bass_lover

Your situation sounds like an installation issue. There's no good reason that a speaker playing "higher" would sound muddy, will it have a natural roll off? Yes, most definitely. Is it going to muddy up the sound? Very unlikely, however, panel resonations can affect that which is why I believe it's an installation issue. Your feeling about my substage is completely off base, a single 12 running of 3-400 watts can easily be over powered by my front stage, I actually have to turn the sub out off then back on to remember that its actually playing. I'm not saying what the general car audio population does is wrong, but I don't like seeing misinformation spread about, there is no good reason a sub shouldn't or cant play up to 100hz and I really wish some of you had the opportunity to hear the other end of the spectrum. I'll never come close to winning SPL competitions, but I don't care about that, but I do have a very accurate sub stage that I would imagine 99% of you would be please with how it sounds (probably just want more output ).

I don't understand why people have this notion that a sub should not play above a certain frequency, and that it's a good idea to have your midbass play down to 50hz. Let's think about this, do you honestly think a 6.5" midbass is going to be able to match output levels of a 12" subwoofer at 50hz, 70hz, 100hz? Not only that, but having a midbass play down to 50hz creates a lot of unwanted work, you now have to deaden the shit out of your doors because they're going to buzz like crazy. I too used to have midbass that could play to 50hz, hell they could play to 40hz without issue (Peerless SLS 6.5"), but that added a lot of annoyances with door resonances. I did my own little test on this, and it turns out your mind likes to play tricks on you. My sub was playing from 20hz-100hz and I had my midbass crossed @ 50hz then I moved it to 63hz, and then to 80hz, and then again to 100hz. Guess what, the sound didn't change one bit. The over all stereo, sounded exactly the same with midbass playing @ 50hz as it did @ 100hz. You think it's louder because you feel the vibrations up front in your pant legs and your sideviews shake like crazy, yet there is no added benefit to this what so ever. I think what ends up happening is a lot of users enjoy the bloated lowend from 30-50hz that a lot of installs offer, they then assume that the driver is horrible above that point but in reality its that bloated lowned that really kills it. Most subs can play up to 100hz w/o issue, but it's the install and tunning that makes or breaks it.

Sounds good. Have you used them in a similar application? Anyone else have anything to ad?

I'm lookin to run a pair of Q 10s eventually but I'm just wondering if anyone has experience using them in a smallish sized ported enclosure? .7 cubic feet to be exact, 10 sq inches of ported, tuned to 30hz...per driver of course. Thanks in advance.

Since my mind never stops working, I've decided I will not be going with Fi drivers. Instead however, I will be using Dayton again, going with the HO 10s this time around. I already have an idea of what they will sound like, since I've used the 12" version before (the motor is still sitting behind me), and they can be had for a GREAT price, so to me this seems like the logical choice. As an added bonus, w/ the money I get from the XXX, I can purchase the 2 Daytons, and still have cash left over for a well built box, makes sense from every angle here. And since they only weigh 12 lbs each, I'm shedding that weight that I wanted to get rid of. Thanks for your thoughts guy

Well I've narrowed it down to either Q or SSD 10s...now the hard part is deciding between the two. SQ is my first concern, and I'd like to save some space and weight, does anyone have the weight of these drivers off hand?

When the DIYMA forum gets back on its feet (server swap) post a WTB for a Next Audio VRz4.400. I just sold mine for 180+shipping. Very high quality amp, supposedly made by Audison, and I don't doubt that from the quality. It will allow you to run active, has fully active x-overs from 50-5khz hp and lp. Great amp small foot print, 4x82@4ohms. I assume by the Sundown amp, you mean the SAX 100.4, if thats the case, there are many amps out there that can do what you want for less than 450 bucks...not knocking the quality of the Sundown, as I don't have experience with it, but you have MANY options if that's the price range.

Har har... Ya I've already got 3 layers of RAMMat on my front doors. It's more so that someone else could get better use of it than me, but the weight is an issue as well. Plus I can get some of my trunk back going to 2 10s.

98 VW Passat 1.8T is what I drive, I've decided to tune it more, and want to shed some weight, also I feel it would be better used by someone that actually listens to a lot of bass heavy music, I don't so I feel like I'm wasting it. The single Dayton HO 12 that it replaced, was plenty of output for me, the XXX is even more so, but I just don't need it. Yea, I'm tryin to find someone that will trade me two SSD 10s, but haven't found anyone yet. Might just end up selling the XXX and buying the SSDs from Fi, or Shawn, which ever.

I've looked into the SS RL-i, but I really want to try something different, I'm not much of a fan of TC...though I do enjoy their underhung motors, sadly they are very hard to find these days.

I'd go with these tweeters instead http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...products_id=633 Still SEAS drivers, but the metal domes are usually preferred over the fabric on the DIYMA forums. For mids, take a look at these http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...products_id=789 Though, they are 7s so they will probably require modifications to the door, and they are also a bit deep, so they more than likely wont clear your motor w/o spacers. I do recommend spacers regardless if they are needed or not, having the speaker mounted to an MDF ring greatly reduces resonations caused by the driver being mounted directly to a metal door panel.

I'm currently running an 05 XXX 15 in a sealed 2.2 cubic foot enclosure, power by my Linear Power 2.2HV @ 8ohms...I'd guess about 800 watts rms. The output is great, however, the added weight of a 55lb driver and I guess another 20-30 for the box is whats killing me. So I think I've decided to run 2 10s or 2 8s, though good 8s are hard to find, and I don't want to run an Rl-i, I've used TC products before and weren't too impressed with them. I'm kinda leaning towards an Icon or SSD/Q, but am having a hard time deciding. I listen to heavy metal, so large amounts of output are not truly necessary, but it is nice every once and a while...and by that I mean maybe 5 mins a week. I plan to run sealed, to save some trunk space, as well as weight. Basically, I'm looking for something that fits the following criteria: 1) SQ is my main concern, I didn't spend 600 dollars getting my front stage where I wanted it, for no reason. I want a very accurate and detailed driver, something that WILL blend well with my front stage. 2) Wont break the bank, was looking at about 400 total, or if I'm lucky find someone that has said drivers and is willing to trade. I do not mind buying used. 3) Uses smallish sealed boxes, less than 1 cube per driver is preferred. 4) Dual 2 configuration, the LP runs more efficient @ 8ohms, with hardly a reduction in power. Oh and if it matters, my current setup is: Pio 880PRS LPG 26NA Peerless HDS Nomex 7s Diamond Audio D3 400.2 (2) Linear Power 2.2HV Thanks in advance every one.

I don't have experience with the Exclusives, but my HDS Nomex drivers I guess you could consider their fraternal twin. Specs are very similar, a big difference that is noticeable by looking is the HDS does not have a phase plug, and supposedly the Exclusive has more shorting rings in the motor, however it's been discussed over on DIYMA that the extra rings probably don't make that much of an audible difference. I enjoy the HDS mids very much, they have excellent midbass, and midrange is very good up till about 4k-4.5k where it starts to naturally roll off, most small format tweeters can easily pick up from there. Oh, and don't let the 6.5" spec on madisound fool you, it's a true 7" driver.

I personally look for a low inductance, like as close to 1.0 mH as possible, and lower is better imo. A flat BL curve is nice too. A flat BL curve indicates that the driver's t/s parameters will vary less throughout the driver's operating range of motion, usually leads to less distortion as well. On a personal note, I like a driver w/ a Qts around .4 and an EBP of around 50, these aren't really strictly for SQ drivers, but it just tells me that the box that I need to build isn't going to be huge, and it will work rather well sealed or ported. I'm sure there's exceptions to this, but it's just something I'll look at, but again you're not going to know what it sounds like by reading specs on the internet.

I think he said in a classified post that he has going over on ca.com that he had to go out of town for the weekend, so I don't know if he'll see this or not.