shizzzon

Would someone be so kind to briefly walk me thru the process of how to properly secure a fiberglassed roof? Basically.. i'll take the headliner down.. build a wall in my car, then from the B pillar on forward, that will be fiberglassed, ok? this is where i get lost.... How do i attach the fiberglass mold to the vehicle so i could remove it again if i needed to?

so basically i'd remove my headliner, cover it in reynolds wrap.. lay down cloth and resin it a few times.. After that(i'm retaining the view thru my sunroof), i cut whatever i want to out of it for custom purposes for adding things up in there then just sand, paint(or wrap) and install it the same way the original was? Here is where it get's tricky- My headliner is held in via Velcro. Some locations like sunvisors and dome light, etc.. have screws ran through the stock headliner but the rest is held in with velcro. I'm assuming a fiberglassed mold will be significantly heavier than the stock headliner... What else can I use besides velcro that will still allow me to remove the headliner because i do not think velcro is strong enough.

i've got a bunch of it but i already knew of it's decreased performance capability prior to purchasing. That's why I bought so much of it because i am using it for multi run installations on everything, including amps, then cover them up with no-Ox... Something others should do with their welding cables that i never really see...

There's competition? Huh.. learn somethin new everyday

Example- dual 2 ohm sub- 2ohm - nominal load IE 1.4 ohms typical DCR value when measured on a DMM. The DCR value will always be lower than the nominal load when measured on a DMM. During play... well that changes drastically but not really necessary for this conversation. So... i'm curious how u are getting these possible load configurations... I'm assuming they are DCR but the numbers are so odd.. u must be running many coils?

internal height is 16.5", external - 18" single layered port side, top and bottom Keep port's flare edge about 3-5" from the back wall

6: Aero 18" long. 3.1cuft NET @33hz Pay close attention- The baffle, back and LEFT side are dual layered.

Oh and btw, Welcome Juggalo. I've got the Hatchet Swingin on the back of my ride.

are those DCR or nominal load values?

well, u are right there.. but due to the interference problems, we didnt want all that current to be going everywhere so fast... Plus.. people were trying to steal the current from unsecure networks and just frying their routers in the process, lol.. what a bunch of idiots.

well... as long as you do not goes "hands free" on your cell, they should charge fine. But once you go hands free, interference problems. I've heard of some problems so bad that the batteries have tried to charge cell phones and just fry them within seconds... DC for the Win!

Nope! All of DC Power's Alt's are bluetoothed to ALL batteries..... lol The copper stud that sticks out of the alt, that's the charging post.

buddy of mine has already tested a 9518 and an 18" BTL on 2 sundown 3ks strapped @1ohm in ~5.5cubes net. They both do exactly the same burp score but on lower power, the BTL is more efficient.

just lettin u know Kyle that i am still around.. I haven't talked to ya in a while about the alt for the scion because i am currently not in the direct need for one right now but i will be contacting u guys hopefully by the end of the year. Don't forget.. i already prepaid half a year ago for part of one, lol.

Hove is in detroit i believe

are we trying to debate the differences between density vs rigidity? I've been told it's best for competition to make an enclosure more rigid than dense. Of course, i got no explanation as to why... However.. depending on how rigid an enclosure is and how it's attached, wouldn't it make the material inside the box more dense anyway? Example- 2 layers of mdf for all 6 sides. On the outside, 1 layer of 2x4s on all 6 sides. Now, this won't really make the box rigid unless the 2x4s are anchored but it would make the enclosure more dense... so if the 2x4s were anchored.. it would be both more dense and rigid.. correct? I've seen installs where users have poured concrete in between their walls and side of the vehicle to fill any empty voids so the wall is physically part of the vehicle now and well installed, hehe. Let's look at NDMStang's steel cage for his truck... That's gonna make any design rigid as hell... but i do not assume it will do terrible... I may understand part of what you guys are saying... If the resonance of the box continues to increase internally but the resonance of the car remains the same, their can\will be a loss of output? is this what you are referring to? If this is true, then wouldnt just retuning the port help a lot more? Seriously, when building a wall, you can't build it, test it, then add external bracing later on... It wouldnt be a real wall or reliable bracing. So we basically just build it as large as possible, well built n braced with some trickery calculations on how it's built then do port testing, car testing and box testing.

can i get a link to the testing specs of the 200.4

Maybe i dont follow M5's advice? A really well built enclosure will not be as loud as a poorly built. Disregarding typical builds... A design made out of 4" thick concrete on all 6 sides vs a single layered box out of mdf will yield lower pressure output because of it's high resonance? Is this what you are implying, similar scenario? This is completely the opposite from what most of us competitors do.. We brace and brace and brace the box and the car to make it solid as a rock.. and the numbers go way up. I think i need a new elaboration.

Zoom into the graph. the closer u are, the more precise the reading. Select the area (23sec or less of the song, the shorter the selection, the more accurate) that u wish to find peak of. Analyze --> Plot Spectrum Change 512 to 16384 Change Linear to Log frequency move mouse cursor over graph. focus on maximum db readout. Sometimes, it will find the peak note within a small range for you accurately.

when u say u put the original batt back in and it ran rough for a few then leveld out... Possible your original batt was LOW and the alt was at full output charging it back up?

what's the song? When playing a tone, the meter can only read one note as that will be the peak frequency... Now, in a song, with multiple frequencies, whichever is the loudest in the cabin, that is the peak in the car. You will not ever see yourself playing a 40hz tone and the meter read something like 48hz... There is no 48hz material in the tone. Now, when playing a sweep, the meter will pickup the loudest note out of the whole sweep.. same thing with a song.

u dont want the most expensive plywood, hehe. Marine ply is the most i've seen . $265 per sheet @0.75in thick. Good luck with that... Since we are on the subject of wood choices... I've been using Birch for a little bit because it's only $7 more a sheet than MDF is. I will be chasing tenths on the meter and had planned on using Hardwood for my next build. Anyone have any criticism on this? I'm assuming Hardwood is gonna be more dense and i assume weigh more than MDF(and Birch). It's $48 a sheet here. I would like to try Oak but it's too much for my tastes right now. $66 per sheet here.

also, do u have any belt squeal? make sure that thing is still on there good.

check each batt individually several hrs after vehicle was last turned off for accurate rest level. either one or more of ur batts is REALLY low or u may have burned a diode out in the alt.

that's just because it's a jeep