shizzzon

u can go to www.the12volt.com or www.bcae1.com and read up.

single sub should excel over 2 subs n that space even if powered by same power.

the lvl5 10 may be too wide due to the bracket. IF anything DC, i'd vote Level 4 XL-SPL motored. That way u can run all the power u want to.

start by removing one speaker out of the door at a time and playing. Sounds like at least one of your speakers is grounding out on the frame.

just check fuse for alt turn on. Also, i'd only recommend removing remote turn on if stereo still doesnt turn on after ensuring the ground is secured. I would get a dmm and check 12v constant on to make sure it's there at the headunit Also, check the ignition wire too once key is turned over to make sure that wire is reading right too.

i forgot to say why... Replace alt fuse ONLY if it's popped. If it is u replace with higher because typical HO alts pull more exciter current.or whatever it's called.

check your alt to see if it's putting out anything. If it's not, pop fuse box and check alt fuse turn on fuse. It should be around 10A or less Replace this with a 15A fuse Next, check ground on headunit and also remove the turn onlead from the stereo if it still doesnt turn on to see if that helps.

actually, my agm charger has gone over 16v before but it does it to excite the battery. If it's REALLY cold outside or discharged bout 30% or more, it will raise it's voltage between 15.7-16.5v for just a few seconds then drop back to 14.7v solid til it's done. It's nothing to worry about. I've done that for a whole year and the batts have never got warm or warped or anything abnormal and still read 13.16v when fully charged.

well, u arent gonna gain 8db, lol.. i cant even picture what u are saying. Anyways, r u sure u are peaking and tuned properly for your current wall? Can you wire any lower than what u are for a burp? Have u tried? only thing i can think of right now is put your hands on the wall, around it, and see if u can feel it vibrating of flexing. If it is, Anchor it to the vehicle to reduce flex. It's usually best to do this WHILE building the wall but if u can pull it off now.. it may help. Also, if u make it pretty stiff, you may need to retune as it may increase your peak...

u can't compare the Lvl 5 unless you were running more ower to it than that. Power like that goes well with the Lvl4XL. If u wanted an edge out of the XL or 5, you can get the SPL motor. you won't tell an audible difference between the stock and SPL motor but it will relieve your electrical system from pulling as much current. didn't know a motor could help with that huh? When comparing to stock vs spl motor on a 24,000w test, the SPL motor pulled 40% less power than the stock motor did. It gained 0.4db too but you will never hear that increase.

hey, contact MAc n Cheese or Hove on here. They from your state. See what they ca do for ya.

it's not hitting? Maybe because the stereo isn't on? You better make a vid or elaborate more on it's not hitting.

that's ridiculous. Those subs require too much volume for what's out there. Now, if you already have it, then great but, hehe, an 18 can fill the same box as this sub can.

show me where it says 6cuft sealed for 1 15" L7... That sounds extremely too big.

OH ok.. now i see where you're commin from I'm thinkin on a different level.. i wasnt comparin it to a cheaper priced sub.. nvm.

whereas we shouldnt be focused on how much the sub is receiving literally, are you implying that in that example if one were to take a sub of like specs with less rise that it would get louder? I'm just curious because even you stated (even though it may not have been a complete fair comparison) that your Mayhem's were a lot louder and assumed higher rise at the same time. Simply, just fill me in as to why you are making it a point about the low power consumption of very high rise drivers... From what i've seen, really efficient motor designs have these side effects. I'm not a sub builder so i do not know why. I've seen DC Soundlab comparison tests with stock vs SPL motor and was pleased to see an increase in pressure with 40% less power draw.

so... nasty impedance rise lowers stress on electrical system. IF it can still play just as loud with less power received, that's great for a high power setup.

I understand the purpose of this sub is to be a high powered brutal daily beat sub... I've been tryin to find some info on usage of this sub and have failed so i come to ask questions. What is the potential of this sub to be used for burps? Because of it's coil size, this is the main thing that has attracted me. I plan on using no less than 7kw to each driver for daily and up to 13kw for burps if i feel like it. So, what would my options be? Can a custom designed sub from Fi be better suited for my needs or can the S.M.D. sub actually conquer my vision and excel over many other subs out there for burps?

Actually, i have read about an SG motor based BTL. did I say that right? And you are right, Fi's Neo i'm sure will be set far apart from the competition. When the time comes.. i will have to make a decision at what's available then.

like a said before, we don't ship because they are picked up in bulk. We have nothing to ship them in and possibly will get damaged if we did.

then somebody's wrong. I was running 21kw on stock alt. The word support is wrong terminology to use. If you want facts about people's installs, better ask the source than relayed information

the steel forms are on both sides of the car right now. ALL space behind the steel will be filled with 5" of wood. the steel is to help form a shape for the wall. There will be another layer of 2x4s in front of the steel before the actual wood is laid for the wall. So.. this will be one helluva thick wall!

here u go, fixed it above too-

i got some better ones commin, just a moment

sorry.. here all the way or nothing.