shizzzon

trust me.. ANY AGM battery, regardless of capacity(which is good practice for safe operation) that is resting at 12.6v or lower needs to be COMPLETELY disconnected from car and charged via AGM battery charger. No if ands or buts.. trust me on this. An alternator is a MAINTAINER, not battery charger. Alternator is suited to maintain the charged capacity of your batteries installed. If it tried to be used as a charger, the Bridge Rectifier inside if worked for too long can overheat and start burning out diodes... If this happens.. u are done... seriously.. alternator slowly dying... So don't do that. If u need advice on a good charger, let me know. Sears sells one locally for around $90 that i personally own that works GREAT!

Hard to find HD backgrounds u say? I own the entire Digital Blasphemy Collection which is a LOT of backgrounds all in HD. I even have some of their animated HD backgrounds which is insane. If you want some killer backgrounds, look them up.

Well, i can tell you the battery, alternator and connection from alt to batt and connection from batt to factory power wire is solid. I get no drop in voltage measuring all over the terminals or the post on the battery when the terminals are removed. I've been leaning towards ignition switch too since i do have a remote start if this problem persists... i havent checked the fuses under the hood but that's easy to do.. Once i remove the solenoids, if it keeps doing it, i'll check those things.

Of course i must only do one thing at a time... I have started and shut off the car multiple times and drove it few minutes ago.. No odd problems yet.. autozone couldnt pull any codes off of it if there are any because there tester is damaged, lol. But.. a guy there did inform me that even though i disconnected the ground off the solenoids to go back and remove all wiring from them.. He thinks it's possible that solenoids could back feed thru the cables (which uses both ignition and constant on) and cause havoc. So tonight or tomorrow i'm going to remove the entire solenoid system since i will not be using it anymore anyways.

well.. on my way home from work today, my tire pressure sensor came on for 2 seconds then went right back off.. Nothing else happened, no surge, no other electrical things happened... AND, when TPS does get triggered.. it never goes off on it's own so i don't know what was up with that... I took the battery terminals off, cleaned the post off with wire brush, cleaned inside of the terminals and put it back together... the battery posts have a bright shiny surface to them but also looks like something was attached to them and turned round and round both posts creating grooves all in them. The brush just made the posts shine more so i did a light brushing on them. There were no signs of arcing inside the terminals at all, completely clean in there.

mine are installed right behind the kick panels. If you do not have room there, shove them up under the dash on both sides of the car.

note- never mount crossover in the door. this is a rule followed by all proper mobile installers precisely for this reason. There are drain holes in doors to allow water to fall thru and drain out.. no electronics should be mounted inside this area.

well.. the reason why the alt may have been putting out high 150s only might be because that's all the demand there was from it... It's typical, nothing wrong with current side. I still say either the regulator or that module they tied into it is screwed up.

So what did u guys think of all those sexy pics of me? Lmao..

batteries are ALWAYS live... Put in fuses before you start the car. Also.. install fuses last before starting car...meaning leave fuses out but go ahead and ground everything. That way, the circuit will complete in the fuse holder. IF there is any arcing from a grounding power wire, it's best that it be in the fuse holder rather than at the battery itself.

honestly, the current terminals i use sucks ass.. I'm gonna fab up some flat run of aluminum and use that as battery terminals and see if it fixes problem. For protecting the aluminum against it grounding out, do i just spray paint over the aluminum after all terminals are in place?

oooh.. i wouldnt have done that.. You should ask me first before spending money.. that's why i exist, lol. there are MANY ways to upload pics to PB... sometimes one way wont work eventually.. alternatives are there.. I've had issues with them before.. they eventually fix it.. For my problem, it took them 2 months but they did it....

haha, no i fixed it before i left because the timing was off...

word of advice.. you cannot just swap subs and the other one be audibly louder.... Subs are not that different from one to another. You know, one of my comp buddies loudest setup was using a single Alpine Type R... Since then, he's tried AQ HDC, Fi BTL, DD 9500... They were all metering less than 1db from each other... That isn't audible.. The box and tuning has a greater effect than what sub you use.

i dont think it's that high but i cant remember really what your estimated price would be...

when compared to a 4" bl loaded, bout same price.

yep.. i'll be running a 5500d @0.5ohm per xl on this build i'm doin right now.

wtf? I'm not going to backtrack your math down to almost a billionth.. Human error is by far more inaccurate than calculations... Simplify this better. I'll make it easy for you- Internal dimensions- Height, width, depth. Multiply those 3 in unit of inches and divide by 1728. Now take displacement of port, both subs and bracing and subtract from answer above. Also- if u want destructive lows.. 3-3.25cuft net for these 2 10s would be killer. Going with 2.5cuft is still fine though.

i'll help you out.. The Level4s handled 7,000w on multiple burps without harm. Running 7,000w of power to them for daily, eh... they will last 10 seconds before the coils start to stink. So there you go, 7x the rated power. Peak my ass...

So.. where is the box at? lol.. ok.. well, you'd be mounting it where flat surfaces are. IF there are flat areas right under the box, look and see if you can access the flooring area under the car at those points.. regardless of where it's at, you have to make sure you don't drill into something, you would be drilling out of the floor into nothing else. Use plenty of silicone to prevent rust and bolt\nut the enclosure down.

where is ur box at?

either that or he's in jail for allegedly killing his passenger with a khaotik enclosure... Doesn't sound good at this point.

well.. u shouldnt ask me since i'm competitor biased and don't daily my stuff like other people do... I ran 6 3500ds on stock alternator and 2 batteries for a few months in my scion... My definition of daily is on very low power so electrical system upgrades for me daily is almost pointless. Like i said, it's all in how you play it.

lol, any sub company can get loud... There is nothing special about any one sub company that i can think of that would make them the best for spl. DC is popular because of what you get for the price, there many lines to choose from(they had 3 non-published lines, now they have 2, Neo and Level6), great custom addons and mods that can be done, customer service, and the fact that you are buying something that is not cheapily built, something that is just as strong as any other decent company's product.

you should do the Big 3 and nothing else.. Monitor your system the way you play it and that will determine where and how your voltage and battery capacity is effected..