shizzzon

yea. Just because the battery doesn't rest at 13.0v after it's been properly charged doesn't mean it's about to die completely. It DOES mean that the advertised specs of the battery are going to be slightly lower than expected. A battery will always last longer the lower the depth of discharge with a fresh new charge. This means- If you keep discharging your battery 30% down then charging, it won't last as long if the battery were only being discharged down 20% then recharged. Jay, since you already know different batts are resting differently, a solenoid is the cheapest solution to keep using the batteries without any serious problem to occur if you don't wanna go out and buy a new battery. It's not utterly important right now. Just keep them separated with a solenoid while the vehicle is off so the higher one doesn't try and charge the lower one all the time and you should be fine for a while from now.

12.8 is not high enough. They should be at 13.0v even. If they can't get that high, then they are already slightly damaged.

you do NOt want to set it to trickle to charge, hehe. Setting a charger too low of a charge on large group size batteries wil have the opposite effect of charging... You need to set it to a minimum of 10A if not higher.

honestly, if one of those dekas fit up front, i'd leave the red top out, charge EACH deka separately with agm charger then put them both back in and go.

nothing will help except charging your batts individually first. You will need to measure your red top too disconnected.

oh, i dont know anybody there, i know someone in connecticut.. Was gonna send you to a place where one of us, members, could help you look over your vehicle, but nvm.

i would assume is was rewound... If i am right, at idle, it will do jsut enough power to prob run the vehicle and that's almost it. Because of this, ANY amount of volume in use when your car is at idle will cause the load your amps are pulling to be straight from the batteries, not the alternator. Now, i can't say how close your alt is to rated power when the car is revved to or over 2,000rpm but for less than $200, you'd be lucky if it does over 140A max. What state you live in, btw?

i prefer aluminum, copper oxidizes too quick and cost more and even more to protect it from oxidizing. Aluminum doesn't really require protection since it can last for years before signs of oxidation appear.

also, you should get rid of the red top and replace with the same battery as what's in the back. If you cannot, a solenoid will be your other option, not isolator. Many people will say they run mixed models of batts without problems... Sure this can be possible but if i were to layout what is actually happening, you will see that the user will not get the full possible life out of his\her batteries by mismatching batteries.

an alternator is NOT designed to replace a charger. An alternator is designed to be used in cyclic operations, not continuous use. Alternators produce a LOT of heat at the bridge rectifier where it converts AC over to ~DC. The amount of discharge the batteries are currently in will more than likely make the alternator work at full output. The longer it's maxed out, the more heat is generated. Too much heat, the diode(s) on the rectifier can\will burn out causing the alt to lose it's output rating by 33%, then 67%, then 100%. Rectifier is common area of alternator failure, that's why i gave that as example. there is only one alternator line that i know of that is built to withstand abuse from heat and that is DC XP line, but that isn't on topic. An alternator is used to MAINTAIN the batteries charged rate. It can recharge batts up as long as it doesn't overwork the alternator. Group 31batts such as a 9A31 Deka is a pretty big battery for any alternator so 3 of them is ridiculous on a single alternator. Think of a can of coke and an empty glass- An alternator is like filling that coke up in the glass. The fizz will settle down and the amount of coke in the glass will appear to have went down... A battery charger is like pouring the coke in the glass slowly. The fizz is not a factor because you know that once you get to the top, it's filled. that's the difference in how an alternator and a battery charger works in terms of CHARGING. Batteries are HIGHLY suggested to be fully charged before installing an alternator. If not, the battery will never be at it's highest charge level. Using batteries in discharged states will kill them quickly.

make your own.. that's what i do. Fuse blocks are very easy to make. If you have a bandsaw, drill and tap set, we can talk.

you have at least one batt in the bunch that needs charging asap, not from an alternator either. Sears has a microprocessor charger for around $90 that is used to charge AGM batts. the specs are 2A trickle, 15A slow, 40A fast, 120A jump. If you do not fix this soon.. this can result in more than just your batt(s) eventually dying... your alternator will be next.

disconnect all 3 batteries and measure voltage about 2hrs after u disconnect them. If any of them read below ~12.7v, they need to be put on a charger one at a time.

lots of people knew something was coming... It's all over his facebook page

i'm not fond of any other company's boards to use for overclocking except for ASUS. I know Gigabyte supposedly has nice features but i know nothing of Biostar. If you really are planning on OCing this thing, make sure it has PLENTY of voltage controls. I think the i7s have on average around 5 different voltage points to set, non memory related, and MANY other settings. The Asus Rampage Gene II board i've built for people has 2 1\2 pages of OC features used to stabilize the system properly. If you do not plan on OC'ing that much, honestly, you could have passed on the GSkill memory and only spent $46 shipped on 4gb of DDR3 1600 memory instead. I'm currently building a board for my cousin that consists of the following- Asus P7H55-M Pro (he needs on board video with video out) i3 540 (same as yours) Silverstone Single rail 400w PSU $100 Heatsink with triple fans 4gb of DDR3 1600 He's gettin all of that for $380 shipped. We will be OC'ing his processor goal-wise to around 4ghz per core and bumping his memory up, if any, to no more than around 1620. Due to his onboard video, we can't surpass 1666 without cpu goin crazy. His FSB will be insanely boosted as that's the hot spot for speed. His heatsink\fans option will cool the new 6core systems too so when he upgrades to larger core cpu in the future, he won't have to change the heatsink.

hehe, we were all talkin in the chat last night.. You need to take another vid of you pickin that xB up while jammin! I know u can do it, hehe. Make a video illusion of 2 15s physically lifting the vehicle off the ground and moving everything.

no, lol, you want spl more than life itself. You want a BL or an SSD if u wanna save some money.

From amps i've messed with, the slave output on the master amp will bypass all processing control functions on the slave amp... That is why the slave inputs are different than just the ordinary inputs. I wouldnt see why sundown would be any different.

i dont know if that chart is wrong but i do not think this chart is accurate for musical playback. If you or the user thinks the 1/0 cable is at it's limit, it would easily be getting warm at some point. I have never witnessed 1/0 cable get warm and on setups similar to his but with larger alternator on top of that. The fact is that current is not as consistent as voltage can be and because of that, that chart above can't be taken that literal. That chart is moving into the overkill section and overkill isn't all important for a daily driver. Curious as to what alt and ratings are for that alt. The voltage drop you are seeing i believe is a direct result of resistance in your connections AND a need to take your batteries out and recharge them individually. "IF" your alt was doing 150A at 2000rpm, that would leave around another 150-200A MAX extra for music to dump on the batts. If 3 batteries cant handle that without dropping to 12.3-12.5... then either you arent using large enough batts(i'm assuming you are using HC1800 or bigger) or the batts need some charging. You still would benefit from a larger alt, no doubt, but you will also still be dropping below 13.0v even with a 250A alt likely at some points. That amp can pull upwards of around 400A. Now, it won't ever do that on music unless you have it wired real low.

if you do not want to physically brace your vehicle, you can also build a "void" and completely seal it in front of the area that needs flex control... However, the funny thing is both options will destroy the integrity of the vehicle so you might as well choose the first option and go right to the source.

even if u dont have clamps, resting the subs on the 2 baffles would have sufficed. Screws and clamps go hand in hand. Use one or the other, not both equally. Also, clamps only are the way to go if you have enough.

you mean C&D batteries? also what does UPS stand for... pardon my noob-ness the only think i can think that ups stands for right now is united postal service lol I believe it means Uninterrupted Power Supply.

I knew you were the guy with the right info! i guess i can sell them as batteries with a lower float! lol and that 12.1 was with car off then that's to be expected results. I would just stick with what it's intended purpose is... You can use other products for things they were not intended for but will lack the optimal performance outcome.

HAHAHA.. I sure hope you didn't make that batt quantity choice because you bought into all that paranoia, overkill bullcrap for daily driving, hehe. Yea, you could have drove ur car back n forth to work a couple days straight without alternator before needing a recharge on the batts. (I've had to do this before for 3 weeks.. I'm good at knowing what my car can handle without an alt, lol)

i got some XS and LOADS AND LOADS of Dekas but we will not ship them.