shizzzon

if u damage them.. then you do not know what you are doing.. One of my buddies at one of our meetups ran 2 SA-12s on a Saz-3500d for 3min on a lil jon song without problems. I burped an SA-12 once on an AQ3500d. It bottomed out a few times but i still was able to get the score out of it.

Lots more added.. Still adding right now.. got to upload a ton more...

i had\have a request thread in the IAK section of this site.. but if u go in there.. there are quite a bit of songs people posted i havent even got to yet.. I have TONS of songs to listen to first and determine if i want to do them before i run out of my collection and NEED some more to tinker with.

if u bring a single spider with you, fake or not, i'm shooting you with SPF whatever. Then i'll shoot the spider.

no.. a single effective run from alt to front battery is FINE. about 90% of the current supply will come from the rear battery bank and alternator alone. VERY little comes from the front battery. Therefore it's common sense not to attempt to feed the front battery tons of wire from the alternator. The only reason why you would have multi runs off the front batt to the rear is if u are using that wire for the purpose of getting the back batts a charge off the alternator. Alternator's post isn't as large so u can run more wire off a battery than you can directly off of an alternator. Now.. when it comes to 2 ground runs... that should be ran DIRECTLY from the alternator's case to the back, not from the front batt... Doing it this way can help voltage a little if it isn't perfect under load right now. I also forgot to add.. a short run of 2/0 (less than 8ft) of power off a 270XP is plenty to supply power to the back via 2 power runs from front batt. no need in doubling up... Single run of kolossus cable or kicker cable is fine. any other brand, doubling up may be necessary to prevent resistance.

I use winISD very(very) loosely for a BP design. A lot of times the peaks that it shows doesn't seem to translate into reality for whatever reason. I've tried this with a few small-scale designs that had a 9-12db peak in winISD but ended up not being bad at all...personal experience and being able to predict the performance based on a similar spec'd sub seems to be the better route to go IMO. I'm just stating what I have found to be the case. I know people will say "but look at the peak in winISD!!!!11!one"...I love winISD, but it isn't perfect, I don't care what anyone says. It does seem to be quite accurate with ported boxes though. I've changed boxes and metered them to see if the db differences between the graphs translated to real life, and it was pretty close. lol, yea.. I want to jump into the bandpass bandwagon with some knowledge and get my own experience as i build and test.... I guess time will tell whenever i decide to do it..

ah.. so do you actually model bandpass designs or is the enclosure specs based on customer preference too? I am curious about modeling bandpass because i do not know if the modeling in WinISD is actually accurate compared to other designs winIsd can do. Reason i say that is WinISD has no preset alignments for bandpasses which makes me wonder if it's accurate on it's predictions...

Keep checking the first post.... i've been adding quite a bit!

i know u are the designer and all that.. but i have one question... Why is the port down thie middle in a T form rather than flat and to the side?

great! I will start uploading lots more and putting next to each song what it's peak range is so you guys can get what fits your install!

jason keeps showing me pics of his build.. now he's done with it.. He better come to slamology this year or i'm callin photoshoppin in his truck!

i'm sure we all do it different but to keep it simple i guess, this is what i do- If using mdf or any other type of porous wood, use multi coats. It usually takes me 3 coats on mdf to get a solid color going on. I sand with 100grit, paint, sand with 150grit, paint, sand with 300grit, paint, then sand with something very light.. 500grit or higher and that's it. As far as what paint.. i can't even remember, i havent actually rolled on paint in so long. there are many ways to do it... that's just the way i do it.

You know, depending on how old your car is.. DON'T RUN OUT OF GAS! With how high gas is right now, trying to make a claim on your insurance because you ran out of gas may end up getting your car totaled!

I guess David was so excited that he forgot to tell you all.. DAVID IS GOING TO SLAMOLOGY! I don't think Jason is going because of a spider, lmao....

i run mine @0.5ohm but not like people expect... I run mine at extremely low volumes.. Only at comps do i unleash it's power but daily.. i be lucky if it outputted more than 25v per amp on my 5500ds!

OK, try these two, the second one is a rock song. Jamie Madrox - Get Em Shinedown - Left Out those 2 songs are in the 35hz-40hz range..

oh i know where to get them.. mid to high 30s.. hmm.. i'll post a new song here in just a few minutes

edouble, tell me a frequency or small range that you think u may need a song to peak at or around? IF you could import some of those songs from decaf u mentioned in to audacity and tell me where they peak at, i'll go thru and see which ones peak around there. Yes, many songs i make are very low tuned but when i originally started doing this, most songs only dropped to the low 30s so you may want those instead.

yea, every now and then, i like to venture off lyrical music and enjoy some orchestra style music with an added twist.

u know what i'm gonna say... Even in your description, it said if you do not know how to use an oscope.. implying buy this device for the same price as an oscope if you feel like you are too retarded to learn.

is it this?

I think i'm gonna get chewed out for this one, lol...

XS Power's site has this version- And the SSA store has this version- As you can see, the top one is flatter, easier to buss bar... Let me know somethin.

while i've never done one (i'll never do one in a vehicle of my own.. i'm too spl oriented.. maybe in a house oneday, though), i am pretty sure that the driver used, it's SD value on average is the area opening inside throughout the whole design... It appears that there IS a loading chamber directly behing the motor for 2 reasons.. 1- the area inside is way larger than the port area... 2- notice how i said port area.. Now.. correct me if i'm wrong but i believe t-line is an average of the SD value of the sub throughout entire t-line and the length is based on 1\4wave when choosing desired frequency? if not, tell me.. just curious. also, does any bends inside require to be tapered and why?

go to sears, buy u an agm duralast battery charger with following specs- 2A slow, 15A, 40A fast, 120A jumpstart. They are around $90. unhook ALL batts in the vehicle, power and ground, completely isolate them from ALL connections. Charge each batt up separately. At how low you say thet are, it should take AT LEAST 8hrs to charge each battery. If any one of them takes lets say 3hrs or less at a rest of under 12v.. then it's damaged and u can prove this by measuring voltage at battery every 30min or having auto zone prove it to you. Notice how i'm not advising auto zone to charge ur batts? Everybody who uses extra batts in their vehicle needs their own battery charger as batts need to be charged every once in a while.. Preferrably once every 1-4 weeks is when i do mine, regardless of how much alternator power you have.