nadcicle

Not quite, still held by Chris Hansford i believe. lol He had like a gazillion banks for his park and pound run. He strapped like 10 banks to each back seat plus what he already had in the back! I think ShiZZzon might have gotten a pic at world finals.

If you are implying that the leads are fraying because of the stress of over excursion I wouldn't say for sure, but Senchez and I tested to make sure the leads would be long enough. There was still plenty of the lead left after snipping the leads free closest to the coil point. I actually mentioned to Senchez when we installed the sub back in the box that I pretty much guarantee that there is no way it would let loose at the coil again since i pure silver instead of crappy lead solder. From what I can tell it looks like my solder held lol.

Just stopped by to say awesome, and of course tell you how much I hate you right now. Have a good day

This all makes me think of the post below where I asked about a few things and didn't hear an answer to any technical specs. I did eventually blow my Sp4 as well and got the same run around as all the previous users about having Korean made amplifiers. Someone basically stated that with Korean amps it doesn't matter and that it is simply a matter of time before you blow the leads if applying rated power to the subs. I've read all the posts on how subs are stupid any only do what you tell them which to some extent is true. However, what happened to the correct statement "It's only good as its weakest part" in this case? http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/58823-fi-sp4-on-fire-warranty/page-13 I've ran the same power on a prototype Obsidian 15" rated much lower with no issues whatsoever. Sure, the enclosure plays a big role in the overall "how stupid the sub is" theory, but according to previous statements of how crappy my amps are I should be making my DUAL leads glow and burst in to flames already so to hell with whatever I know about car audio. I shall just continue to install, blow, reinstall, in order to get louder and reach the goals I keep setting for myself. The best way to learn is by your own mistakes instead of the mistakes of others IMO.

According to Fi's theory of unfiltered korean amps, you are wrong 98Honda. I could post a video of ice glowing red because it explains it! lmfao PS - You are my new hero

adding the extra lead will do several things. 1. add about 3 grams to the moving mass of the driver. will shift parameters, almost unnoticeable on something this large even on Klippel. parameters shift anyway and are an average set over testing. 2.) could induce slap but HIGHLY unlikely to be audible. They are sewn pretty good. 3) could induce distortion by shifting spider parameters. But this is a non issue in the substage as suspension distortion is considered non audible. And one you get over 140 db you have to get into 40 and 50 percent over all distortion before it become audible. Off the top of my head that's all I can think of now. Awesome, Thank you very much!

Left looks like a black anodized coating, right looks like clipping on higher frequency.

If the coil still looks that good and the leads went i'd like to see how long it last with double leads before going slinky on us. Im curious Quentin, does doubling the leads have any negative impact on the overall of the sub?

Lebanon has yearly events that they already know they are going to be running every year. Some places do events on accordance to the event directors need for points. I have seen at a couple events on the east coast there is a certain director that doesn't even run his vehicles and waits to the last second to post any information for his events just to get enough points for finals. While it is a crappy way to gather points he can still hit his numbers when needed so it wouldn't matter anyways except the people in his area almost never find out until too late.

My guess is he was implying that it wasn't long before you reconed them. Reason for reconed wasn't something I read right off the bat.

Speak for yourself! I have a single 15" Obsidian "knockin" at like 145db at the head from a prefab son!

Obsidian audio subs are rated at and warranted for 600 rms. This coming from someone that has smoked 3 18's in a 35 second demo.

I just don't think there are enough tried and true 12" setups out there to really give you the definitive answer you are searching for. I've seen tons of these multiple speaker setups, but they don't achieve any kind of sound quality at all. I think it will come down to the one recommendation that we all dread hearing and that's to try something and test it. While we can all imagine what a 12 sounds like in a door only 1 can really say, and in the end it'll likely consist of how well the speaker is installed vs how well it looks on paper anyways. It doesn't hurt to buy 1 of each of your top 2 candidates and do a comparison test and either sell or return the one you think isn't up to par. I still think emphasizing your horns will play down to 600 will likely hurt you if you were to pick a mid bass that couldn't exceed at least to that 1k range or better which is why I'm glad you've decided to at least go that high. I'm more than happy to help out local with whatever your decision is. I'd personally go cheap and make sure I gave myself enough depth to swap later in case I liked it enough. That way if you're disappointed it won't be as big of a loss.

I knew it wouldn't last long lol. Looking forward to it brother. If you get froggy and decide to get horns again Eric Steven's sells them direct for 300 brand new in the box for his mini pro's which are extremely close to what you had.

Not my cup of tea as the long fuzziness looks sloppy to me. Of course there are a lot that do as it seems to be catching on.

With so much motor force and coil movement going on with only 500 watts that cooling is extra efficient and working overtime pumping air around everything. It can only get better with more power. I'm curious of the burp box for sure!

Yah, 4x would be too small for me too. I do like that style though i'll admit.

Lol, I just put 2 and 2 together and realize that I think you added me on Facebook recently Tenacious. Small world I guess.

Sort of looks like a weird team rf style with an extended pole peice type mouth thingy, or just a big giant thing a ma-moter! LMFAO

Looks like the ssd 18 to me

Only circumstance I'd recommend using one would be to gain match 2 non strap able amps on a single sub. I'd like to see someone set the gain "by ear" with this setup type lol. Then again you still wouldn't need an O-scope for that.

I agree with m5 on listening how low you can currently go. My use full bodied start farting right at 800 at too high of volume. For our type of listening I chose to cross higher at 1k so I could feed them more power without the fear of replacing diaphragms. I will say they blended a lot better at low volume though. It's just that we are determined to keep up with a loud substage and most of these Sq guys don't have that issue. For all intents and purposes they build the exact opposite the way we do by sounding good then blending in. We try and get loud then sound good is becoming our ladder.

Not trying to throw too big of a wrench in things, but I want to reiterate what I was saying to you before about the size of your horns effecting how low you can tune those drivers to safely. I wouldn't bank on being able to cross them all the way down to 600 unless they were full size. I was asking Eric about it directly and he said the same to me and said that the biggest issue with finding a matching mid is making the decision on the size of driver vs how loud you want it to be overall. In almost any circumstance you will almost always be turning your horns down to mix with your mids as they will almost always be overpowering them with anything smaller than an 8" driver. That isn't to say the least that you then have an issue with finding something that will play low enough and high enough to make the blend that much more appealing. I'm still personally set on trying out that cheap driver i mentioned to you before just to see how high it will get without breaking up. Sure it doesn't get as low as some would like, but subs might be able to get at least up to their cutoff point without being too horrible. I am willing to test myself of course as I plan on doing 10's in both vehicles if they'll sound good enough to make them worth while. They're not gonna be taking 500 rms though and I highly doubt some of their specs. http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pbw10s-10-midbass--292-2528

Oh hi... More came today. *sigh* I guess I haven't been looking hard enough. I remember buying 1 of these years ago for about 6 bucks for a single cap and wasn't big in to SPL then as I had dropped out for a while. Well, I can almost guarantee that you have my interest lol

damn you!, if you decide you don't need all those caps let me know if you'd like to get rid of a bank or so. I don't see any issues playing 30 second runs with that amount.