shizzzon

yes, i use Knu's CCA because i double up on everything. 2 1/0 runs of CCA can handle more current and less resistance than 1 run of Kolossus and 2 runs of CCA cost about the same as 1 run of Kolossus.

to ensure you test each theory out properly, I or we will let you know what to do next based on outcome.

unplug the rcas going out of the headunit into the STOCK amp. This would leave just bass playing, correct? If so, do this.. You say it only takes 10min for the fuse to blow again so try that... If it works for more than 30 min.. the RCA grounding theory may hold true...

Sure. Of course cost slightly vary with what meter is leased.. The usb meter being the cheapest one will have the cheapest leasing price. This meter will typically be the meter of choice to get leased since it requires a computer to operate so similar to a Termlab. The general overview is this- User signs a document and emails back to me. User leases for a term of 30 or 60day. User pays for price for meter before product has been shipped out. Once term is about to expire, user must ship meter, usb cable and anything else in the package on time. If warranty or lease is not void, user receives ~55% of money back for 60day, ~75% of money back for 30day. All details are outlined in document that must be signed prior to product shipment.

Well, been busy for the past few weeks... For anyone who may have been keeping up with us or do not know.. SPL-Lab USA is now leasing a small inventory of meters now. Basically, a user pays full price for a meter and when the product is returned within the signed timeframe, that user will receive a large portion of their money back. No other company in car audio that we have ever heard allows customers to do this so we thought it would be the best way to get the product out there for those still skeptical on using something other than Termlab. And don't let the name Termlab fool you.. It is not the only reliable meter in the world... Other leagues are starting to seek other alternatives. For information on leasing one of the meters presented on the official website from the owner of SPL-Lab- SPL-Lab please email me at [email protected]

I think the screenname - bassahaulic lives around you. See if he has a meter.

I know you say the 390xp but after thinking about it for a while and what you guys have told me just the 270xp does to the car.. I don't think i feel comfortable putting the car through "braking sensations" while i listen to music driving down the road. Unless you can offer a reason otherwise... I have been thinking about the HP alt instead.

i wish, or should i say, u guys wish i was closer to you so u could use me as the test subject... I run plenty times more power than kyle could ever hear, hehe. Any setup that gets put in my car will extensively surpass the alternator's capability so it's easy to test max output in that scenario. Logically speaking, it's impossible to run that much power constantly, that's why i only do it for a couple seconds at a time.

no i mean when the charger is charging them, if u are out there right when it hits 100%, it will stay on 100% for around 30min before it kills the charging current going to the battery. Just wanted to let you know to WAIT for it to stop charging before u go, hey 100%, it's done and unplug it, hehe.

Sounds good. XP/ HP alts for the win by far! Curious thing i'm almost dying to see is when Dave has some free time, he's suppose to be the mastermind on attempting to fit 2 320hps on Kyle's car, lmao! AND... without relocating anything... We share the same engine compartment and i can't even see fitting 2 stock cases in there.... It is a very interesting project we were talking about one day.. Is it possible? who knows. What's even worse in the back of my head is trying to make over 600A on a 2.4L.. or even worse... 320A at idle.. That sounds like crank or engine failure to me... But fun times nonetheless..

sure there is.. depends on what class u want to be in

We can all just meetup right before you enter or somewhere inside the expo.. No need to really meetup before going to the parking lot.. I doubt everybody will be able to park next to each other.

Woohoo! Yes! Another person! All the way from louisville, lol.

There ya go HOVE! DO IT! Now you got somebody with ya. Go pick him up and meet up with us in 6 weeks

I'm assuming HP alts do not have temp monitor sensing like the XP alts do... So, do you guys have any information on how long an HP alt can standup to maximum output before typical failure occurs?

I give ya an even better idea to pass time- Go contact Hove on here and spend some time with him... Listen to his setup until yours comes in. that'll be fun times.

You can actually tell those subs look weak by just looking at the cone and hard parts? You need to start your own sub repair over the internet with those unique skills. I personally wouldnt buy those, or any temp sub for that matter. IF you want something to do while you wait for your sub to come in- Install your headunit Run all your wires now Get your box built now Do everything you are going to have to do now before it gets here. IF you already have everything done... start getting a list of music together you are going to listen to... Somethin.. No need in wasting money. Save that money for a recone in the future...

i'd say this- If the rear battery is not separated from the front battery when car is off, then they will see each other obviously. You can charge more than 1 battery of like specs together provided they have always been together from the getgo. This is assuming that both batteries ALWAYS are on the same level of discharge\charge before recharging. Now, something i've noticed - When trying to charge starting battery with it still connected.. I couldn't get it to receive steady current over a period of 3 minutes or so. Things in the car were "stealing" the charge. I never diagnosed what was taking it so i just disconnect the ground off the starting battery then charge it. Everything is good then. Without some form of isolation, i would disconnect the ground off all batts. It's not necessary but in my situation it was.

hehe, hey Hove, how bout we all drive up to Detroit and we'll just carpool down in your ride, haha.

what? Deka intimidators are NOT UPS batteries. They are car audio AGM batteries. If you get an agm charger and u put the battery on it and it charges but wont start the car.. that wouldnt make sense... A group 31 battery is powerful. If the battery were bad, the charger would send a fault basically telling you the battery is bad. If the charger charges the batt 100%, then the batt will start the vehicle. I would not see your "what if" scenario possible.

no other charger can charge agm batteries except an agm battery charger. I can't say if the battery is actually damaged unless you put it on a proper agm charger and let it charger til it's done. If a fault is found.. well, that's your answer. As of right now, any test will say the battery is damaged because it's virtually dead so it needs to try and be charged properly first. Sears sells AGM battery chargers made under Duralast name i believe.

Wanna hear a secret.... This is how i knew a LONG time ago how to store over 30gb of data easily on a single 4.37gb DVD+RW disc Just keep on erasing the disc and rewriting more and mroe data on it and erasing it... Then run data recovery on the disc... and WALA! Massive storage recovered. Interesting way of moving large files without the equipment

I been meaning to respond to this statement. I do not know what kind or model charger you were using but that doesn't sound right... I currently have 2 XS power batts i'm not using so once a month i throw them on the charger separately to keep them maintained. I remember one time, my D3100, which is just a hair bigger than the Deka 9A31, was reading 12.7v. I set it to 15A charge. I took the ammeter and noticed it was actually only gettin ~6.7A since the computer was throttling it's charge rate. IT took OVER 2hours just to get the battery back up to 13.1v again. So how you were able to charge from 12.3 or 12.4v at 2A for 1 hour sounds like either you are using the wrong charger or the charger isn't working right. After my charger gets to 100%, it still takes about 30min afterwards to throttle the current back to a trickle and maintain charge voltage at 14.7v. Afterwords, it drops voltage to 13.6v which is float.

MANY things can cause resistance.. but don't get worked up about it. I'm real sensitive when it comes to the electrical system. any slight shift in voltage.. i'm all over it because i know if it keeps heading south.. something bad will happen in the long run. I wouldnt forget to do some basic maintenance\checking things but whenever it gets a little warmer, go out there and see what's goin on. It maybe something simple.. your voltage levels are still high, just not perfect. Just lucky your batts arent reading 11.3v... and you are 200miles away from home..... Me.. from experience.. lucky i made it back home.. XS Power got me home, hehe and helped me get 1st at the show too on dead batts... imagine that.

for one, I'd stick to AGM for car audio. for two, your alternator isn't strong enough for what power you are running sadly.. 13.3v is a pure sign that the alt can't handle the load, whatever load that is. If you believe you have more than enough capable alternator power... then i'll tell you now, you 'd be surprised to see what's goin on under the hood when u find out why your droppin in the low 13s. IT could be because the alt's belt isn't on good enough, alt itself sucks, buildup of resistance somewhere(this requires multiple check points with a DMM), or your batteries are lower than what you think making your alt charge them while running the stereo. IF you have an ammeter, that will answer almost all scenarios above.