that you'd been to some crazy haunted places.

not again.... have you properly gain matched your amp to ensure it's not clipping at maximum desired volume level? If your gain on your amp is maxed out and your head unit is too and you are still not clipping... then i would say yes but i highly doubt that's the case.

If someone can make a video worse than man... oh my god.... Anything is an improvement over mine. I think the only thing worse than my video is recording a MIDI, lmao.

more batteries

this might be a better approach- how much NET volume do you have for your wall right now? What's the loudest you've scored on a meter? You might be using too many subs..

if u do have voltage problems... Take a set of jumper cables and connect ground clamps only, one side to front battery, other side to rear battery ground if there is a battery back there or where the amp is grounded at. If voltage goes up.. u need a better ground or a whole run of ground. No change?, connect the power side and test. Remember- jumper cables more than likely not fused so when connecting power side, do NOT ground any end of those clamps!

Just wanted to let everyone know that purchased USB and USB Pro and RTA meters- We are currently looking into having an optional upgrade to make these meters go WIRELESS! We are both in the research and testing phase but we hope to have this successfully completed before the end of this year! Just something new to set us apart from the competition. Oh and also, anybody that also uses these meters with winvista or Win7, your calibration is wrong. You must be using vB3.0 for full compatibility. PM me for the updated software package that works with all versions of Windows.