Austin863

hahaha i am looking at a 4 runner. thats what im 95% sure that i am getting if not that a subaru forester. or wagon of some sort. really shooting towards a 4 runner tho. will have tint rims tires and be very well taken care of. deadening and all of the sorts

Nnnnnnnooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!

Well as this van is just becoming more of a hassel to get to pass inspection. its time to junk the baby. X-Wagon is no more. now im heading towards an suv/sedan. gonna squeez the X-cons in there in a ported enclosure right in the back seat. i will be starting the next build log whenever that car comes about and the box building has begun. cant wait to see how nasty these xcons can get!

this may be true although I have had no issues with it. It is ran right beside my motor and has never melted or caused me any issues other than being a pain to get into a fuse holder haha

personally i dont like aluminum wire. as you said it gets very hot and potentially melts the jacket. i switched from cca to full spec. and it still got really really hot. then i went to welding cable and there was no problems. not only did it not get hot. it was able to deliver more ground from the chasis to my amplifier and keep it running. The amp i had was an audiopipe 3000.1d. They are voltage hogs. so the cable had to be a better grade and welding cable seemed to work best for me. all in all its in your preference. i have 2g welding cable on my ground as apposed to CCA or Full spec. It doesn't even get hot and keeps my amp running. But whatever your poison. Make sure its not gonna cost you money in the end. Id rather spend a lot of money once than a lot of money multiple times.

Does anyone know of where i could send my amp to get fixed and or beefed up a little bit? just curious. i burn a cap in my 3k and i was looking to maybe send it out and get that fixed but also beef it up and have them make it one Ohm stable. Its an Audiopipe Ap 3000.1d.

the cap in the amplifier is 1800 uF 100v VENT -40 + 105 degrees C

http://www.newark.com/multicomp/mchpr100v188m25x41/capacitor-1800uf-100v/dp/55T0395#accessories

Germans have good engineering it wouldnt surprise me if they have some good high end stuff. Let us know check stuff out ask for the highest end stuff and then compare prices quality rating and whatnot.

if its just a snap in capacitor that is blown. I can just pop that out and put in a new one. Correct? thats all i can see that is messed up i mean i could take it and have it check but if its just the cap ill buy the same one and just pop that one out and put a new one in. another question what kind of glue do they use?

Well the amp is 2 ap1500.1d's straped in one casing. but i burnt a cap so i was wondering if anyone knew where i could send that to get it fixed?

It will save you the trouble of the math if you just go buy another battery. I understand you may have heard a stock bat and alt can power 2 12's but. that also depends on the amp size not the size of the driver. yes a good ground can help but it wont do much. if you were to get another battery and run +/+ and Ground to ground youd be in parallel. making it still a 12v system but maybe uping your voltage rating to like 13.2 or so. depending on the amperage of the front battery aswell. basically what we all are trying to tell you is it is going to be a lot less hassle to just get another battery or alternator. whichever your poison. batteries are gonna be cheeper though. most of the time a car is either gonna need 1 upgraded battery up front and no extras or 2 batteries with a stock alternator. i ran 1000w on 1 55ah battery and stock 130a alternator. what a lot of people cant grasp is that your battery is just a reserve that lets your car be able to start and also work without running. like a normal battery. Your alternator is what runs EVERYTHING. having 2 batteries would be like having 1 big reserve yes it will help with the dimming effect but your alt is still gonna run everything your car doesn't just run off the battery(s) that are in it.

Hey chop i need a couple .jpg image files of IAK and Team IAK audio for that plaque i wanna make!

whatever your poison make sure you give your Q lots of port if your going for SQ. it will get nasty. basically if you can just make its base very large and the sides up high enough to fit into the trunk. i mean if you cant fit it in maybe go sealed. you could probably easily get a 7cu box in that box.

I'll always be cummin' wouldn't have it any other way. the ol' 12 valves are the way to go!

If you want to reduce light dimming get another car battery remember the more amp hours the more reserve of the battery. for instance i have 2 batteries 55 ah a peice. they ran my GCONs @1ohm on 1500w and my lights didnt dim at all and i have a 130 amp alternator. also powering a 400.4 for my mids and highs. Sooo the solution to your problem could happen to be another battery.

There is a BL motor and BTL motor. The BTL is a Neo Magnet motor. The BL is less power handleing but a standard driver motor. The SP4 i have heard great things about them. They are very loud sub. If you check out swift's build log. he has 3 SP4's ported in his F350. Now the BL is a fantastic sub that can get extremely low if you put it in the right enclosure. it may not have a lot of XMAX but it is a freakin monster. My friend has 1 and i have heard it for myself he has 1 18. and that thing slams and makes his roof and braces slap... but either way each of these subs you have suggested will get fairly loud for a daily driver.

I'm very glad you got things figured out i have great experience with FI. They are amazing motors i understand the frustration and wanting to say they are junk but truthfully they are not. Hand built quality is hard to come by. As MTX and SSL are both mass manufactured. My Uncle (NEM) has steered me in the Made in the USA direction and to not go with much things made overseas. But i without a doubt knew that the FI drivers would satisfy you. Probably much more than you had expected. I've only been doing this for a year. and i know a load of info. and am still learning. not trying to make myself sound like a audio god or anything. but i certainly know my stuff. but i was confused at first because if you wired them in a series and then hooked them both up to the amp. what is the Ohm load of the woofer. if you wire a d1 to a series it would become a 2 and so would the other one but would wiring them in parallel both together would that make it back to 1 ohm.?

Did somebody say Zombie?!?! there's evil afoot....

Low tuned boxes are my favs Im porting my XCONs to 31-32 hz they play low in a sealed box. wait till. i get them ported and tuned low. they will really play the lows. im pumped.

How much was your alternator?

1. Clean it up haha. 2. Check all the grounds and powers make sure nothing is touching the RCA cables and make sure everything is secured down tight. 3. Check RCA's make sure they are not touching any other wires, and make sure they are not cut or showing bare wire anywhere. if that doesnt help if you are playing with your phone through a AUX jack and it is charging that will give the same static effect/motor noise. if all else fails try a new pair of RCA jacks.

17's close enought. Nem!!

i hate winter lol. Sleding is probably the best part when there isnt a 1/2" of ice on top then its just not a good time! hahah

Maybe Go a little bit bigger on the port area. get them about 280^2 in of port total. thats why my XCONS are gettin in their ported box 2 18" xcons.