Mathman

Ok, I am used to building the everyday run of the mill square sealed boxes. I have a 4 door truck with the 60/40 split seat, which I will be removing the 40 section and building a box with an upward firing sub...but I am thinking of porting this one. My question is, can I run ports out of PVC that sit about 2" inside the box and run external under the other part of the seat? Trying to think of some options to possibly install a 15" BL instead of a 12. And the volume of the pvc pipe should be equivalent to the total recommended port in the BL specs correct?

Avoid that website, they have horrible reviews....4.1/10

So, I am getting ready to buy a box from a friend that is made for a 2008 F150 super crew (which is what i have)...however, the box is carpeted in a fuzzy gray carpeting and my interior is black. Is it ok to just rip the carpet off and recarpet it? Also, if I decided I didnt want to recarpet in black, is it ok to sand the parts of the box that you will see down some, apply some light layers of resin to harden it, sand it down and paint it? I have never done this, but I think it will give the nicest look. Thanks

Thanks for the quick reply M5....okay then, i will probably just fill any holes then sand and paint the front of it. Probably be a lot easier and cheaper to do this anyhow.

Okay, now I have looked over some stuff I am a little interested in Passive Radiators....What would be a good PR to use with a Fi Q? Would I also need to double the cone area for PR's...ie. 2 10" PR's for 1 10" sub? I read somewhere that you would need to double it.

Sooo, I am now in the process of designing my box for a single 10" sub down firing in a ported enclosure. I got the rough idea for the design from those AudioFire boxes for trucks. The sub will be down firing right behind the center console, the main box will go up to right above the rear seat from the ground, the port would then go from the box to the back of the seat and do a 90 degree and back towards the front seat. So, the port is going to be pretty much external from the main portion of the box....my question is, how do I go about figuring out the tuning frequency of this port? It is going to be a fairly thin port but pretty long and I am just not to sure. At the moment I am planning on using either a Q or BL. I have a RF1000.1 to use. Thanks for the help

so, for me to use my 10" sub, I would then need 2 additional 10" PR's....is that correct? does it require any additional airspace to use PR's?

I've never done anything with passive radiators, yet alone heard pretty much anything about them. Not 100% on them, but I will look up some stuff and read up more on them.

That is exactly why I wanted to put the port outside the box, would be easier to design. Passive Radiator, ehhhh. I'm just lookin for something decently easy to build that will get very loud for Truckaudioman while he is out of commission. slowly workin on his truck....been tough, 82 hrs weeks at work.

There should be enough height. I'm pretty sure the Ram bed is a little higher than my F150, and it is 20" tall. 6 15's, what are you gonna do, a Pac Man type enclosure?

pushin 1k watts i would probably go with either the Q or BL over the SSD though.

just go to soundsolutionsaudio.com, there is a little button up to that says box tools and it will help you design it with whatever diameter port your going to use. put in what you want the tuning to be and the diameter along with the box info and sub displacement and it gives you the length it needs to be.

One more quick question....if I want my port to be external, do I have to have any part of the port inside of the box or can I literally build it directly off the box? I was hopin to build it onto the box, but if I have to put it inside the box some then so be it. Thanks

Ok, I will be googling how to do fiberglass work soon enough....but i just wanted a general concensus of about how tough it can be....I want to build a L type sealed enclosure going from the floor in the back seat of a friends truck and into the center portion of his seat. I would like to do it in fiberglass and just wanted a general idea of about how much work i am in for. Is it okay to have like 90% of the enclosure to be mdf? I just need the top portion to be fiberglass so i can angle the subs to where i want them to point. Also, it is okay for 2 subs to be in a common chamber isnt it? I thought it was, just wanna make sure. Thank You

I gotta figure all that out, I am just trying to get a rough idea, I would like it tuned to about 34 Hz, and after checking out a few quick sketches I am fairly sure the port would need to be around 2"x11". i will play around on thanksgiving and get some better measurements to throw up on here, so i guess till then no worries.

so if i were going with a 2" port in height, width could be no more than 16", correct? also, i am going to have a pretty long port and the box calculator isnt letting me design a 12" wide box with 18" of port length, unless you know of another box calculator that allows the option for longer ports that go outside the box. at the moment, a rough estimate of the port would be like 2"x11" for the actual port, but the length would probably be pushing around 28".

That is fantastic, thanks Jason907

cool, ty. And do you just put a few layers of resin on the mdf to sand down and paint?

What is a really good 8" sub whose depth is between 5.25" and 5 7/8".....enclosure will be .6 cu per sub. I will be running 2 of them and already have a 1k watts amp, so if they can handle 500 watts each that would be fantastic.

check out supercrewsound.com, they sell some seat risers on that website....its like $150 and raises it like 2.5".....reason I kinda want to avoid this is that it makes the seat to where it will no longer fold....something I really dont want.

Ok, so Mark from Supercrew Sound just told me that it only has 1 1/4" clearance under the box, so I am going to have to install some seat risers....at this point, not to sure how I am gonna do this. I might just stay to my original plan and install the lift and build the box myself, with upfiring subs and little leather "pillows" around the box to prevent any wear/tear on the bottom of my seats when they are down.I will almost always have my seats up, so if I can just get a little, like 2" lift somehow, I figured I can keep them from hitting with the seats down (just wont crank it as loud). Only other option available is using some 8" subs or shallow subs.....and I have no experience with either of these.

Soooo, after tons of researching and trying to figure out what I want to use in my boys truck....I think I have settled on getting 2 10" IXL's.....one question though, and I do apologize. I am very new to all of this and usually pay someone to just do all my stuff, but this time I will be building the box and such, which I can figure out. My question is power, at the moment I have a RF10001...1000 watts at 1 Ohm, will this be enough to push these subs or do I need something better/bigger? I would love to stay with just this for power reasons, but I will do what I have to obviously...may just have to get a bigger underhood battery and alt, which I am trying to avoid. They will be sealed with roughly be 0.6 cubes

okay....i think i just screwed up i hope not. Here is the box I was looking at...from Supercrewsound.com. Fits two 8 or 10 inch subwoofers Subwoofers fire down MDF Construction Air Space = .60 cubic foot per sub Mounting Depth = 5.25 inches (optional 5 7/8" available below) Box divider with two speaker terminals Jack must be removed Hole cutout for 8" Sub = 7" Hole cutout for 10" Sub = 9 1/8" 1 1/4" clearance under box Soooo, if there is only 1 1/4" clearance under the box, I am probably pretty screwed on using the IXL10's aren't I? I really wanted to put in some seat risers and make it so I can fold the seat up, but I dont think the seats will fold up after I install the lift, but I will find out and update this as soon as they get back to me.

nope, you are not missing a thing....like I said, I usually get people to do all my installations so I was trying to find out if that amp would work or not, if not, I could get a different amp....what amp would you suggest would be great for pushing 2 of those? Any input would be fantastic. esp from you denim and m5....THANKS.

Honestly, I have been doing some 8th time measurements under the seat...and I beleive with a 2.5" seat raiser I could probably even fit a couple 12" Q's in there. Gotta check how many cubes I can get per 12, but I think it will work....I do need to go over it one or two more times...I know the 10" Q's will fit, so I may not need to worry about using a 8. Note: Truckaudioman is doing pretty good. He is going through hopefully his last surgery today. Fun Times, Fun Times.....he is not a happy camper right now.