shizzzon

ur right. i just got off the phone with xs power about it too :)im just wanting to know where and how much these amps are...otherwise, ill just have to run 8 audiopipe aqx3500s.. i really dont wanna do that.. but i have plenty of backup options

I guess i should add this- The vehicle will always be on. It will be supplied with either a 270A alt, or a 390A alt, or dual 320s.. the choice of the alt options aren't my choice, but for worst-case scenario sake, let's say it's a 270A. Vehicle will ALWAYS be at or above 2krpm for proper alt output. I have voltmeters i will have wired at the amp's terminals to ensure i never drop at or lower than 11.0v. Here is some info i have been reading and wnat to bring it into this topic as a reason as to why i believe i may have enough batts for the scenario.. The A-Team last year ran 4 Stetsom 11kds on only 8 D3100. that's 44,000w on 880aH. They bassraced this setup on 8 15s and never dropped below 11.8v. I do not know their alt setup but even they admitted that they were very surprised at the voltage sustained for 30sec. They had clamped around 6800w out of each amp. Now, i will have 6 of these batts and am wanting to run 28kw rather than 44kw. I plan on running 4 18" Lvl5s. A pair of these subs can handle 14kw with ease. Wiring? I custom built my own fuse blocks, buss bars and will run as many runs of wire as possible. If i need to run 4 sets of 2/0 out of each amp, then so be it. I am in full control of the install and i will build anything i need to. I hope this is enough info for you. I also wish for you to PM pricing on these amps and possibly a link to a manual for these amps. I am new to stetsom, but have experience with high powered applications.

Wow, your definition of clean is obvously not what many of us are thinking... The W7 and the L7 are NOT NO WHERE NEAR in the same class together... It appears to me your definition of clean is just a proper built box, no whistling, no chuffing, no turbulence... From this aspect, your options have opened wider but... I would say you want - Fi BL.

i'm looking at 4 subs, 0.7ohms DCR, rise will probably be high due to high motor force. Car will be on at 2k rpm The subs can take the power for 30sec because of high impedance rise.

this isnt exact science, frequency that produces said pressure will have a great effect on what was mentioned above. Typically, the lower the frequency, the sooner it may happen.

145 is around where it starts to tickle your ears or u start to feel slight pressure in them 150 is around where u will have feelings of chest pressure and heavy pressure in ur ears 155 is around where u are at a point that will be impossible to swallow and will not be able to take the pressure in ur ears for long durations 160 is around where if u do not get out of the vehicle soon, u will more than likely experience immediate hearing damage longterm without knowing it right away.

OK, this IS the new measured design... Now, all u have to worry about is finding that purple MDF to go inside of that left port, lol. Box is as follows- 2 18" ZCons 14.0cuft NET @31hz 182sqin of port Bracing out the ASS. There will be more bracing that what's in the pic but pointless to draw as it's been discussed over the phone... Also, if you want, u may want to build a structure on the back of the wall out of 2x4s since u will have PLENTY of room behind it with this new design if it wants to start flexing like crazy.

I have never once seen dark mdf around here, but i have also not used mdf in about a year either... Last box i built was out of 1.5" birch. I don't use mdf anymore because the cost of mdf keeps rising where other materials are staying the same price. That's why i'll be switching over to hardwood at the minimum... or oak if i could get a discount. phi.. of course dry times change with temperature. You only wanted to use screws... because like i said before, u wanted to piece it all together at once and didn't have time to wait. This is taken from their website- we recommend clamping an unstressed joint for thirty minutes to an hour. Stressed joints need to be clamped for 24 hours. We recommend not stressing the new joint for at least 24 hours. For Titebond Polyurethane Glue, we recommend clamping for at least forty-five minutes. The glue is completely cured within 6 hours. Since i'm never in a hurry when i build a wall, i let all my pieces dry for roughly 16-20hrs before working with them again and i only work with them in hot temps anyways. No screws... Look up hometheater forums.. Most of them do not use screws either.. It's simple- if u got clamps.. why use screws? Glue is the strongest bonding agent in the build. The only reason to use screws is if u are in an hurry.. and i'm never in a hurry to build a box as that will cause mistakes. Using unnecessary amount of screws can cause the glue to not adhere properly to the surface being applied to. I am not singling myself out on this opinion.. many people do not use screws if they have clamps and have never had a problem because.. glue is stronger than screws. Clamps vs screws.. clamps are better and faster.

yes u can, just take into account that not using a slot port will increase displacement because u must factor both port walls instead of just 1 side. Make sure u account for this so u know what your new net volume is and how long the port must be as depth requirement will now change.

I'ma say no. Screw the baffles together. Its a longer wait than 30-45 mins. You don't remember that shitty box we put together. lol. I only use heavy items when i won't be doing anymore work and just leave the stuff laying overnight. Just glue, clamp, and screw the first baffle to the box and then line up the next baffle and glue, clamp, and screw to the first baffle. Be done in 15 mins tops. I'm going to disagree with your disagreement, lol. Titebond only takes 30min of pressure before u can release it and let it fully cure. I built the wall that way. Triple baffled, not a single screw on that thing. Just clamps on the outsides and weight in the middle (motors) The next day, that baby was solid as a rock. I have never screwed a baffle down.. You do it so you can work with the pieces while they cure. I am not in a hurry when i build it, therefore let them cure overtime.

don't screw the baffles together.. that's freakin stupid... I've seen people do it and it's SO a waste of time. Just get a bunch of heavy items- subs, concrete blocks, batteries.. things to keep pressure on the wood for bout 30-45min and that's it. Constantly running that many screws into the baffle will just weaken it and take a lot of labor for no reason.

It must be your location.. All MDF all of us competitors have ever bought in our area is fine. It takes a sledgehammer with several hits to a street box just to break the joints apart to throw the box away. We get all our MDF at Lowes. I'll be going a different route for my wall this summer. Goin with Hardwood. $50 per sheet here. I would go with Oak but.. unless i get a good deal on other things, i don't feel like spending $70 per sheet when i need several.

u know he first told me 38" but the door wouldnt shut so he told me 36" to be safe. He'll see this and it'll freak him out and go back out there and remeasure.. then call me on the phone..............................................again....

if it doesn't fit, u can blame the OP for giving me the wrong dimensions... This design rests above the wheel wells. ALL side panels have been removed to gain maximum width. The design will be anchored to a false floor between the wheel wells which is anchored to the vehicle's floor. This design is as follows externally- 28" high 59.5" wide 36" deep

us too.. It;s 20cuft net @36hz, port plugged @28hz. The port in the pic is at 36hz at 365sqin of port!!!!!!! it's taking 6-7 sheets of mdf to build.

ok, this is what it better look like when u build it! And i'm not playin either.. u better have white and purple mdf or else it's gonna fail, lol The purple underneath the front of the box is your vehicle's floor. I had drawn out the cabin area then drew the box within. And remember, the 2 back corners are 4x4s. Titebond then into place on both the side and back wall and Poly Adhese them once the titebond is dried. Build your 45s in front, and fill them in with foam. to build this inside a vehicle, you will want to go out and buy a LOT of L brackets. 4,5, or 6" brackets is all fine. You just need something to keep a grip on things when waiting for the glue to dry.

Feb. 25, 26, 27th in Louisville, KY. I will most likely not be competing at this show since i havent even started a build yet, too cold. I will be seeing and expecting MANY SSA, local, and other forum members to show up. for those who just want to come and hang out for a day, Feb. 26th, Saturday, is the best day to do that. It costs $14 to spectate, Few bucks for parking and i believe they serve beer here too if i'm not mistaken. It is inside so you won't be freezing. there will be PLENTY to do- Hydraulic comp MECA Bass comp Celebrities Massive car show And much more. www.carlcasper.com has all the info. Oh, and count me in as i'll be there --On Saturday 1. ShiZZZoN

u should be getting your design by the end of this week. David has confirmed that he wants to go balls to the wall.. Mandatory that i design a wall behind C pillar so it's up to him to seal it up and cosmetically take care of the rest.

thats fine i guess.. we'll see this week.

i want to come, i want to come!!! Yea slamology is fun.. especially when i get to squirt people with SPF 10000 and only get SPF 4 out of it. Hey.. you know.. I think Chuck should run 96 15s in his burban off of a 1,000w amp, LMAO! You'll love it! Let me get that box design for ya.. You gonna need 76 sheets of MDF, i do know that, hehe.

Any of ShiZZZoN's songs... Be expecting some new demo vids this summer.

oh i have never heard large ports were peaky.. If tuned right, they are more efficient, obviously.

OK, you have entered my territory now.. Part of that sentence is wrong. I agree with same amplitude only when viewing it as sine peak vs square peak. Now, same mechanical.. that's a tricky statement to make. What exactly are you implying about same mechanical? A square wave is made up of more than 1 center frequency unlike a sine wave which only has 1 center frequency, hence the reason a square wave sounds.. violent and ackward. A speaker trying to produce this will have a different mechanical properpty and there is NO way to guarantee it's maximum excursion is the same from sine vs square because of this. And, sine vs square does NOT produce the same dB. I have physically done that test and know this. To sum the test up- When the amplifiers are providing a clean signal, a square wave is significantly louder than a sine, over 1db easy. However, when the source square wave is clipped.. the sine wave prevails and the output is the complete opposite. The sine wave clipped is now over 1db louder than a clipped square wave. There is more information in a square wave.. easy for it to be louder on the meter than a sine.. but only up to a certain point. In competition, running into clipping can still increase pressure output but only to a certain point until you clip too much and start to lose pressure. When using a square wave, the headroom is FAR lower when going into clipping on the amp, therefore will suffer pressure output loss far sooner which results in a clipped sine wave boasting over a clipped square wave. Maximum overall scores driven into clipping- sine wave is louder. When running low power OR clean power, the square wave is pulling more power out of the amp even though both waves share the same peak amplitude. This is because there is more information present in a square wave but less headroom,

lol, i guess if u on vacation for the weekend, better make the best of it.

i believe you are referring to mechanical bandwidth? If your design is using far too large of a port, it can cause the sub(s) to unload a lot easier reducing the available bandwidth that can be played for a mechanical reason.