AXEHAMMER

can anyone recommend a brand so I don't buy the wrong stuff??

also, I have another competition on the 13th. could I get by with glueing those tears up and running it? if it has to be reconed anyway I don't know why not...

The box is going to have roughly a 4th order roll off as well. It takes a lot to damage a high damped driver below tuning. There are plenty of subs out there that take 1,500-3,000 watts to hit xmech free air on a Klippel and show no signs of damage. Can you explain this Quentin? I don't understand the 4th roll off stuff. Are you saying its surprising the sub is hurt in this way with my ssf and roll off?

Its just in places as in the pics, but I noticed bulging also where its not tore. I couldn't hear ANY abnormal noise on the bad sub when playing it in box. ill check it free air, but im 99 percent positive its fucked

so...the tears im seeing ARE the problem correct? would that lead to that sub moving considerably more at low power?

The rated power is thermal not mechanical. Excellent point Quentin, had not thought of that in my pity/pissed state. Thanks.

I have no choice. RF t1500bdcp has an on/off switch for 28hz ssf.

the thing I don't understand is with my ssf ON and set at 28hz, how the fuck did the subs get so much power they bottomed??

32hz

Never focking mind. Found the problem. Guess I need a recone huh? have to look close but there are tears in the grey stuff near the spider. you were correct jon, it was the one that was moving a lot compared to the other. What are the chances the other one will let go since they both were unloaded equally hard?

Thanks for the quick response, Alton. Just submitted my order for the GCON... and the wait begins! Really excited to see what this sub can do. Had my heart set on a JL 12w6v2 & matching amp for months... but when it came time to buy, I simply couldnt justify spending that much for a single sub setup. Really glad I found SSA, looks like they put out some high quality products. Also thanks for posting those box spec's... I had been looking at THIS page, which doesnt show the enclosure dimensions. I'll be sure to post my trunk measurements tonight. Since the recommended size is 2.5 - 3.0 cubes, are there any significant advantages of using a larger box (3.0) over a smaller (2.5)? Take it with a grain of salt gator, but from what I understand the bigger box would be a little louder AT tuning than the smaller one. Another reason I chose a larger enclosure is the fact that I am underpowering my xcons by a few hundred watts, so with a bigger box it was easier to reach their full potential. ie reach full excursion on lower power.

OK guys. All FOUR coils read 0.8ohms with the meter I went and bought (50 bucks) All FOUR coils pass the 9v battery test. I see NO problems visually with either sub. Could this be a box issue? The only thing not completely sealed is where my wires go into side of box to hook to sub. Could it be an rca cable issue? I have one set for subs and use the pass through on one of them to get rca to other amp. Only other thing I have noticed with my system is 3 times now my HIGHS have cut out at full tilt. That being said my box was basically against my highs amp when this occurred. Would a free air test of the subs be advised/beneficial for anything?

I may have misread that Jon but the coils on one sub are 1.0 and 1.2 I am going now to get a good dmm to check the other sub, I only had the one out when the guy stopped by to let me use his fluke meter You may be right, it may be the sub that "acts normal" that is my prob, I will have it out and checked within the hour.

9v battery test is good, the speaker comes out just a fraction when I touch the battery to it Also, visually I do not see any problems with this sub everything that I know to check looks good. keep in mind this is only one of the woofers and is the one I thought was making noise and also the one that was not moving very much.

is impedance what I just checked?

nm, got to borrow a real dmm by fluke, one coil is 1.2 and the other is 1.0

Both coils showing 2.3 but I say again this dmm is shit

I assume I use the ohm setting on the dmm? the lowest it goes to is 200 so set it to that then touch the leads together to see their resistance?

im gonna invest in a decent one soon. so a 9 volt battery to one side of sub at a time will tell me something? does it sound like one coil is bad by the way its acting?

Yes is sounded TERRIBLE. sounds awful but I literally about cried hearing it after dropping the cash I did for them lol ssf is set at 28hz, im sure there was some clipping to be honest with you. The only dmm I have is the 5 dollar job from harbor freight, I don't trust it for anything. Should I borrow a better dmm for accurate results? I cant even trust this dmm for alt output, its all over the place

any wires specifically? meter the coils, not the amp output correct? pop test? sorry guys, this is new to me, the subs ive had before were literally throw away when they f'ed up.

Also it should have stamps on both ends and on the small finger of the lobster claw. a counterfeit would have only one stamp on one end of the necklace

My offer would be 1100 if you brought it to me. I run a gold buying store. best in area for 15 years now