shizzzon

if they gonna be selling them for that cheap.... then it looks like SSA is gonna be in the lanes everywhere soon because that's one helluva price point compared to other drivers in it's class.

I've had my setup out of my car for several months now but i still have both 200A solenoids in the car because the input wire is still hot and the fuse for it is in a place that is hard to get to and i'll change it out once i replace my starting battery. Well.. couple days ago, i noticed my clock in my car was resetting itself but nothing else in the car showed symptoms of loss of battery connection so i thought the clock itself was bad.... Well, luckily today, it did it in front of me when i started the car.. the car sounded like it was in TERRIBLE strain to start and the solenoids in the back kept randomly switching on\off! Then the car started.. Well, since that wasn't normal i inspected it to see what was happening... Keep in mind the OUTPUT section of the solenoids is EMPTY so i was assuming all is well... This is what was happening- The ground on the solenoids had came WAYYYY loose.. it was probably sparking everytime it was requested to turn on.. So when the car is trying to turn over, the solenoids was actually effecting the starter because of loose ground! Oddily enough as that sounds.. it's working fine now... Just thought u guys should know that while the solenoid(s) are in there.. just because nothing is plugged up to them on the other side.. they are still apart of the car as a whole and if not properly wired, can cause havoc under normal operations.

That's it.. I'm tellin Daddy... Mark.. CrazyKenKid is tryin to void my future warranteeeeeeeeeeee

so the new revised ones are the ones on the bottom pic? I can work with it.. just gotta do some tight cutting for the buss bars to fit in those pockets.

I can see why that can be a limiting factor. Theres obviously twice the surface area. But what are other limiting factors to adding a huge H/O alt? Also, will adding a H/O alt or a multiple setup strain the engine? Make it work harder, and in return, more engine noise and less MPG? Work harder, yes, less MPG, yes. More engine noise... not really but maybe a little because the car will push more fuel in and adjust the timing. But remember it takes power to make power. For example, on my 270XP if i dont play my stereo I get 25-28MPG. If I get on it the whole way home from work I will see 19-22MPG. Those are the answers I was looking for! Thanks, I was assuming so, just wanted a confirmation. I've heard ppl putting a smaller pulley to make less ware on the engine, but don't know how much truth there is to that either. But 6 MPG is a big difference for example, most of my commute to work is highway, 25 miles one way. And I'll avg 18-21 mpg, so if I wang it for that 30 minute trip, using your example for comparison, I could potential drop 6 MPG, that could hurt if your not balling and don't care too much for 4$/gallon lol Oops if i'm wrong but wouldnt putting a smaller pulley on make the engine work harder, not less wear and tear? Smaller pulley would cause the alternator to spin faster. That means smaller pulley compared to whatever is "supposed" to be used means the alternator will be putting out more power at a lower rpm than normal... that means more horsepower loss at a lower rpm which means even more sluggish driving while under maximum load. I would NOT put a smaller pulley on anything when buying a new high output alternator. If anything, you would want a larger pulley if you do not like the feel of the car at rpms around ~1000rpm or lower. Larger pulley would drop the output at rated rpm by several amps. The alternator can still produce maximum rated power, just at slightly higher rpm. This isn't exact but an example is the following- If a 270 can do ~240A HOT @1800rpm, Then larger pulley may not output 240A HOT until ~2500rpm for example... Again, not exact math, just randomizin numbers for ya.

We should start a dustcap war.. dont really know how it will work but i heard bubble dustcaps gets the sub closer to the mic which increases potential spl and xmax since it's already protruding... Plus bubble caps give the internals more room to breathe before things might melt down in the lanes! but don't go too big on the cap or you'll lose SD greatly! lol.. let the new wars begin...

Louder on a mic? Maybe, if the Hifonics was significantly overrated or the Crescendo was significantly underrated. Louder to the ear? Not a chance as long as they were both properly set. Enclosure doesn't matter at all in this regard. I'm not looking at getting louder, but at the same time i am, but not on purpose, let me explain... I've messed with a i think it was a bxi 2005d. It's a 2000w hifonics amp.. this thing was complete garbage... The only way to get this amp to do anything decent for an amp claiming power is to crank the gain and some eq on it to max... obviously that's not wise but everybody there at the time fooling around with it trying to figure out why it was not powering the setup all too well... So, the eq boost was turned on which is actually a bass boost and that is what did it.. That is completely retarded to have to use bass boost just to get any sort of decent power out of it. And when i mean it wasn't putting out a lot, seriously.. it compared to about a 4-500w amp prior to increasing bass boost... It didn't make any sense as to why but it did... So... if the OP's amp is similar to this situation.. then by all means change amps because all this bxi2005 did was make the worst flat output power possible... If he thinks i'm siding with him to get louder.. that's not my intentions BUT... based on my experience with one story, it wouldnt surprise me if almost any amp is louder in that power class.

18s tuned that low on minimal box size like that isn't all that smooth.. You may hear it fine, but you won't have that earth shattering bass like you would expect that low.... And.. tuning that low is going to require a LOT of good bracing!

that is what you want to do in Win7 if u do NOT want to see tabbing, lol... and.. i'm not 100% but isn't it impossible to run anything in vista compatibility mode on vista?, lol

so, when i multiply by 12v.. i still have this "v" variable. How do i solve for V? lol, just messin with ya.

I wasn't implying i would go with it.. i was curious if what he was running was too little power or just running junk vs getting something different. Superman- What is your box specs for your 3 18s? You could probably get by with upgrading to more power if you like, maybe, but besides being louder, i have NEVER liked any Hifonics amp. I personally think the BC2000 would be better than the hi2400, maybe not in terms of loudness, but it wouldnt surprise me if the CA was still louder.

Well, after doing some reading, i just found out that Chrome ONLY supports preview tabbing in windows 7 so if it worked in Vista, you were damn lucky when it was working.

ur gonna have to tell us what 18s and what amp u are using now and what one u are looking at

Ok, on behalf of Mac n Cheese on here.. i have now noticed what he was trying to tell us so hopefully this can get fixed soon. For some unknown reason, lol, this sounds funny but i'm not lyin, whenever djjdnap posts anything in a thread, ALL posts proceeding his, the font type and size gets changed to a smaller font. It can get hard to read things many times. I would post a pic of what i'm referring to but djjdnap's sig is 7 monitors long, lmao, and i can't show you what it looks like before and after on the same pic. So all i know is from this point is djjdnap is an IP board font terrorist.

It is easier to test the DCR of a single sub in a multi sub setup if every terminal on every coil is accessible without taking the box apart. I know.. hence, why use bolts? I ran all my wires straight out of my wall, one wire per terminal.. you can parallel, series, parallel\series outside of the wall all day long... Measure DCR, bla bla bla.. All adding bolts does is add resistance.. or for those doing daily and wondering how are they gonna get the wires out of the box.. just run them out of the box... Many people over-complicate things.. even i do sometimes when i'm not used to doing something... I see no reason for adding connection-breaks in line with the speaker wire except to say.. oh yea, i use bolts, there they are.. IT's not about just preventing resistance as it is a waste of time and money to use them... Hell, if someone likes the looks of bolts, just order some specialty copper bolts to go along with the cosmetic look.. might as well go all the way.

what??? 10-35hz? Have u even heard 10hz, LITERALLY? The only time i've ever heard that low is in nice headphones.. never on subs even in home theater... Besides movies, there is no music that low and if u name something, it's either custom made or bass-related... Anyways.. if u are set for 10-35hz.. u will need an amp no powerful than ~800w TOTAL for both subs... The enclosure will need to be HUMUNGOUS to effectively get down that low and the lower power output is required because the subs will want to move very very easily.

the best ones are the ones that are not used at all.. Why use bolts? you have to drill a hole anyway.. why not just run the wire straight through and seal it off... You have to do the same thing with a bolt.. except, with straight wire, no resistance in multiple breaks in connection..

yes

i wouldnt know off hand... But since other programs\windows still work, we can rule out Aero not turned on or functioning properly! First thing i would do is just restart the computer and try again... Maybe a glitch or a temporal out of memory scenario occured without you knowing.

Came across this video of Skyline Park in Germany.. Apparently.. they have a ride here that is ridiculous.. Let's just hope the chain never snaps... And also, let's not forget the longest.. most crazy "virtual built" rollercoaster... IF they built this.. i would SO ride the hell out of it!

be careful.. he might throw it in the port! I remember when i had a street box in my scion running 2 12s on 4400w, i did a 166.3 in the port.

well.. before anyone begins to help you.. u should confirm that you have these first- AGM battery charger DMM (digital Multimeter) plenty of money (around $2k) good understanding of ohms law experience with dealing with electrical systems Once you confirm this.. then i can help you. IT seems you are at the very beginning stages of an install that you are showing you have no common experience or knowledge about... Therefore, to prevent the alternator, battery(ies), sub(s), amp(s) to fail, or the car to catch fire or serious injury to occur... It's wise to make sure you have everything above.

you have to compare 2 products that produce the SAME results... If a Pyle and BTL were purchased for an SPL goal and they both burped the same score, why pay more for the BTL? That is the proper anology.

makes sense, so when what fuse do you reccomend? on the wire amperage limit? or the alts? well... typically user is suppose to fuse according to wire's rated ampacity... However, using a smaller fuse will just make things safer. EXample- lets say user uses 4awg wire. That may be able to handle 150A BUT since the factory wiring is still connected, fuse size doesn't need to be that big if you do not want it too.... If running 100A stock alt, typically fuse size can be around 100-120A factory. User could run 2nd run and fuse anywhere between 60-150A if running 4awg. Smaller the fuse, quicker the pop as long as it doesn't pop all the time because it's too small, know what i mean?

why replace the old wires? Do you not understand the purpose of the Big 3? I think you need to research WHY to do it before asking anymore questions at this point.