shizzzon

damn... i've already went over this with u more than once before... If you want an audible difference when your option is just to upgrade power.. that's not enough power to be worthwhile. Also, if you go any higher, you will probably be getting close if not over the threshold of not being able to daily the setup constantly without a cooldown period. If u want it louder.. either at least double output power but lose nonstop daily output without cooldown... Or rebuild box(cheapest solution) I dont know bout everybody but when i had my last wall in there.. yea i was runnin 7x the recommended power to each sub.. yea i could run it like that for 10sec before coils started to cook.. but at that pressure level.. i dont want to hear it for prolonged periods so it was fine. I don't see how you can accept such pressure or want it for so long unless it's mostly for competition... In that case.. i'd go crazy on power and attenuate when necessary.

Just because you know ABOUT something doesnt mean you know about THAT something. Shoulda coulda woulda... doesnt matter.. Results on paper stay on paper...They have never in the history of car audio made it to the meter. Results on the meter, stay on the meter. Formulas may be accurate but the information plugged into them is inaccurate. It's called human error.

Making it sound like he's got drugs for sale. Wait.... they sell drugs on ebay, now? where's that at? Under the Home and Garden section?

the funny thing is while you may think it's a cool idea to monitor amperage... if you were monitoring voltage instead, you would have realized there was a problem with voltage drop due to something..(loose cable) and had fixed it even sooner. Seems like a great idea, right?

if when u do multiple tests it is at different frequencies.. then it's a given that the hearing test is 100% invalid. Different frequencies sound louder or quieter than others by far. We have all been through these threads all the time... If you have to ask if a sub can take it, regardless if you have ever used a certain companies subs or not, then that means you do not have enough experience to control "potential headroom power" safely. I ran my last setup with 7x the recommended power to a group of subs ran with a company i never tried before. People kept telling me- No it wont work.. You'll blow the dust cap off, etc.... Anything can happen in the hands of the inexperienced. Point being- if you've never done it.. you can either NOT do it and be happy... or do it and gain a lot of negative experience if it gets damaged... Sometimes, learning all the bad things that can happen from experience will gain you knowledge quicker about control. It's up to you.

looks like a nice 10sec pipeline. What does it do off the line?

i'm a post whore!

i got somethin for ya.. give me a few

i really like the triangle one

hey cranberry, i havent seen u post on here in a long time... We all gettin back together for slamology '11?

then why would other brands not receive damage when running too much voltage out of the preouts? Are they using filters for such things?

just a quick thought.... Do u have that remote control plugged up on that AQ2200d? If u do.. your gain will only be 3\4 of the way up if that remote is turned all the way up...

i'd really like to know what causes it though. I used to own a pioneer bout 10 yrs ago and it never did.. but i've worked with other people's cars that have pioneer headunits and they have done it and of course the many others who have reported it too. The best way to find out the cause.. if they will tell you, is the manufacturer. Now, as easy as it sounds, how many users online have actually consulted the manufacturer about faults like this? lol

sounds like a pioneer headunit very few kenwoods do that.. but pioneer's are destined too..

i heard about someone doin something like this a few yrs ago. Someone wanted to buy this guys new laptop that was only used for a few days for around $2000 but the guy new it was a scam cuz it was like how u described it and was out of the country. It went on a message board FOREVER. Basically he packed up a fake computer. made a laptop out of cardboard and drew everything on the pieces with a black marker with a big finger on the fake screen. He sent the money to an odd account that miracuously closed before he could withdraw it.... He already knew it would happen cuz everybody knew it was a scam... Well, he was out paying to ship internationally... BUT... the receiver(the scammer) had to pay over $200 in custom fees just to receive it, lol He had record showing the receiver received it... and never heard from him again, lol. they kept close email convo until he received the fake laptop.

Hmm... Have you ever came home from a different day? You have us on the edge of our seat, doc!

good luck It's prob more than u can handle....

Here u go, I am the test tone generator- http://www.box.net/shared/ne34xdoeqs

not to take sides but this side of the story can come up to- What if the weather predictions stated for that day said no rain yet it rained unannounced... You come through an area that it had rained unknowingly and it froze over.. You slide and wreck. Even though the complex may have been illegally using water, it can still fall back on the driver being negligent. What if you hit someone? It's a dominoe effect... They would sue you, then you would have to try and sue the owner who was using the sprinkler system... All i gotta say is, the lawyer better be pretty wise...

I wanted to go ahead and create the thread because you gonna need to finalize your decision(s) very soon as i am onto you now. As far as i know, u want 2 12" BTLS off of a 3500d.... If this is true, it will be fired forward. I'll be rootin through my PMs again to find your dimensions so i can start your build. If you need an entire design done in your trunk, give me ALL dimensions so i can model battery and amp(s) mounting too if u need it, otherwise, i'll just design your box. Let me know what you want it tuned too.. otherwise, i'll tune it to 32hz for daily and interchangeable for competition.

Really? what proof do u have that AQ amps dont do well at low voltages when that AQ amp is capable of running at a steady 8v. What readily marketed amps do you see capable of doing that? It sounds like either the sub is damaged, the amp install is not properly secure causing amp failure while driving around, remote turn on lead from headunit is faulty, rcas are faulty(and i'm not talking just about the cables either)

I know you guys are.. and i am too... Everyday.. every other day... 6 minutes ago... either here or elsewhere, people are ALWAYS asking how many batteries, is this enough battery, is my alt strong enough, how many alts will i need, etc.... Well... i've been meaning to say this for a while and it seems it's time now. STOP PUTTING YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM QUESTIONS UP ON A PEDESTAL! Just because you may want to install 2,000w on stock electrical system doesn't mean it's immediately going to suffer catastrophic failure! This is where we, as a group, teach common sense..... Let's look at absolutes vs varied values- Hooking up amp(s)- They MUST be wired and grounded- Absolute They use a minimum suggested power source with good results - Varied They draw power - Absolute Their power draw varies RAPIDLY - Varied results Now for more precise examples- Stock electrical - 100A alt, stock 60aH batt. Amp install- 2,500w total The amp will draw more power than without it being installed - Absolute The amp will work regardless if using stock or upgraded electrical system - Varied The amp will NOT be harmed under proper monitoring and control of electrical system due to poor or stock electrical system - Absolute! So what is the reason for upgraded electrical system vs stock? The answer is VERY simple! This is why i will repeat this- STOP PUTTING YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM UP ON A PEDESTAL! The less capable an electrical system is... the more the voltage will drop. I'm hoping everyone knows this... (i'm not going to get into the technical details of why higher voltage is better, it's just a given. but stressing over achieving certain high voltage numbers is just stupid for daily driving..) The question is.. what is YOUR threshold? There is no set voltage that everybody says, yea that's my threshold... All you need is a DMM.. that's it.. little few dollar device is all you need. I recommend upgrading electrical system AFTER testing your new install.... not before... IF you do it before, you will probably be wasting money because you do not know exactly what you need\want. Common sense does come into play here... You can't install 3,000w on stock system and jam on it forever without checking things periodically... If you do not understand that statement as to why... you have more to learn before installing batts\alts yourself. So, this is what i recommend.. Install all your stuff... Purchase the LEAST amount of batt that would be ideal to get it functioning and test with dmm to measure voltage drop to determine if u need more batts or more alts. I'll give you an example- I ran 21,000w worth of amps on stock 100A alt, stock battery, 1 D3100 and 1 D5100 for 3 months. I ran demos on and off consecutively for about 45 min. I constantly checked voltage levels and current output from stock alternator EVERY FEW MINUTES while i was in park. If i were driving and had it cranked, these levels would be checked TWICE A DAY when in park. You gotta use your head and make sure that things are not being stressed. Am i recommending someone do as i did? NO NO NO. That is an example. It is to prove a point.. If you are new to the upgrade your electrical system game.. then sure, u can do that and see how much voltage drop you get the more you crank it up. Start off at low volume obviously and work your way up. How to tell if u need more batts or more alts? Assuming you are testing this at the given rpm value you wish to have good voltage, then continue- Most AGM batts top out fully charged at 13.0-13.1v when your car is above 13-13.1v, your alternator is in control. If the voltage ever drops to 13-13.1v, your alt is maxed out it's output at that particular rpm value. If you want higher voltage, u need better or more alts... Is it necessary? Hell no! If your voltage drop is dropping below 13-13.1v, your batt(s) either need charging immediately or you just do not have enough batt power to efficiently keep up with the current demand. Is it necessary to get more in that case? Hell no! Everyone's opinion varies because it's personal preference. Here is my preference for daily driving- I do not EVER want to see voltage drop below 12.0v on the hardest bass note possible! IF it does, you NEED more batts(or alts if u got the room for them. Remember, below 13v.. your alt is maxed out)... If voltage drops below 12.0v.. you are discharging your batts quicker than i would recommend and will take longer to charge them up and continuous use like this WILL result in the shortening of it's suggested life span. The lower the discharge and discharge state before a recharge, the longer a batt will last... Period! So what did we get from this? Use minimum electrical system with a bit of common sense to back it up. Use DMM to periodically test maximum voltage drop and base your upgrades off of that. Do NOT be stupid and use too low of an electrical system on a gigantic install power-wise. Use your volume knob if you are unsure of what your current electrical system can provide.. Remember, keep gradually turning it up another couple notches and measure voltage drop until u reach the max volume you wish to listen to it at(example of how to do it). this will save you money on overkill of buying batts and the questions on if u have enough.... If you any questions about what minimum electrical system will suffice.. READ THIS AGAIN until u hate car audio. If you do not know.. you are not comprehending.... At volume 1, it will not pull the same power as it will at volume 30 and so on... ANY electrical system can support an install... It's just at what volume level? Happy testing.. i hope.. I hope many of you grasp this as it's not hard at all...

i didnt have time to reread what i typed. i was having a headache.. hence the rant..

Exactly my point- I am tired of people looking at WATTAGE values and trying to base their new electrical system off of that.... With a dmm, u can see what type of voltage drop a user is getting...