shizzzon

Well, what can i say.... What does RD and Skar and Kevin and scammers and illegal aliens all have in common? Once they do u wrong, it's common practice.. So, why am i not surprised there is ANOTHER thread about another customer's problem? Apparently let me lay out circumstantial information from my own opinion. Having done a LOT of business online, customer service, realtime information and product need to be top notch.. Customer service comes from ALWAYS being available. If not, callback customer... Realtime info- shipping info needs to be sent.. if not, how is a customer suppose to know what's goin on? Product- obviously it must work.. IF it doesn't, your pockets BETTER BE deep enough to accept losses all day long without it hurting business... Well, i believe either it's ran by someone who has none or not enough of this experience or doesn't have enough money to start this business with possible losses along the way.... It's apparent it's one of those... there is no other possibility or someone is lying! Now, when i ship lightweight things, i use USPS. I do not get tracking because it's not necessary for my purposes. EVERYTHING i ship gets delivered in 3days or less in the USA so there's no need for tracking.. IF something is lost.. insurance will cover it, plain and simple. If not, I'll battle the carrier while the customer gets another product.. Why? because my pockets aren't light... In this day and age... CS is better than a product.

motivate me... i need actual help this time.. Need custom suspension put on and a LOT of fiberglass work...

if u goin to Slamology in Indy.. u can meet us there

damn.. kevin is gettin such bad rep.. not even the camera can focus on what he's doin.. That's TRUE scammin right there.

then u will get a mythical answer

If your first name is Samuel... is your last name 6731? hehe. I also work on computers as well as many other things. PM me and tell me what's goin on with your internet and i'll tell u what to do or point you in the right direction to fix your problem.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Pioneer-Premier-DEH-P800PRS-iPod-Dash-Receiver-/170613903465?pt=Car_Audio_In_Dash_Receivers&hash=item27b9619069

ok.. well, like i said.. he was nervous apparently.. Can't wait to see how he explains to us how to wire up Hank's 48 10s

Obviously you didn't notice that he wired the sub in parallel Um... no he didn't.. he DID wire the sub in series...

well.. like i said, slight stumble of words... he did get his primary point across... We showed how to wire in series, or double the ohm load... however he said it. Now, if he made a vid just strictly saying, i'm gonna show u how to wire in series.. then ended wiring in parallel.. well.. that's a whole other story, hehe.

how is it fail? He didn't say anything wrong.. just a couple stumbles with words probably because he's being recorded.. but nothing wrong in the vid that i see.

if screws are used, you "can" pull them out but i wouldnt see the reason behind that.. Too much pointless labor..

:banhim: :bsflag: :fing23: :faintthud: :dammit: :Doh: :deadhorse:

what exactly do u mean? The 4 18s are Lvl 5s The 6 15s are Lvl4 XLs In terms of mods.. i do not know if i need DC to do anything crucial to the subs... I have plenty of possible team mods i can have done.. but won't get into that since i don't even know what subs i'm runnin yet, lol

pics of bracing, eh.. the pics of the 12s are the only ones i showed bracing but that pic was done quite a while back... The other options show no bracing as it's not really necessary to choose an option. I'm stuck between 4 18s and 6 15s... In all honesty, i at first was thinking 6 15s.. but now.. 4 18s is makin me wonder...

If your wood doesn't suck, screws do just as good of job I wasn't implying screws suck period.. That was taken out of context. What i am implying is excessive use of screws is bad. I havent been in this topic in a while but i'm pretty sure that's the point that was being expressed by me when i was stating using screws like i see many people do to screw their baffles together is pointless.. I've seen people use around 60 screws just for that!?!?! Instead, it would be quicker and probably stronger to just lay a large amount of weight on the center of the baffles and clamp the hell out of the sides all the way around. But.. this is more technique than the only way.. Since there is no only way to do it.. this really isn't debatable.

OK, so we got 2 votes for the 18s... 1 curious vote about the 4 12s, hehe. Let me toss this out there as a little bit more info about the designs being presented here... The 4 18s will more than likely be housed in ~18-19cuft NET. DC Soundlab has already assured me that with the power on hand, the volume isn't too small. Tuned @35hz with 360sqin of port The 6 15s will more than likely be housed in 22cuft NET. This will allow them to be used in an enclosure which exceeds optimal requirements. Tuned @35hz with 230sqin of port The 6 15s have more motor, more cone area, more coils to dissipate heat, more volume... But the 18s have much more port...... hmm.... And don't think that's not enough port... My first wall was 4 15s off of 11,000w clamped in only 13.5cuft with 144sqin of port and pulled a 153.4db at the head and a 156.8 in the kick.

the "other things" like weight suspension, space, wiring, electrical system, etc... has all been taken care of for each and every design. All designs posted above already have a full start to finish layout for them to become a reality.

26.5v is the expected AC voltage to obtain 350w@2ohms... However.... It would be safe to probably go over this number a little because voltage typically increases a little with impedance due to the stress it puts on the power supply. Notice on many big amps how they may be rated as follows- 1000w @4ohm 1800w @2ohm 3000w @1ohm When u see an amp such as this- 1000w @4ohm 2000w @2ohm 4000w @1ohm You should expect to be disappointed...honestly. So, a slight increase in voltage with impedance rise is what usually happens. Now, instead of getting all technical on where the amp should be.. just do what stefanhinote said. You are not on a dying level to have the amp set in such a way to get every single 0.1v out of it.. If you have to ask, you are not competing, therefore nothing crucial is necessary.

in a real world.. according to a graph.. the 10s are shown to produce the least pressure regardless of tuning including the low end I do not know why i posted that as an option as i discussed it with a friend of mine that i more than likely will not go with that design ever... Cancelation will be a major issue and it's the design with the least power and motor force. That would work great for a 4th order but my car isn't large enough to attempt to do an averaging 160 in any type of bandpass.

Hello once again... While i am patiently waiting for the next few months for companies to contact me back so i can buy their products........ i'm going to start planning the next build... But.. wow is there so many options... So, i want others feedback on what you think i should do and why? Car is 2007 Scion tC. goal is to break 160.. if i dont, oh well, if i do, yay! hehe. Specific goal- this is not a burp only vehicle. This is an averaging-mode vehicle so harder to get to that 160! Options i have- Option number 1- 16 10" DC Soundlab Lvl3s powered by a Single SounDigital 12Kw @35hz tuning. Another option- 4 DC Soundlab Lvl5 18s powered by 2 SounDigital 12Kws @32hz Another option- 6 15" DC Soundlab Lvl4 XLs powered by 2 SounDigital 12KWs @35hz Last option i have right now- 4 12" DC Soundlab Lvl5s powered by 2 SounDigital 12KWs @ 35hz This design is lined with concrete, hence why less cone area. So.. what do u guys think? And no.. I'm not doin 64 8s, lol

For those of you that are either Team IAK or those who will be hanging out with us (Team IAK) at the Carl Casper show on Feb. 26th, Saturday, Louisville, KY... You might want to put your name down in this thread for a free surprise. I had talked to Jay-C76 about this and i know he's been dyin to get this(i know his computer has been dyin as well... just had to say that) If any of you are familiar with "Decaf" songs.. well, you will want to put your name on here. I periodically rebuild songs for us low tuned bassheads. Some songs i do very little too such as just slowing them down and emphasizing the low end more while others i completely strip the original bassline out and generate a series of basslines and rhythms to replace it for a completely new sounding song. There are MANY MANY MANY songs to listen to on this MP3 disc i will be handing out at Carl Casper for free! Typical emphasis is usually around 30-36hz whereas i've been known to go crazy and drop it to the mid 20s a few times. So, put your name down so i know how many to make. As soon as i start to see interest, i will update below this line on this first post every song i have currently done that will be on the disc. Ok guys, here is the list of songs that will be on the disc! Pink Floyd - Another Brick in the Wall (All 3 parts combined. First one i ever did. Over 15min Long! Be VERY CAREFUL! peaks below 15hz in quick spurts) Jamie Madrox - Get 'em Bone Crusher- It's Me (CAUTION! at or below 30hz) Tech N9ne - No Can Do Axe Murda Boyz - War Angles Dark Lotus - Mah Jeh Mah Dark Lotus - Fire Rain TwiZtiD - Fright Fest - Intro (Caution! Full Blown chaos) Violent J - Let It Rain (Caution! Soft peak @12hz) TwiZtiD - Nikateen TwiZtiD - Bagz (Caution! Woofer Cooker!) TwiZtiD - We Don't Die Dj Paul - Underground Vol. 16 - DJ Paul Gangsta Blac - Fly and Blac Jamie Madrox - Take It 4 What It Is Monoxide - That's Real Bone Crusher - Never Scared Bone Crusher - Grippin the Grain Insane Clown Posse - Murder Murder Murder Insane Clown Posse - Rebel Flag Lil Wyte - Get High To This Lil Wyte - Oxy Cotton Marilyn Manson - Dope Show Lil Jon and the Eastside BoyZ - Whatcha Gonna Do (Caution! Woofer Cooker!) Phil Collins - In the Air Tonight - I take NO credit for this as this was NOT done by me Triple Six Mafia - Tear Da Club Up - Old SkooL Original revised- Peaks @50hZ (brace yourself!) Triple Six Mafia - Rydin in da Chevy - Peaks @50hz (CAUTION! SEVERE WOOFER COOKER! XTREMELY LOUD!) T-Rock - Nigga Yeen Know (CAUTION! Peaks at or below 30hz!) Axe Murda BoyZ - Threat Axe Murda BoyZ - Zoned (CAUTION! Peaks at or below 30hz!) Bone Thugs N Harmony - Body Rott WuTang - Triumph (Peaks @50hz) Beastie BoyZ - Brass Monkey (Holy jesus!) Ice Cube - We Be Clubbin (Laid Back Version - shizzzon) Westside Connection + Ice Cube - Bow Down (CAUTION! Peaks at or below 30hz!) Sir Mixalot - My Posse's On Broadway (Holy jesus!) Westside Connection - Hoo Bangin E-40 - I'm Da Man E-40 - Yee Unreal Tournament 3 - Slaughter (CAUTION! Soft peaks @24 hz and 13hz, Sound Quality track, play it with a nice setup) Unreal Tournament 3 - Level 2 Anybody Killa - Come Out To Play Bone Thugs N Harmony - Look Into My Eyes (Laid Back version) Gorilla Zoe - Juice Box (CAUTION! XTREMELY LOUD! WOOFER COOKER! Xtreme recording amplitude!) Bone Thugs N Harmony - Resurrection (Laid Back version) Busta Rhymes - Dangerous (CAUTION! Intentional clipped signal, careful with volume control) House of Krazees (H.O.K.) - Haunted house (Peaks @50hz) Unreal Tournament 3 - KR Absolute Zero Gangsta Blac - Beat Da BreakZ (CAUTION! Peaks at or below 30hz!) Blaze Ya Dead Homie - What My Name Is C-Murda - Lil Nigga Tupac - Violent (CAUTION! Peaks at or below 30hz! XTREME Addiction capable, hehe. Ultra Classic!) Shinedown - Left Out (Who said rock doesn't sound good with heavy bass? Check it out!) Doomsday Productions - Nightstalka Oxide and Neutrino - Shoot to Kill (CAUTION! Peaks at or below 30hz!) Lil Jon and the Eastside BoyZ - Bia Bia (Peaks @50hz instead of the crappy high 60s) Master P - Burbons and Lacs (Ultra Classic! Laid Back n Low!) Prodigy - Mindfields (This song will scare the shit out of you!) Insane Clown Posse - Skitzofrantic Crucial Conflict - Desperado (Ultra Classic! This song will also scare the shit out of you!) David Banner - Get Down Like a Pimp (Completely Brand New Bass Line! Totally different song) The R.O.C. - My Click (SQ isn't all that great. Recorded from Tape Cassette back in the mid 90s but bass is still tearin it up!) Tron Soundtrack - Daft Punk - End of Line (CAUTION! Soft Peaks @19hz) Tron Soundtrack - Daft Punk - The Game Has Changed (CAUTION! Soft Peaks @23hz) There are still more being worked on right now...

i'll start ur box in a couple days hopefully. Gotta get his specs so he can build this thing.. yet again, lol. Now, Stu.. a word of warning.... If i do a design for you and come to find out you measured incorrectly like Dave did.. oh man.... I'm bringin the Posse and haulin ass up there and we all goin to Applebees for 13hrs straight and nobody's leavin until Hove finishes all 25 plates of food i'm gonna make him order... then i'm gonna shove a tape measure up someone's ass and tip the waitress whatever number comes out first. Besides that, i feel pretty confident in your design Stu. Oh.. and Casey, if u see this... you're next after Stu. Ok man, box specs- Remember before i begin- the FLOOR ( between wheel wells) and TOP are SINGLE layer. EVERYTHING else BUT the inner port walls are double layered. Now let's begin- Floor- 38" wide 28" deep Back wall-(sits on top of floor)(double layered) This is the piece that looks like a thick "T" Bottom part of back wall- 38" wide 6.5" tall After 6.5" tall, proceed with the following- 48" wide 23" tall Total height of back wall- 29.5" tall Lower Side walls- (double layered) These fit in FRONT of the back wall on the lower portion of the back wall. 6.5" tall 26.5" deep It is the same on both sides Now, the floor that will overlap the wheel wells.(double layered) Remember, it will sit a little bit over the wheel wells so it's advisable to fill between this and the wheel wells to brace after building this box. This flooring is for the ports and dimensions are same on both sides. This flooring is also mounted on top of the Lower side walls explained above. 6.5" wide 26.5" deep (make sure u let these completely dry before attaching anymore pieces to this piece because it is only being held by the lower side wall and the back wall...) The UPPER side walls- (double layered) Same on both sides- These will amount on top of the floor you just made above(and after it has fully cured! very important) 21.5" tall 26.5" deep Next is the inner port wall- This is single layered and has same specs on both sides. 22.25" deep 21.5" tall This gets mounted on the floor that is mounted on top of the lower side wall. So, you will mount this on the edge of the floor, leaving EXACTLY 4.25" width between this wall and the UPPER side wall on both sides of the box. ALSO, when mounted properly, there should also be EXACTLY 4.25" of space between the back of this port wall and the BACK wall of the box. Now, onto the baffle-(double layered) This mounts in between the lower side walls, the floor above those and in between the inner port walls. 35" wide 29.5" tall Subwoofer CENTERING positions. The following is to ensure that your sub cutouts will fit onto this baffle staggered. The following specs are based on an X/Y axis. X= horizontal Y= vertical Measurements are made measured FROM the LOWER LEFT corner of the baffle. So, if i say- x=6, y=12 that means, from lower left corner, go 6" to the right, and 12" up. Now, here are specs- speaker 1 mounted on top left of baffle- X= 9 5/8" Y= 19 3/4" speaker 2 mounted on lower right of baffle- X= 25 9/16" Y= 9 1/2" PLEASE NOTE- Please make sure i am using the proper information for making these cutouts PRIOR to assuming i'm right. Cutouts are based on following assumption- Cutout hole- 16.75" diameter Outer diameter- 18.5" If that's right, then my numbers are safe. Also, please use a compass or take your router bit and graze it across the mdf to scratch a circle around the baffle to MAKE sure that you have your center point exactly where it needs to be and there will be no mounting or sub placement problems! I'll let you know about the internal bracing when u get there.. Do NOT put baffle on before installing most of the internal bracing though! When u are ready for the baffle, let me know! Also, the top is- 48" wide 28" deep

ur right. i just got off the phone with xs power about it too :)im just wanting to know where and how much these amps are...otherwise, ill just have to run 8 audiopipe aqx3500s.. i really dont wanna do that.. but i have plenty of backup options

Ok, let's say lay this out for you so we get the picture of the setup- 6 D3100s = 660aH, 30,000 MA 1 D5100 = 60aH, 3100MA Total = 720aH, 33,100MA Highoutput alt between 270-640A.. unknown at this time. Was planning on running 2 Stetsom 14kds. If you think the electrical is not up to your standards, let me provide usage details. Under maximum power demand on music- duration time of 30-45seconds. All other types of usage- Burps- 0.8-2.6seconds constant use- VERY low power consumption- typically under 80A so i know i got that covered, lol. So, for typical 30sec runs, this electrical system should be fair for 2 of these amps right? I'll put it this way.. I do many tests on my car electrical-wise to ensure the longevity of my equipment. If i were to install 1,000,000w of power in this car on that electrical, i know that wouldnt work for 30sec runs but i can find the sweet spot on how much attenuation i might need. So, if i'm borderline with your opinion, i can always attenuate what power might be too much. I'm just curious, in your opinion, how much suggested power i can run off of this electrical setup for 30-45sec without dropping below 11.0v I believe i should be ok with this but u never know.... After every show, i unplug and manually charge ALL batts with a battery charger to ensure top notch performance. No batts are installed in the car if they rest below 13.0v Also, I need you to PM me about competitive pricing for 2 Stetsom 14kds as well I am installing in a 2007 Scion tC in a wall probably 4 18s from DC Soundlab. Competition Sanctions i would be in - MECA USACi (maybe) FCBC - organized in KY, USA only I am also the National Importer in control of all distribution for SPL-Lab in Russia. So, I am always around the competition scene.