shizzzon

I do need to add onto this though as i feel i left a gaping hole in this rant... If your voltage is ALWAYS dropping to 13v or lower or even worse, stays there during jammin.. STOP DOING THAT. The alternator can get killed by doing that. this is what i would do in this case- go buy a True RMS Ammeter. Set car at idle(park), blast it for a few seconds and record maximum current out at idle from alternator. This is a number u never wish to see again If u feel u do not have enough alt power.. periodically check current output levels when in park to make sure your alt is not maxed out in park when stereo is off. this is too ensure that the alt is not being overworked to maintain batteries. Again.. if voltage is always dropping to 13v or lower.. I WOULD recommend either upgrading alt or turn the volume DOWN.. alt failure can and will happen eventually... if prolonged

i would not recommend using an isolator even for it's intended purpose.. Because of voltage drop... how is the alt going to efficiently charge the rear battery? It won't.... Also, a SOLENOID isn't needed in your scenario either. For your "added protection" in case one battery dies.. how? Give me an example as to how you may think this might happen? They are both installed and age the same and certified to be brand new. They are both made by the same line and same model number. It's the same battery.. just 2 external cases instead of 12 cells in one large case. Again, no need for it here. If you are that concerned about it.. (you should have this anyway), go out and buy u an AGM battery charger that's micro-processor controlled and periodically check the batts DISCONNECTED to see if they both are maintaining the same individual charging levels. If they are not.. it's probably because the cable(s) from the front to the rear are either not enough, not large enough or too much resistance in the run from point A to point B. These batts should equally put out and discharge together as if they were side by side.

It might be too late to fix it now.. Once you go black, you never go back

unless u had a loose speaker connection... i would assume so... However, can you cause your amp to shut off if u crank it to the max for just a few seconds? I've messed around with several setups where the signal going into amp is clipped so bad that it causes the amp to go into protect and right before it does, it causes the sub(s) to play some odd oscillating tone. RCA grounding problem in headunit is main problem with those type of setups. If u got a Pioneer or Kenwood headunit, you may want to wait on exchanging your amp if u fall into this category...

ok, there we go. Well, we have successfully found out it's not caused from improper wiring.

lol, magnets stuck at customs.. They prob wondering why all these boxes are "fighting" with each other all day long.... Oh wait.. We know why.. there must be magnets in these boxes, lol.. They pass....

unless u wired\types it wrong, there is a problem with the diagram that shows final load of 1.8ohms... that diagram shows 2 subs being wired in parallel all the way to the amp. Using 2 dual 3.2ohm subs, a final parallel wire load should be - 0.8ohms, not 1.8ohms.. . Something is not right there.

no, this is a dick-

ok.. this is in Hebrew- עבור SPL-הפוטנציאל הטוב ביותר עבור ציונים גבוהים היא הכמות המינימלית של צוללות ניצול יעיל ביותר בתיבה נפח, יציאת באזור וכוח. לשימוש פלט מרובות subs-רציף משמשים, אבל בעיקר עבור 1 הסיבה היחידה. זה כדי למנוע סלילי בישול או דחיסה כוח. אם אתה יכול לקבל כמה מוכשר מאוד subs מאוד מסוגלים להתמודד עם טונה של כוח לכל נהג, אז כמות נמוכה משנה עדיין ניתן להשתמש לשימוש מתמשך.

For SPL- the best potential for high scores is the LEAST amount of subs utilizing the largest efficient box volume, port area and power. for continuous output use- multiple subs are used, but primarily for only 1 reason. this is to prevent cooking coils or power compression. If you can get some VERY VERY capable subs able to handle a ton of power per driver, then low sub quantity can still be used for continuous use.

check www.metraonline.com And i got ur text, havent contacted the guy yet about it.. Been busy researchin things.

Your DCR measuring tactics are confusing the hell out of me. Measuring at the box and at the amp is the SAME thing.. same wire.. etc... Unhook ALL speaker connections going to that amps and unhook ALL coils going to each other. Measure EACH coil (4 total) and see what it reads... Then wire in series each sub and see what it reads... Then parallel them and see what it reads.

if u can diagnose the problem, we can 100% give u a valid solution.

U say it doesnt play when everythign is wired up? What happens when only half of everything is wired up or nothing is wired up? Does it play then? Seriously, we need to know more information about what IS working and on... Also, what readings do you get when probing with a DMM?

Did the little piggy scream Wee Wee Wee all the way home?

You underestimate... My last few vids i've done have been with a camera, not my phone...

i will make a video of me opening it up tomorrow so u guys can see

i got a sunroof and i've done 153s in my car... i've also jammed on it with it fully open. Mine has never had a problem. Sure it shakes like crazy but that's the way how it's made. the sunroof on my car isn't made to be locked down tight when fully closed or open. The arms the glass rest on move easily which gives off the illusion the glass is about to shatter when it isnt... it's moving with the arms.

do NOT put that extra turn on the port wall... Just do the 45 in the corner next to it. Adding that little bitty turn on the port wall like that is just... not good. It will create turbulence and that port is too sharp anyways. the 45 in the corner next to it will still acoustically tune it the way you want to and if it by any chance doesnt, you may be off.. 1hz. this isn't audible.

r u sure thats the one that came out of the stock headunit?... Check the plug(if any) on the other end of that harness and see if it's different. you might be replacing that harness in ur hand rather than plugging another one to it.

we get the idea but i think i need to help Bromo on using Sketchup, hehe. There are quite a few finishing touches u can do so the design actually looks the way it suppose to. For the actual design- The internal baffle needs to be flushed with the kerf. If you are going to 45 "some corners", you might as well do all of them... There are some designs where u cant 45 every corner but according to this design, you can. and for a personal preference of mine, instead of running a dowel rod the whole width of the box, just attach it to the vertical runs so the void in between the 2 vertical runs are wide open. Gives more room to breathe and less potential for turbulence. And honestly, just based on the design itself, you shouldn't even need ANY internal bracing... If you glue the top down and put a LOT of weight on it to securily adhere to the internal port wall, back wall and side walls, then the lengths of the internal walls in the box aren't really long enough to be concerned of flexing to the point that it would hinder performance.

i go down to south florida every spring break. If u wanna hear what high 50s sound like, you can if u want me to stop by your place on the way down.... It won't be til around middle of March of next year. PM me if u want so u don't lose me.

part of the install is also how your vehicle is modified acoustically. Whether it be deadening it, sealing off areas, rounding and smoothing areas, directing sound to certain areas, etc..

hey guys, i came across this funny topic on SSA that has no link to the funnyness implied....

Just got back from this and WOW! I don't know what to say! The insane, powerful concert with the amazing visual effects was just mouth dropping! I'm waiting for the videos to be uploaded right now. What you will be seeing as a setup using 15, yes... 15 Projectors controlling the MASSIVE sizes projected images you will be seeing. Keep in mind that the "Wall" that is being built as the videos progess is just solid white large bricks so to speak.... so anything you see on this wall is ALL video editing and projection trickery. Some parts may look in 3d.. it's crazy. the audio may be pretty distorted so you may want to turn the sound down quite a bit or completely off if you do not know the songs being played.