shizzzon

oh and to add- dropping to 12.1v on 5000w and 2 nsbs sounds bout right if the car was off... A true G31 batt for car audio, 2 of them on 5k should be able to maintain 12.6v or higher with a decent output at idle from alternator.

if i'm not mistaken, i think they quit offering tech support, selling them in usa or somethin.... Too many people were interpreting that as to be used for car audio when the company ahs announced that is not their market. They do\did not want to honor warranties for a product in the wrong application as would many other companies. I know people use them for car audio as an actual car audio batt, batt for batt... I have no experience with them but can say all of our world finalist competitors that live here by me do not run NSB. All we run is the following- XS Power Xstatic Batcaps Deka 9A31s Pick one.. i'm sure you won't be able to afford the 2nd option as many do not who are not on the team.

no, lol. Deka 9A31 and a couple other battery brands i know of that are G31s are the best bang for your buck.

they are not for car audio. The only reason why they "work" for others is because they are using a LOT of them. These ups batteries are not designed to take quick large discharges without suffering from above normal voltage drop. There is a reason why ups batteries do not have a CCA, CA, MA or SC rating.. they are not made for such applications. So to get them to "work" for car audio, u need a LOT of weight support if running a large setup. I know a buddy of mine has 8 135lbs batts that was used to run 10kw. He could have easily installed 2-3 G31 batts which equals between 155-230lbs and have done the same.

i can hear a definite loss of quality, VERY bad on 96kbps mp3... I cannot hear a difference on 192 and up vs uncompressed. for movies- I cant hear a difference between 224 thru 320. Now, i CAN hear a difference between 640 AC3 and 15xx DTS... although these are comparing different compression codecs. I dont think it's fair comparing 1 compression codec to another though in terms of what the topic suggests... Point is that would mean ALL codecs at a certain compression rate sound the same and that's not true. But, MP3 is the most common.

These must be the ones that Mike is sellin of all those mis-aligned subs, lmao! You know u like that joke!, hehe

I havent seen this mentioned at all and i've seen this happen MANY times... he said he has an Optima and many Kinetiks and 270a alt.. Optimas that are frequenctly charged over 14.4v AND that are mixed with different technology batteries will fail QUICK. I cant even tell you how many people have stopped using Optimas because of this. It is my belief that the OP should REMOVE the Optima COMPLETELY from the vehicle. Get a DMM, remove ALL kinetik batteries and let them sit disconnected for a couple hours, then measure voltage on each batts terminals. What i think is happening is this- The kinetiks are dumping a load into the Optima because the Optima has partially failed. In this state, it will ALWAYS be requesting a load. If this battery has an independently lower voltage than the Kinetiks(which it will), then the kinetiks are trying to "charge" it when the vehicle is off. This will cause the kinetiks to lower their voltage... when the vehicle is on, all batteries are now low... so the ALT is trying to charge ALL batts and the stereo system. this is a very likely scenario. So.. remove ALL BATTERIES from vehicle and remove them from each other. Test EACH battery after they have sit for a couple hrs and report voltage level. I would also let that optima sit for 24hrs and remeasure voltage to see if it's changed.

Lookin for a low powered, low budget setup for HT usage. So, i came and looked at the Dcons, they look like what i want. I was thinkin about gettin a couple of these Dcon 12s and runnin a small powered amp to them tuned around 17hz. 9cuft NET was the ideal range i was thinking. You got any recommendations on if I should go larger if i can or what? What would you think about port area? Even though I will be using less than 500w for a pair, the xtreme low tuning may still require large port area? Yes\no? I can use up to 100sqin if necessary but that sounds too large, in my opinion.

ok, i'm gonna go off track here for a second so i can figure this out before i get back to the topic at hand- I had a thought on doin this but cant find any definite answer as to if it works or not... Would i get the "Realism" feeling if i mounted an HT box under the couch and have the frame of the couch (no legs) rest on it? Reason i am asking this is because i was thinking of adding some tactile transducers to the couch but there is no accessible frame under the couch (just the outer frame around the couch but cant mount anything to it) so the only thing i could do is to build a "Riser" and attach them to the riser but if this HT sub box method is better.. i could kill 2 birds with 1 stone. So, after i figure this out, we can get back to the Dcons.

it looked decent when modeling but i do not trust what i see 100% as i might not have enough info to plot graphs properly for these subs. So, double checking what i'm looking at.

if u have to ask, then lower your goals... If you are set on doing it.. get it and when it blows, well u know what... Go ahead and find out how people safely run large amps on subs.. I ran 7kw for half a year on a 1000wrms sub... I never damaged them... It was 3 15s on 21,000w. I never played it long either... There are many factors involved in knowing really how much power the sub(s) is receiving, the current it is accepting, the excursion levels, time of play that's safe, etc... ^^^ i know a sub that can handle 7kw of amp rated power for over 40 min straight.. but that's not on topic with this thread

when u are splitting the rcas... there will now be 2 lefts and 2 rights. Are you making sure u are only plugging in 1 left and 1 right from EACH split or are u running the entire split to each amp? If you are doing the last thing, that can cause a problem.

So this is what's going on start from here- Remote wire going from headunit to 100.4 this amp works fine and ALWAYS STAYS CONNECTED. Remote wire to each 3500d separately results in amp coming on without stereo on. this does not happen to 100.4 (as far as we know) It appears to be amplifier problem or an overload on the headunit.

then either something else is touching the remote wire that's also touching constant on or the output is damaged... If that's the case- use ignition turn on.

anywhere really.. I believe Autozone should even sell them. Just ask for a 20 or 30 amp relay. If u got an audio shop around town, go and ask if they got any extra 20 or 30A relays leftover u can have, u only need one. They cost less than $5 so if they try n sell one to u for an ungodly price.. don't buy it.

Here is your end all answer, hehe. Make sure stereo is off and car is off. Take a small piece of wire, like speaker wire, and jump the remote output to your power connector. It will or SHOULD spark. It should then turn the amp on. If it does, you have definite remote out problem. I would not trust alpine rep about remote wire quantity. Anything over 1 device, in my perference, i put a relay on it. Prevents headunit's remote out from burning up. Second... If jumping the remote over to the power works for both amps, you have 2 options- 1- rip out, inspect and rewire remote setup using a relay. 2- tap into ignition wire and use that as a source for powering on your amps. (note- using ignition wire means amps will be on the entire time the car is on, not just when stereo is on. there is no problem in this, but just a fyi.)

i think she was referring to you possibly being jealous that they decided to use MTX rather than SSA... From what i hear... without Khaotik... u cant set a rifle off with sub(s)

exactly! As soon as i seen this topic.. i was like.. there is no such thing as an LMS p-s-i sub that is anywhere similar.. And for the price... ERRRRRR... I would honestly guide you to SSA or Fi if you are looking for high powered yet effective sound quality. If you are looking for just brute force power, check out IA and Dc Soundlab

i know of a sub that can handle 7kw daily and another one that's a LOT bigger for daily.. And when i mention power, i'm referring to AMP rated power, not actual power received. I am under the assumption that nobody here actually sits there and clamps all their amps when they get their stuff installed to see if their sub really is receiving a certain amount of power.. that woudl be stupid and a waste of time. I know another sub that can handle 20kw for 30sec... but that's a topic that won't be discussed.. sorry.

with CA glue and applicator.. u could have applied that stuff and be beatin within 15 minutes! It's been done in competition many times.

at the same frequency all three times? also.. if any of those tests were clipped.. or clipped more than the other.. a square wave will produce peaks in MANY frequencies which will cause your ear to perceive a sound audibly louder than what it might be because of frequency shift. Same frequencies, I was burping, rolling volume. All these numbers was round abouts, not 100% sure on the exacts until I pull up my old thread. Don't know about clipped, didn't scope them or clamp, so have no idea of actual power. Point is, I sat there and hear differences that wasn't 3dBs apart. I know the theories. I know power compression. My point is, I know what I heard. You know what you heard......but do you know why you heard it? Unless you can answer the question why, and exclude every possible explanation that it was a reason other than what you are suggesting....then you didn't test anything, you can't prove anything, your results aren't valid, and you can not state anything definitive as an explanation. The reason you noticed a difference, even a "big" difference could be reasons completely unrelated the decibel difference of the fundamental frequency. Resonances, distortions, knowing the differences while listening, etc etc etc (and a dozen more things I didn't mention) are all are going to affect the results. Hell, the very fact that you rolled the volume makes your "test" useless. And I'm not arguing the 3db point. I don't agree with the 3db thing either. But, in another thread you said you could hear .5db differences, in the subbass, at a level of 140db+. THAT is clearly beyond the limits of human hearing. The differences that the OP would experience would be well below 1db, THAT would be clearly inaudible and you tried to argue against that point. FYI, "I know what I heard" isn't a valid argument. It's been used time and time again by various people arguing various points for various reasons. The simple fact is, that's not a valid defense or explanation. The only means of "proving" this is by means of a scientifically valid test in controlled conditions administered by someone with the training to properly conduct such an experiment. And what you are describing.....doesn't qualify as any of the above. The OP is at 150+, which makes it even more unbelievable that that small of a gain is going to be noticed. actually u got it backwards.. The higher up u go on the meter, the harder it is to get louder so a small increase can be a lot more distinguished than at the lower end.

at the same frequency all three times? also.. if any of those tests were clipped.. or clipped more than the other.. a square wave will produce peaks in MANY frequencies which will cause your ear to perceive a sound audibly louder than what it might be because of frequency shift. Same frequencies, I was burping, rolling volume. All these numbers was round abouts, not 100% sure on the exacts until I pull up my old thread. Don't know about clipped, didn't scope them or clamp, so have no idea of actual power. Point is, I sat there and hear differences that wasn't 3dBs apart. I know the theories. I know power compression. My point is, I know what I heard. I can hear increase\decrease on same tone less than 3db when sitting there over and over listening to the same note.. however.. the frequency is not the ONLY thing u hear.... Resonances from vehicle, vibrating objects, frequency shifting...

It doesn't work quiet the same way.Amp can be clipped to hell and back and it show up on termlab as a clean wave. Yeah, I wouldn't trust that shit cus it doesn't work like a real Oscope is supposed to. I don't even know the reason for it. It has to be broken because it is the easiest thing to do. It auto ranges and shows the wave. You just turn up or down the volume and gain. Make sure you are PROBING the speaker leads on the amp, nothing else... It must be reading an AC signal, not DC. Also... it must be on... lol Tada! Make sure you are playing a steady tone too.

at the same frequency all three times? also.. if any of those tests were clipped.. or clipped more than the other.. a square wave will produce peaks in MANY frequencies which will cause your ear to perceive a sound audibly louder than what it might be because of frequency shift.