Duke

3600w x1 @ 1ohm which is soooo underrated. It also was made to run on 18v right out of the box. Not sure how accurate these are, but it came from a reliable source. Draw

its great down low. I still dont think anybody has bought a pair except me. i compare them to the FI SSD I like the cones.

Dual 2.

Got my new pair of Havocs in Monday. (thanks Scott) They won't be hooked up for a while as I'm waiting on a new amp replacing my HK4000, and a new box is in the works also. Old (left) vs New (right). The old proto Havoc will be going for sale soon, so keep your eyes out for that or PM me if you might be interested and I'll let you know when I plan on putting it up.

Well, on the old pair of Havocs, I had an HK4000... I'm switching to something more powerful and more reliable.

Very nice "drools", those subs look massive lol. And your avatar is killing me lmao! Hehe, badger FTW. I'll have some excursion videos up once I have my new amp here and installed, so keep your eye out.

Ha!

I don't think this could be properly modeled as a ported box. Looks like it may take horn properties as well as bandpass properties. That port opening really looks like it isn't increased to total the width of both ports. Looks like an interesting design though.

The port opening right before the speakers looks like it is half the size it should be. Is that designed as a choke point?

You'll need to contact Fi about reconing it.

This is what I was getting at from the beginning, I understand the dangers of clipping but on such a low wattage it doesn't make sense. There shouldn't be enough power to make the gague of the wire on the coil become warm. Thats how you blow/damage a speaker with low wattage... clip the signal. It CAN and quite possibly will cause that type of damage.

Set the gains to how much the amp can cleanly produce. huh? Amplifiers will start to produce a clipped/unclean signal at a certain volume/gain setting where there components can no longer cleanly increase the power. Find out where that will happen on your amp and set it slightly below that point. Clipping really likes to happen when you try and feed more power to say, a 1000 watt sub... but your amp only produces 70 watts. That heats up the coils quickly. Underpowering a sub isn't bad, UNLESS the signal is clipped/distorted/unclean. I'm not the best at explaining it, especially when my sleeping pills are kicking in.

Set the gains to how much the amp can cleanly produce.

How long is SEMA going on?

If you want to increase your post count, try making useful posts instead of just copying and pasting like this and the others Its really a gamble with anything being shipped through any company. This problem isn't just FedEx. Its all shipping companies. There are so many ways that could have happened at a facility. Some of the chutes are a little steep and get alot of velocity going. You get one pissed off package handler and thats the end of your package. Good luck with the insurance.

] Thank you Scott, much appreciated.

Well, I feel like a moron. I was messing around today, doing nothing extremely stupid, and turned a 30 hz sine wave up a bit and the bass stopped. These are the Havoc 18 pre production subs. Only one is pwned. Both coils are gone, and there seems to have been a joint failure at the spider/coil/cone connection. Needless to say, my heart was broken when this happened because I love these subs so much. How much am I looking at for a recone? Certain people's inboxes were full when I tried to send this via pm.

Do do dooooo bumpppp. Help? PM boxes full?

You afraid of overpowering them? Just keep the signal clean and you should be fine.

Those carbon fiber ones sound pretty good. I'm going to run them for "rear" fill. I say "rear" because their location in the back doors is pretty close to being considered front fill... they will be straight down from my head and just a few inches above floor height. I have polys in the front doors.

Well, I don't really know anything other than my Havoc 18s are rated at 1500 rms, have 25 xmax, and a double stacked magnet. The new ones have lower rms, higher exmax, and a triple magnet.

Trust me guys, if the new Havocs are better than, or anything like the "prototypes" 18s I have, then it will be WELL WORTH the wait. B)

Hey Scott, I was wondering, could you give me an idea of the differences in the new production run of Havoc 18s compared to the two Havoc 18s I bought directly from AA a few months ago? Besides cosmetics obviously.

You guys need to relax. AA rules.

I was hoping on using box requirements for each application to help me decide on which direction to go with these subs. Thanks. Well, for your car, I'd go as big as you can go with at least 1/3 SD for port area, tuning it to about 30. Even tuning higher up if you can't fit a very long port isn't going to be that bad as the Avalanches have a naturally heavy low end, and the high end is weaker. Might even it out a bit.