shizzzon

it sounds like u need someone else to do what i said. specs on ur equipment are irrelovant for this conversation, but rather how the wiring config and settings are.

u have a DMM? Measure DCR at the amp's terminals and make sure it's reading higher than 0.6 ohms Also, i have typically seen many SA amps go in protect because of a light clipped signal. I would check to see if u are driving the amp with a clipped signal. They are real touchy when u aren't running clean all the time.

welcome to spl... Hopefully you will get to hear mine this year

problem with this install is that volume is against me and that's something i have to combat. So in doing so, i must attempt to save the most volume possible for this build. The last wall i did, i didnt do that and wasnt too impressed with it but then again i wasnt expecting much since i built it to learn off of. the steel is the base to attach the walls to so securing it via screws would allow the screws to protrude in front of the steel which won't be a good idea. This install is.. different because to retain volume, the least amount of structural support is to be used.

also, let me tell you what's goin on so u may understand better. Even if the wood was attached, i still couldnt screw together. That steel u see, that is the base for the side walls to be attached to. how? With this 2part glue and screws and a lot of foam... again, to fill in the small cavities once the side walls go up. Since the 2x4s in the back are not attached but rather pressurized in the space behind the side walls, they will still aid in bracing the walls. the steel is there to help minimize the flex the side walls may want to move and the 2x4s and foam are there to help prevent the steel from flexing. There will also be steel ran inside the walls of this wall too to help prevent the wall from flexing inwards as well.

that wood in there isn't attached to anything. It's just used as a filler just like the foam is, that's why. It wouldnt structurally help by screwing it together. I need to continue to fill the area back there with foam. I do this little by little until there is enough pressure on the outside shell of the car. Right now, the exterior part of the car is pretty damn stiff! hehe, but there is just a minor amount of movement still left in the wood when i hit the car real hard. Once it stops moving, then i'll quit foaming.

Here is a picture of it in use approximately 8 minutes after applying it. I will have another pic or video later on today when it's cured and final view of it tomorrow when it's completely cured.

Holy Shit! It was talking air out of your lungs? I have never yet heard of the ancient language of AIR but i heard it was a breeze once you get the hang of it.

I didn't know he had already proposed! Oh and happy Birthday, Mark.

Maybe Krypto needs me to design him a box... uh oh...

this design is bare tuned to 36hz and plugged to 30hz. As mentioned above about no port kerfing, if you have enough solid port area, flaring a port can\will actually decrease spl potential output. That's why you do not see walls always kerfed or flared like crazy! Yes he does still have potential but we can say now that this box is very efficient!

it's 1ohm STEREO, 2ohm MONO stable.(the ap30001d)

if it goes in protect at 4 ohms then u have a problem... the amp is 2 ohm stable in mono.

a picture would be awesome of this metal piece

he is working on the cutsom fuse holders.. The 300A fuse popped on the stetsom 5k and he's workin on installin dual anls to hopefully fix the issue. He just sent me a pic of what he just hit on the meter but i do not know where it was metered at, i'll let him tell us. Also, he is going to brace the rear wall where the port is because he said it's flexing and that wall can only be braced externally so let's see what he does.

don't make all of us drive to california and diagose the problem with all this cheap gas prices goin on right now..

Here is pics of the resin container. Hardener container says same thing...

leave it on then, do not turn it off

it's apparent it's not out of phase. do this- BUT DO NOT LEAVE IT LIKE THIS!- Turn gain clockwise all the way. Turn LOW PASS FILTER clockwise all the way Turn SUBSONIC FILTER counter-clockwise all the way UNPLUG ANY remote knob coming from the amp. Tell us what happens. You run a risk of destroying the sub by leaving your amp like this if and only if it really starts to get loud. What i need to know is if it gets considerably louder, like a LOT louder... IF it is, it's your settings or the remote knob on the amp set wrong.

Just playin.. hehe.. Was your heart racin there for a minute?

OH Noes! I forgot to tell u something.. u gonna screw the whole box design up!

ok... where was the meter?

maybe i am looking at this wrong

NO... u are doing it WRONG... Parenthesis inside AND anything strictly attached to it is done FIRST. 9+3 = 12 2(12) (This STILL needs to be simplified before solving... So = 24.. Now we have 48 / 24 = 2

you are wrong because Parenthesis comes before all that... Seriously like Duran and kirill said.. We should be lucky that these equations are not used in car audio, lol.