nadcicle

I personally don't care for giant rims. Nor do I care for giant tires. It's about finding the right fit and to me it was some 17" stocks with wider tire from a newer 2007 model. I'll grab pics shortly. Of course we all have our opinions, and the only real set of rims I wouldn't mind having are black with chrome ring offset in xd or rocks tars. Nothing at all, I just want it to look a little better then that... Mine for reference. Forgive it being dirty.

I personally don't care for giant rims. Nor do I care for giant tires. It's about finding the right fit and to me it was some 17" stocks with wider tire from a newer 2007 model. I'll grab pics shortly. Of course we all have our opinions, and the only real set of rims I wouldn't mind having are black with chrome ring offset in xd or rocks tars. Nothing at all, I just want it to look a little better then that...

For the asking price I would add the aq3500 in the mix. It tends to hold its own as well in that range.

Lookin good. Definitely a sucker for the Chevy CK's.

At first glance the regular SP4 doesn't come with a spider spacer. That should be the easiest to tell.

Order# 6507 here. I live in Nashville, TN and my order is out for delivery in Norwood, NY with an ETA of June 7th. However, Norwood is also the origin. Not sure if my tracking matches up or it is going to miracle itself here today lol

Imma go out on a limb and say it's not at the 6volt position and at the 3/4 position instead.

I heard if you want the dB's you must turn up the bass boost.

Good stuff guys!

I would see this as an opportunity to go forth with a 5.3 or 6.0 V8 swap if you've ever thought of doing one. Or find a low mileage 4.3 that looks clean internally. After working on bearing work you are going to wish you just changed the entire engine out anyways in the long run.

I would check to see if you are sharing a ground between the amps and unhook the kinetik in the back and test voltage with/without it hooked up to test if you have voltage coming from the front and test continuity from your ground point to the amp to make sure you aren't getting any extra resistance.

For 15 minutes of fun you should get vidrhythem

Most people wouldn't pursue getting an amp strong enough to push the max RMS wattage as they've already spend around 500 on a sub. I can see most setups getting stuck with nothing more than a 2k amp. I imagine a lot of people just let the sub sit forever or sell it once they find out the cost of a quality 3k amp to push the thing.

Check out this video of how to hear clipping. Door dinging kinda sucks though.

Final result. Blown sub = 0 | Me = 1 1 down 2 more to go!

Well this weekend has been eventful. I was sure I wasn't going to have enough time to do all 3 and I was correct in my assumption. However, I took a giant stab at it and have took some pics along the way. I have been doing this a little at a time so if you have any advice then by all means. This is my first attempt at reconing any sub and I will be the first to tell you that if anyone uses as much glue as what came on these things then just let someone else do it if the price is negligible. It's different if the sub/motor is worth reconing to begin with, but what the hell I need to learn anyway right? So to start things off let's take a look at the culprits. Ok, seems harmless. So let's take a closer look at those 3 drop in's. Well, this one seems a little bent outta shape upon closer inspection. Nothing a point finger and thumb couldn't fix though. This one was the best out of the bunch with no bents or blemishes at all. If you look close at this one you can see a waviness of the sort at the base of the former. With extreme precision and a pair of needlenosed pliers I managed to piss myself off a few times. Then I set it down and came back and tried again and got it straight as possible. Now it's time to tear these things apart and see what the problem is. You should probably know that I ran 2 20k watt toasters pushing these 3 subs. Who knew right..? Seriously though, low voltage + clipped music + bad tuning = this. This is where things started to unravel.. lol i kill myself. You should know that these spider landings are reinforced with super duper hurricane resistant gorilla glass glue. Meaning, you better come prepared if you wanna remove the glue. Kinda jumping around as I didn't take many pics to start off with, but this is what I tried getting the glue off with to begin with. Let's just say hell no to the chisel idea. So after another run to the freight of harbor I come back with these little wire discs. Now these should of been where I started, but ok I learned my lesson and know better now. Take a look at the landing after using this thing. Wow right? I'm sure there has to be a better way than using even the discs. Funny thing is using a full size drill with the damn thing. I was holding the battery in the air and hitting it at an angle. My arm is sore as hell cause this took quite a while. However, here is the final result. I'm kind of thinking about using one of these for the top, but after peeling back the surround I don't think I need to go that far. Perhaps just a cleaning and it'll be good. So that's where I am right now. I will update with more pics as I go along. I'm curious about one thing though. As you can see in my pics the spider landing is 1 step inside and using clamps when I glue the spiders in will be sort of hard. I'm thinking do 1 layer direct then set the spiders and add a layer on top and it'll be fine if I weight the sub down with something on top. Ok so since this is my first time I've decided to do the first one by itself. That and because I didn't have enough clamps to do them all at once. So as you can see I have stripped down the surround landing pretty well here. Here I took some card stock paper and made it to where I could test fit the recone to get it centered and check fitment. Ok, so when people says CA glue combined with activator dries fast they weren't lying. You better have your shit together once you spray on the activator cause once you set it it's there. No turning back now. So i decided to go with glue under and over the spider to ensure I got a good bond using activator both times. It wasn't the easiest squeezing my hand in to apply the top layer, but I'm thankful for having this type of basket to be able to do it with. And here's how it sets now after getting the surround landing glued down and the cap that sets on top of the coil. Last to do is the soldering tensil leads and gluing on the dust cap and then testing. If all goes well I will move on to the last 2.

I've always thought that going overboard was excessive in most cases when it comes to sub wiring. Huge wires , tiny tensil leads.

See I never knew this even exists until now. My way for sure took a lot of work. A little at a time is all I can do. At least this way it'll get done properly. Today I will most likely clean the surround landing and remove the old leads and prep those. You're always welcome to come over. I wasn't for sure if you've ever done or been around anyone attempting a recone.

Well, Like most any sub. They sound great in a well built enclosure and they handle a bit more power than rated. It's sort of like what a Sundown SA18 would be like if they made one. I actually picked up a 4th one to build back up. For a Chinese sub they are aight. I should add that I do believe that the Sundown SA series might just be a bit better too though.

I know right. Am I the only one sorta diggin the new Zv4's?

Senchez turning the gain down some? lol yah that'll happen. I'm curious to know if/how much it might change the peak sealed/door open/all doors open as well. I think this just might be a fun test. Dammit Lee.. why man.. why? haha I feel the test might be more appropriate for a slightly smaller enclosure. That box he has now is the size of a small car in dat der explorer.

This is exactly what I meant. And here I was going to use a computer case reference and thought "oh hell no, they'll probably think im friggin nuts".

He doesnt have to, a friend of his locally bought one of my old SP4 18's. He could do a direct swap if he wanted to for comparison sakes. Sounds like a good idea to me! Hey hey.. Don't be bringing me into this wait a second.. I haven't heard of any evil's tinsel leads glow red and burst in to flames. I believe i just solved the dilemma. Evil wins /endthread lmfao just kidding. I mean, if it's for testing purposes I might, but we'd also have to factor in the fact that Sencheezy has the d2 vs.. hell iunno if i even tested what impedance these were. What were they again Swift? Damn now that I think about it. I already have a meter as well. So that would actually make the test fairly umm "fair"?

Lol, I see what you did there. Now imma go watch Swifts dumpster trick haha

I've seen some configured where they share a common chamber and use a push pull style configuration. Most of the time these have been in sealed configurations and I've never been able to quite understand the concept completely. However, I have also seen same style configuration except the inversed subs are phased opposite in a ported enclosure. I always assumed mostly cosmetic myself as well.