shizzzon

As far as i know, nobody said playing music was impossible... These subs have a very, and i mean very sharp roll off. They remind me of AQ HDC3s in terms of projected response. That means they were\are designed to be peaky, very peaky. So when playing music on them, they will audibly roll off around 8-15hz above tuning and say bye bye to frequencies above that. The N2s are suggested for smooth accurate playback so a user doesn't have that peaky sound. Now, if a user likes the peakyness, then there is no problem.

because T3 is retarded... Long story short.. equipment doesn't alter output by that much... T3 screwed up in the past big time.. so they changed equipment too to compensate on their marketing strategy.

hold on now.... Get back on your computer.. When your computer starts to act slow, do this- Go to bottom of screen that uses the same frame border as the start button. In an empty area in this bar, right click and choose task manager. go into Performance tab look near the bottom. It will say total memory on the right = xxxxxxx MB On the left, it will say something like peak memory xxxxxx MB IF the PEAK memory has EVER surpassed the total installed memory when running slow, then yes, more RAM is definitely better.

how will replacing the hard drive make it run faster? What are you trying to go faster?

curious as to what u mean by "LOW" in your savings... No need to tell us publicly but if it's expected to take around 9 months before you can return to work.... you might want to keep that in mind when you are spending money...

When you say "stay safe"... can I still have unprotected sex??? Hell NO! We aint havin sex protected or not... that's not the proper way for us to bond on our bday

what was your electrical system and what size stetsom is that? What were u doing when it did that?

yes and yes The end.. again.

i know how those amps are strapped. run rcas from headunit to Amp #1 Amp #1 needs to be set to MASTER Run single rca line from amp #1 to amp #2 (the strap output from master to strap input on slave) Amp #2 needs to be set to SLAVE Turn all settings on SLAVE all the way down (not necessary but doesn't hurt) Master controls both amp's settings. Now, each amp has 2 sets of + and - speaker terminals. Take BOTH - terminals from MASTER and run them to the SLAVE's - terminals, both of them! Now, you have 2 + and 2 + on master and slave. It doesn't really matter which is which but i'll make you choose for this example. The MASTER's remaining + terminals ARE positive output. The SLAVE's remaining + terminals ARE negative output. The End

Kickers are more efficient than Sundown amps... As a matter of fact, many long time sundown amp owners will even tell you that sundown isn't the most efficient amps they have used.. It's nothing bad, it's not like they are class ab efficient, hehe, but they are not on the top of the list of efficiency. You want some REAL efficient amps... Stetsom is by far the most efficient. Cadence and Kicker are way up there too.

this is getting blown WAY out of proportion... Get your setup installed, THEN monitor and measure voltage drop, quit playing the speculation or guessing game. When you see your voltage dropping below 13v more often then not when jamming WHILE driving, then get a 2nd batt back there from XS Power. IF your voltage is still dropping below 13v WHILE driving, get an alt around 180A, but no lower from DC Power or Mechman.

lol, that's the factory wire harness, not the charging line... Read up on sending 90A of current safely through a wire.. those little ones aren't going to do it. And most stock wiring configs force the alternator to ground through brackets, not wiring. So, for a good experience lesson, take a DMM, set it to DC volts. Put power probe on that large terminal on the alernator and ground probe on ground post on battery. IF it reads voltage, tada! that is your power charging cable post on alternator which i can guarantee you it is anyway.

more than likely no because the front battery rarely ever gets used for the car audio equipment in the rear when at least one or more batts in the rear are used.

your pics are NOT public so it's useless to us..

first off.. how do you know your remote wire is grounding? 2nd, is your voltmeter connected to your amp? If it is then what pwoer and remote wire connected together makes the voltmeter work? the meter or amp? u also have commas in wrong places which makes your sentences unable to be read so i can't comprehend most of it.

so where is this pic at? Either your alternator is TEENY TINY, this adapter is freakin humungous, or you are looking at it wrong.

um dual 1 ohm cant be wired at 1ohm so he's looking at the right type of amp...

i'm assuming these speakers were attached to the headunit? That's partly why they would distort right there.. not enough amp on those speakers. Also, any increase of the bass or EQ settings on headunit will greatly distort them.

yea, if i choose to use SSF, i'll take my tuning, and use a test tone about 10hz below that. Turn SSF all the way UP, headunit to max playable volume. While tone is playing, i start slowly turning it down until either sub bottoms out, i do not want it moving any more, or to prevent it from breaking out of xmax... whatever ur goal is.

Have a Fintastic Birthday!

i just wanted to let you all know that as of last saturday thru tuesday, my car had malfunctioned at least once every day... I then wire brushed the battery posts and ring terminals. The ring terminals looked fine before i did it and the battery posts really didnt change appearance after brushing them.. But after plugging everything back up, i havent had a problem within the last three days and i've started\shutdown and drove it a LOT since then without faults! So.. unless i post back in here about a problem, it appears an invisible layer on the battery posts was the problem.

I don't know what the problem is, i'm just thinking it's ignition based. Bout 45 days ago, i got in my car and noticed the clock was reset. reset meaning battery disconnected and reconnected... when this happens it will start off at 1:00. I didn't know why it did that so i forgot about it. 1 Week later, it did it again.. but this time i was in the car when it did it. It did it WHILE i was starting the car. Things installed in the car currently- Viper alarm with immobilizer bypass and remote start. 200A solenoid (ignition turn on wire tapped off of ignition wire from radio). When it did it when i was in it, i could hear the solenoid in the back rapidly for that 1sec switching on and off... So i thought the solenoid was the problem.. Long story short, i have disconnected the solenoid and it still happens so solenoid is not the problem... 30days later (it has still been doing this in 1 week intervals.. IT HAS ALSO done it as soon as shut the car off too!) So now we are up to recently, within the past 5 days- Now my clock resets almost every 2 days but it's getting slightly worse. Worse means when my clock resets, now my AC controls and headunit settings are reset also, like a full loss of power in a split second?!?! 3 days ago- i get in the car, the clock is OFF when car is off.. then is rapidly came on and went off again.. I put key in car and turn it to ignition mode only, clock came on and stayed on along with all other electronics?!?! ^^ That has only happened once. That same day, i started the car up and let it set on idle for bout 20sec... After that, car just died, no stutter, shake nothing.. just died as if i turned the key off.. Nothing reset, electrical was fine at that time. I started it up and drove off. That same night, while i was driving, i got 2 sets of BEEP codes coming from under the dash... One was beeping 5 times then stopped. The other was a constant beep for about 3 seconds then stopped... This beeping is like when the door is open when key is in ignition for example. Something like that. Now today, i get in it, start it up, as soon as is turned over, it dropped REAL low like it was about to stall out in 1-2seconds then came back up to it's stock idle and ran fine... wtf is happening here? I have appointment with shop who installed alarm and remote starter saturday but they say they highly doubt it's their product\install based on what all is happening with the car... Dealer wants $90\hr to diagnose from scratch... Give me something to do, ideas, anything because if it keeps getting worse.. it might not start up or might die while i'm driving.. either way.. i need this fixed asap.. My build is halted until this problem is completely resolved.

Sounds like tinsel leads are the weakest link.. yet again. I would contact FI or PSI about reconing this sub.. FI uses some damn good flatwound leads and PSI can get u hooked up with Quad leads as well...

YES, and imperative that u understand the following- While disconnected... if these batts keep dropping.. no charger will help.. Batts that keep dropping have at least one bad cell and any batt that has any bad cell(s) needs to be discarded immediately... Sorry, but i'm only trying to save you money.. It may not seem like it if ur batts will or are doing this but no good batt continues to drop rest voltage unless it's bad...

I'm gonna try and set your hopeful answer right... Performance AND sound quality.. that's hard to do.. I've never heard a BL in person but i do know that FI focuses on sound quality first, numbers second...if u know what i mean. With that in mind.. it's hard to answer your question. I don't disrespect FI's goals as they are what they should be but i think you may be expecting to find something that may not exist. Basically, if you find something that fits this thread, then your definition of sound quality doesn't equal FI's or mine or others who did not post...