shizzzon

port area for a box is not determined by the volume of the box. This rule of thumb is very generic and doesn't generally work with many installs. Results in excessive port area many times. Well the subsonic is something I was waiting to get set until I solve this problem. For now, I have turned it all the way down (yes I did during my initial testing to all of those who suggested it). Also, my LPF is turned all the way up on the amp, but it is set at 60 Hz at a -18 dB/oct. digitally on my radio. I'm going out to do more testing this afternoon. Voltage dropping to 12.5v isnt good imo. With a 225a alt and 2500wrms amp on music (doubtful you even come close to that rms rating), you shouldnt really have considerable voltage drop. You went from a RF amp to Sundown. Sundown amps are no joke. You may want to consider upgrading or reworking your electrical wiring if needed. You might even need to look into XS Power battery up front and another XS Power battery near the amp. I have a feeling you are starving your Sundown amp. Maybe your enclosure foe the sub is less than optimal. Good luck Whats wrong with voltage at 12.5? Also, why wouldn't he have a considerable voltage drop? Assume at idle the 225a only puts out 150ish, the voltage is going to drop when the alternator is reaching its output limits. I don't see how he is "starving" the amp either. With the information the op supplied he changed amplifiers and upgraded to one with 2.5 times more potential output. Therefore the electrical requirement is 2.5 times more. But.........no additional electrical upgrades were done to support all the added power. 12.5v is basically the resting voltage of his battery. This means, to me, that his amp is pulling 100% power out of the alt and them dipping into battery reserves. Dead battery anyone? 13v or higher for me or my systems is turned down. There are many unknown variables here, but my opinion stands. Op, how hot does the amp get? Pretty hot I bet. I ran my previous amp with the stock 120 amp alternator for.... 2 years I believe without incident. Voltage RARELY dropped below 13.8-14V. The time between the period where I upgraded alternators and sold my amp was maybe 2 weeks. That means that I played my "old system (old amp and sub)" for about two weeks with the upgraded alt. Voltage was fine still, obviously. The battery was replaced about 4 months ago. It's resting voltage is 12.6V. Your logic doesn't make sense. Just because I upgrade amplifiers does NOT mean I need to upgrade my electrical if it is already at or above par. I do not ride around playing tones either, so The amount of time my amplifier will draw full current is VERY short. You know about the dynamic properties of music, etc. 225*12.5 (the LOWEST voltage it will drop to) =2812.5. And this doesn't account for impedence rise. And it doesn't include the current the battery has available!!!!! I believe my electrical system is not the problem. I do not mean to be offensive, I just get the feeling that this is NOT and electrical system related problem. My friend was running a SAZ3500D to two 18" Xcons on stock electrical (150 amp alt and one battery temporarily) and he could drop to 11 V!!!!! And it was still loud as fawk. Amp stays cool as a cucumber. However, the dustcap of the sub got quite warm, which lead me to believe I was driving the amplifier into clipping, which baffles me, because it does not feel like 2500 watts of punishing power. It barely feels like 1000 watts! Oh and ANOTHER issue I have is that when playing at full volume, my voltage will actually spike up to over 15V, sometimes giving me an error message on my Driver's Information Center. This is a very strange problem I cannot figure out. It happened with my old amp as well. Stupid PCM monitored voltage. I need to get my alternator internally reg'd I guess. If you are pulling a heavy load that is about to or does exceed the alternator's output at the given rpm and your pcm is still able to spike the voltage up that high.... Sounds to me the alternator may be backing off current output.. If it is, then that's when you dip deeply into the battery and lose output. Another note- That Sundown amp can receive an input signal up to 6v vs the Rockford up to 5v. So by default, the Sundown amp would need to be turned up a little more to match the output of the headunit.

isnt the a7 1200 or 1400w?

running 5x the amp rated power to a sub doesnt mean it will blow... I ran 21kw worth of amp power to 3 DC lvl4s (1000wrms each) for 2010 competing season and didnt damage them. It's not what u got but how u use it.

Really ? That is pretty silly to say. LOL. I don't see the argument of having a good protect circuits is a bad thing, even in the lanes. Just because it goes into protect with you, doesn't mean its totally useless to everybody else. Don't change what I'm implying or saying... I do not own sundown monoblock amps, I was speaking on behalf of many users that own them that have all had the issue. I was not involved with any of the installs so do not think I have anything to do with it.

get a bench tester and test it that way.

i dont know about 24" but 16" 12ft long costs $79

i can special order them but they must be ordered in 12ft sections. Contact a company near you that deals solely with concrete. My local vendor carries them up to 36" diameter.

first things first- Unplug power cord from router for a FULL 60seconds. After this, plug power cord back in.. wait ~10 seconds then attempt to connect via laptop. If it fails again, if running Vista or 7, run repair netowrk connection and see if it finds and fixes problem. If it doesnt, open command prompt in All Programs -> Accessories Type this is exactly- ipconfig/all Copy n paste everything it says. Sensitive information will be listed here so if u do not want it posted publicly, pm me the info. I will look over it and see if your Windows OS is still configured properly for networking based on this info.

You are 100% right, sir. I used to use it when one day i noticed the pc was acting as if it was infected so i did a scan with Eset and it found nothing.. I fired up a license from another company and boom.. virii, trojans, couple worms, spyware, malware like crazy everywhere...

Let's not go crazy here, hehe. I run pcs 24\7 that need constant ontime and access anytime throughout the year. So of course these pcs need to be virii free. I have went through several packages every few months in the past and the current package is working VERY well. Mandatory to keep- MalwareBytes Virus protector- Avast Pro or AVG Pro Both are on par with each other and work very well with MalwareBytes. That comment above about getting infected on smart browsing isn't true. Not doubting your intelligence but i do not want the OP to feel secure when he isn't by safe browsing. MANY times throughout the month, i get reports of "something" trying to attack a pc or that i am infected. After researching the root cause, i find the problem- I leave on average about 80 webpages open on the pc. Many of these pages are message boards. These message boards, like many sites, cycle advertising. Some of these ads that are cycled contain imbedded virii which when cycled gets dumped into your temporary internet files. With the package i currently use, there has only been ONE time that a Dropper got through and only took 4 seconds from detection to complete shutdown. There was only one thing at the time that fixed it, something you ONLY need to run when all else fails- Vipre Rescue And, an Xtreme security package- Rollback RX This program uses the same technology like many campuses and libraries use on their computers. You can intentionally infect your pc and delete as many files as possible.. When u restart, everything is restored as if nothing happened. The software is VERY strong. It's intentions is to NOT save anything saved on the hard drive. so you must setup the program to mantain certain folders permissions to allow saved information so you can still use and download things normally without losing it the next time you restart, And the last resort option- if u need pc help, just contact me.

for reassurance, just talk to the company that is building your alternator so you can understand better. Depending on the type of vehicle you have, 12v system can actually be as low as 13.2v and still be normal due to the way the regulator is tied into the computer. My buddies honda can shift from 13.6v to the high 14s back to battery rest because it's how the regulator is programmed. At one time, the alternator was somehow bypassed and stayed at a solid 14.7v but caused massive stuttering in the engine and would literally drop to almost 0 rpm causing a stall.. Since he couldn't drive like that, it was rebuilt so it had to work with the regulator. Point is.. your alternator company should know what your expected voltage will be.

hehe, i'm learning how to be visually graphic with the symbols.. interesting visuals, lol.

8=================D Mines bigger

where's your proof it's gonna be metered this weekend? hehe, couldnt resist.. Ok sounds fair.

if he was your buddy, he shouldnt be chargin you anything.. I nor any of my friends charge anybody to run on meters. We just do it for the fun of the sport.

So the verdict of this thread is neither party is going to show proof over this debate?

i didnt know if someone was actually gonna do this but if they are, that's how it should be tested. Of course i am not exclusively part of this discussion, just sharing some info for ya.

if one is to do a sweep.. it needs to be created.. not one just randomly available. It was said this setup does 155+ between 26-55hz... So, i can create the sweep file and host it if no one else that is going to conduct it knows how to. To create the appropriate sweep- Create a sweep between 20-60hz @0db. This will cover 41 different frequencies. Create this sweep in a timeframe of 1 min 22sec. This will allow each frequency to be measured exactly for 2 seconds before the next frequency is played. The goal of this test is NOT to see how loud you hit, but how consistent you hit. Because of this, it is advised to not have the stereo cranked in fear of damaging the subs. Have it attenuated in the low to mid 140s for safety sake or higher if you think the equipment can handle it. The measuring software needs NOT be on peak hold. Keep it set to realtime and when video recording, please use full 30fps.

And you never sit back and think why people are siding with M5... Instead, everyone wanting to be offensive and take pride that you "win" this and "win" that sounds arrogant and nobody wants to help someone who acts like that. It's the same attitude a teenager has. They think they know everything. I'm just letting you know that's how this whole argument looks and if it doesn't change it's attitude soon.. it will be completely over. It's funny how after everyone goes to sleep last night that all kinds of "new members" come on this thread and start badgering him and think they won an argument? Arrogance. M5 is VERY knowledgeable.. There is a reason why Impious, M5, Topgun and i think even Tirefryr are all over this topic and are persistent about the conversation. If they were not knowledgeable.. why would they still be persistent? Now, you guys think M5 is dodging your questions and we know you guys are dodging his.. Why am i looking at it like that? He wants to know, for example, how a user can trust a designer who may know a lot about 1 note wonder boxes, but implied from the users here, that he is not known for doing musical daily designs. It's been said a thousand times already that this design was for music, not competition. But when M5 starts to ask info about the design.. all we keep getting is the designer has built winning boxes for competition. How does that have anything to do with musical boxes? These are TWO totally different box designs. So.. based on that info.. still, the only info he or we have, it appears the knowledge that was involved in making the design was from a pure competitor point of view, a peaky point of view. M5 has yet to be told what info the designer used to build the design... What is it, where is it? Without this info, it is pointless to keep nagging him about it because he WANTS TO HELP\EDUCATE those involved so they can understand what he wants to express. But you guys want his credentials prior to helping yourself? I hope you see how ridiculous that looks. Now, back on topic i hope.

Stefanhinote, leader of all who is chatworthy, has advised us all to be in the chat in less than 20min from now. Be there beeches! Hehe

i'm bored.. the chatroom is currently flooded with only me in it...

you are referring to the Key, not the password. Password is for login to access router settings. Key is encryption that is used to prevent unauthorized access to your internet service. If it only works when you use no key, then i need to know what you are using to try and go online with wirelessly? Is it a laptop, video game system, phone, etc? 2nd, you need to make sure that the proper encryption method is chosen on the device doing the connection. Using the wrong method will not work. Did you buy this router used? Check and see if there are MAC filtering adresses turned on Check to see if there are a limited number of DHCP users allowed on the network is your router setup to transmit the same technology as the device doing the connecting? There is A, B, G and N. If your router's technology is newer than the device doing the connecting, make sure your router is setup to transmit older style signal for proper connection. Are you transmitting your SSID? Some routers require that you do this even if you type it out exactly.

DIY- watch 2 girls 1 cup.. it's free.

i believe www.oilempire.us is the website that debunked Loosechange sometime ago.

yea.. 8awg or even 10awg would of probably worked just as well too. Again, don't buy into the overkill hype unless you are competing.