shizzzon

do you realize that running an amp like that at 0.5ohm will put out way more current than 2 strapped at 2ohms? Your subs will last longer with a strapped pair and so will your money.

do you guys get neo precharged? reason i ask is because i have heard that there are only like 3 of these chargers around the world and they are ungodly expensive so every neo-user must cut, build and assemble while charged

you should put it back together, hook only power, ground and remote up (and of course fusing). If it's still in protect, read what voltage the power terminals are seeing. If it's above 10v, then contact db-r.

DC Power is the only alt company i know that actually rates their idle output properly... There's one reason for your low idle.. You need more rpms to get to idle.. which is sad but true.

:finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :squintfinger: :squintfinger: :squintfinger: :squintfinger: :squintfinger: :jon: :jon: :jon: :jon: :jon: :jon: :nevar: :nevar: :nevar: :nevar: Just showin some love

looks like the whole thread's users just got owned. awesome, hehe

yea, paul strouth did 12 SA-12s off just 3 saz-3500ds and could do 157s anytime he wanted to in a 4th order clamshell. It was dailyable too but never really demoed it for long periods.. In MECA driveby (measured 6ft away from passenger door outside) he had done hair over 131db which is approaching the world record ever made.. Driveby record for driveby was somewhere between 134-137db but that vehicle is completely undriveable that did that.

i dont work on it when it's cold out.. so i wont work on it for a while from now

2 15s? gona have to run nightshades or SA-15s cuz u dont have a lot of space back there...

i dont have time right now but go into my build log and start with page 1 and keep goin thru it... til i tear everything out. the first part of my build log is running 2 12s ported, 3 amps and 3 batts all in the back area keeping back seat in upright position... Copy me if u want i dont care. It was pretty loud. doin 146s at the headrest with no tuning for competition.. just straight daily driver throw in. If you line your car with 2-3 layers of sound deadening like i did.. my resonance at the driver headrest is 42hz. It also has a peak in the cabin at 34hz and another one at 23hz. So, if u want to tune low, tune around 30-32hz so u get that 34hz peak goin crazy in the car. If your box is too small for your subs, u can always tune in the upper 30s to get it to peak at 42hz. It's very loud there.

what? AQ ships Kicker products? ... umm... what? Me and many comp buddies have known about these warhorses.... Several of them are being planned to purchase very soon. We are basically getting a kickass deal on them warranty-wise... Since nobody cares to work on them.. if they break, they must buy us a new one

honestly.. i do not know how you guys can fry coils and act surprised... How many members on here that compete daily drive with TONS more power than the average guy.. and never have problems? A LOT of people. Why do they not have problems? I don't know how to explain it without pissing someone off so i'll just leave it be.

NO. that's not what is being implied. It is implied that something is happening in the upper frequencies which is more than likely causing more power to be received by the sub than expected.

might need to turn the lpf down more? Since it gets worse with volume but only when it's already loud.. it might be clipped too much. Your headunit might be boosting the upper notes too since Pioneers do have a built in EQ.

We JUST made a thread about the N3 couple days ago.. Nick said the N3 should be ready within a week from now. Make sure you aren't playing music on these subs from what i've been schooled on. Music is to these subs as RD Audio is to customer service... The shit just don't mix.

When hooking up an amp, the FUSE is the last thing that should be inserted..

i also prefer allen screws over philips too when the right ones are used... The allen screws used on power\ground are fine.. but when companies start using the itty bitty small ones on the remote and speaker terminals.. they are using the wrong type. They need to be using DEEPER allen screws so the heads are not stripped. I cant strip a power or ground but those smaller ones.. psssh... that's too easy.

In competing and daily... our results are a LOT different... For daily you want the port to be as far away from the driver as possible for the low lows... For a trunk, we typically fire a port to the side while firing sub FORWARD, not back. this always results in good numbers in trunks.. VERY few instances have we seen different. Also.. i have stated in the past do not use a single 18 in a trunk unless you have around 10-14cubes gross minimum... I guess i'm gonna have to state... never use a 21 in a trunk regardless of the size.... You are choking the hell out of it. Removing sealing causing the sub to get louder results in VERY POOR transfer of energy from the trunk to cargo area. why? The opening isn't large enough. why? Because the box is too large.

i dont know now... I was really lookin for a sub that went @#$%$#^%$&%$& instead of braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaappppppppppp.. I'm gonna have to think about it... Do the NS3s come in a 4cylinder version? the motor on these may be to much for me.

no, not TS specs, i mean specs like what are you using in the N3 compared to the N2 for example. I'm assuming the NSG is a spl sub only too? In disregards to the quality of the sound both the N3 and the NSG may produce, can they STILL be used on a wide range of frequencies like for Bassrace or just a one note wonder deal.

also tell us the full specs for it as well. and a quick question- Is the NSG any different than the SMD or are they pretty much the same?

they let you demo but only when they say you can and when they say u can, it's like everybody for 15 minutes.

Well, before answering so swiftly, contact DC Power and ask them if they make an alt for your ride first. Then proceed to ask them how their alt will work with your vehicle based on how the stock alt... in a sense, doesn't work the way most do. See if a DC Power alt overrides the computer so it's always Boss.

Sealing is a good option... The cheapest alternative to test to see if you like it.

Nobody should ever run an 18" sub ported in a typical trunk unless you have over 10-14cubes gross to play with. Just because the box fit in the trunk doesnt mean much... The box is not large enough for a low tuned daily setup which lowers efficiency and physical capability of playing very low and choking the output by placing it in a trunk will also lower efficiency. let me guess... playing music tuned low may sound loud.. but that's pretty mcuh all it is? It may shake the car somewhat.. the shake you feel is more in your back than the car itself? You need some sub(s) that require smaller volume or a setup that excels in what space you currently have. Luckily, you did choose 2 12s which typically use 5cuft net very effectively. If you are like some of these guys and want to tune below 32hz.. you may want to run a single 15 in 5cubes net or little bigger if possible for the car shattering lows. Please note the power you are running because you may have to use a slightly smaller port to prevent the possibility of the sub from bottoming out with 2kw if using a 15 in that large of box.