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well first thing i'd look at after knowing its sealed is the box.. go ported! lol unless your really trying to retain all SQ possible but thats not what it sounds like to me? my guess is your buddies w7 is ported? \

badass truck for sure.. thats the s10 blazer right?

you should be able to get over 145db legal with a single 18" BTL in a blazer no problem... my first time ever on a meter i did a 147db DB Drag and that was at 39-40hz in my blazer how big is your box? and tuning/port area ? how much power to it?

used to be 3100rms at 2 ohms on a single 18.. soon will be 2 sundown 1500s strapped at 2ohms for about 3400+ daily driven

i do like those type of cones/dustcaps.. but an spl sub wouldnt be right with out the boob cap, but it would be nice on the Q

siiiiiick build i cant wait to get another 18" BTL.. i really want to try a removeable port like that, when its all done i'd like some input on how it worked out and how it was made if possible

wow, thats probably the main reason i never come around here, i hate clicking on each linked post.. i was just about to make my own topic...lol thanks

i may be biased as well owning an 18" BTL.. but i have only heard the DD, and it was loud, sounded OK, i would say my BTL sounded better.. then you get to the PRICES you cant beat a BTL for 409$ just unreal compared to the other two price tags.. but then again the TC woofer is suppoesed to get just as loud and sound better but i guess thats all personal preference i would have to hear one for my self

might as well get BTLs on that power.. and should be an EASY high 140s low 150s car with a wall built correctly for 2 18" BTLs..

RE RE Comps.. i would say best for the money...i run 2 sets on my 100.4

for every 1 positive run, you should have 1 negative run

thats about maximum port area for a 5.3 cube box, 16sq inches per cubic foot.. going by the thread above it says 3-5cubes for a 15 not sure how all the extra space and port area will do probably drop your power handling, anddd your output, not to mention SQ if you wanted any

car: 1997 Olds Bravada (4door blazer) Electrical: Stock alt, yellow top under the hood Amps: Hifonics XX-Cyclops Subs: (1) Fi BTL 18 Dual 1 Box: self made - 6.7 cubes @ 31hz Mic: New TL Tone: 40hz Score: (legal or outlaw) 146.8 Legal

i read wrong.. thought you said you would be giving a 15" BL 4-4500 watts daily..

edit** read wrong oopssssss

my sundown sax100.4 is a refurb.. works great

my bad ... Soundstream XXX-6500D Output Power at 1% THD+N: 1 x 1697W @ 4 ohm (13.5V) 1 x 1750W @ 4 ohm (14.4V) 1 x 2905W @ 2 ohm (13.5V) 1 x 3290W @ 2 ohm (14.4V) 1 x 4082W @ 1 ohm (13.5V) 1 x 4490W @ 1 ohm (14.4V) The page lists (RMS, unknown voltage and THD): 3400W @ 4 ohm, 4800W @ 2 ohm, 6500W @ 1 ohm S/N Ratio: >80 dB Damping Factor: >350 @ 80Hz (+/-5Hz) Operating Freq. (band-width): 15Hz ~ 150Hz Dimensions: 24.53" x 11.42" x 2.56" (62.3cm x 29cm x 6.5cm) Max. DC current: 465A DC (1 ohm, 1% THD+N) Same board as: . Audiobahn A4KDN . Ground Zero GZPA 1.6000D . Lanzar OPTI 4000D thats from amp guts.. personally i think the amp is a waste of money and current unless you have 16v electrical.. i would look into something different

from what i hear those are ratings are at 16volts..... its more like 4000@1ohm and 28-2900@2ohms i've been hearing so i think the BLs can handle that for sure

i think i heard that it was ok, i know my 18 with everything but cooling gets pretty warm.. some one said it was because of the hixmax coil & 3rd slug.. i have mine running at about 3000 watts rms @ 2ohms on an XX-cyclops so its pretty clean power.. one of my friends has 2 15's with no options on 2k rms each and tthey dont even get warm so that makes a little sense when they say it is from the options you have, some one else with more knowledge needs to reply to this though..

i have an osciliscope that my dad is letting me use, i want to see my wave forms to make sure i am not getting any square waves to make sure i am not clipping.. everytime i set it up once i turn the volume up its makes a pop noise from the speakers and doesnt read nothing.. how i hooked it up: sub was hooked up on all the tries 1st hooked up to pos(+) and neg(-) on the amp sub out 2nd try hooked up just the pos(+) on the amp sub out 3rd try hooked up pos to the pos(+) on the amp, and neg (-) to chassis ground all got the same result only showed a wave form at low volume in voltage mode cant find out how to get to hz screen shows +14v to -14v my guess was that the output voltage of the amp is much higher (according to the gain setting calc we have here) so this oscope may not work with this much power? do i need to set up to read volts or hz? and also do i need to have the sub disconnected from the amp while doing this? pleaseeeeee help me i really wanna get this going

no, the tens do not play music well at all, the 10's and only the 10's all others do fine i would suppose but i have only heard 15"s and 18"s so i dont know about the 12"

flex vid excursion vid subs barely moving.. only got my gain at about 1/4 on an XX-Cyclops @ 2ohms vol on head unit is at 22/40 6.7 Cubes @ 31hz 101sq in of port dual 1 wired in series

looks sick.. i see your in illinois.. wheres the comp at ? i just put my 18" BTL in i really wanna see what it can doo

def louder than the mtx's by a lot lol really want to find a place to get metered, and find a way to keep my back seats and get another lovin my BTL

sounds like your right with in the specs of 12-16sq inches per cube so you should be good on port area same with box size, looks alright to me