putergod

No speaker can play 5Hz audibly... 5Hz isn't audible! However, I'm mixed in this discussion. I am leaning more towards the "if you have to compare, you don't want the BL" side, but still fairly close to the middle. I bought Q's. I have two Q12s in the GTO and one Q10 in the Audi. I wanted SQ, and didn't spend much time looking at the others. I was a little curious about them though. That little 10 delivers an enormouse amount of SPL at very low frequency for a 10 in a sealed enclosure. And it sounds soooooo dang good doing it! Smoothest, cleanest sounding sub I've heard.

Not comlaining, just happy! too bad it has to be a holiday weekend though. gotta wait till tuesday,

Mine are now, finally, on the way! Yipee!!

I can't find anyone that makes one! I'm hoping for at least 200+ amps. 250 or so would be superb!

Just like Current*Voltage=power, Voltage^2 = power. Ohm's law is very slippery. I=V/R I=80/1 I=80 P=I*R P=80*80 P=1600 And the "ear dyno": Previous amp: USA 1000x @ 2 Ohm stereo = metered at 1300 WRMS Current amp: Mmats 3000.1 @ 4 Ohms = "rated" at 3000 WRMS @ 1 Ohm Current setup, at rated power, should not be exceeding 750 WRMS. However, it is MUCH louder than the 1000+ WRMS it had before. Current amp measured at ~81-82v at MINIMUM gain (on a HU that only puts out about 2v, and is far from "linear" at that, set to "28" - approx 3/4-4/5 max vol) Coincidence or severely underrated? I'm thinking the latter.

Dude's rocking Funky Pups! Hell yeas!

im on the same boat man... ordered 25 days ago too... waiting for my 12"fi q. itd be cool if they had a build progress tracking code btw couldnt help but notice u got a ranger glad to see more ranger owners going to Fi Oh noes... that means I still have at least another week! My order was only 19 days ago. Oh well. I know they're working on them, as I'm pretty sure they aren't just sitting around smoking a bong staring at bar stock, lol. I guess I check UPS again in about a week. In all honesty though, I'd rather have to wait a month then have them ship production overseas (and get crap) or have to hire more help, and in turn possibly have to raise prices. Waiting just sucks.

That's freaking halarious!! I get all kinds of idiots that see my Q calling it F I... it makes me want to slap them! Apparently they never heard of HiFi.

Bought a Fi but wanting to cheap out on the amp? My opinion: save a little more and up the amp budget and look at Mmats. Put a high quality (like the sub) Made in the USA (also like the sub) amp on that thing! Mmats makes ALL of their amps in FL, USA. Plus, they are very underrated. My 3000.1D put out over 80 volts at minimum gain... that's well over TWICE it's rated power!

I can vouch for this. Nick has been quick at responding to my emails. I, too, am waiting. I did finally get the UPS notification this weekend, which (IIRC) means that mine are getting built now! Yippee! They are a little slow, but worth it. You can't rush perfection! I would rather wait a few weeks and know that they take their time and the quality of product I am getting is top notch than have them rush and mass produce like other companies (like that "end all - be all of subs: Jay-Ell).

If it were me, I'd go with two Mmats M3000's. I know they are only rated at 3000wrms each, but they are historically underrated, not to mention very efficient and put out even more power with more voltage. Plus they are built right here in the grand ole US of A! They are pricey though.

As far as I am concerned, until it's in your hands, the seller is responsible. I.e. if it never shows up, they need to take it as a loss and send another. No reputable company would leave you out in the cold because of a screw up before it ever hit your possession. And I'm pretty sure no judge would side with them if they did.

Thanks for all the replies. I went ahead and bought a slightly used AX-5600 for under $300. I have a lot of faith in US Amps given my experience with them, and if it doesn't perform up to my liking, I can resell it and be out next to nothing. Now I'm concentrating on a sub. Thinking about a Fi Q 10 with High Qts, Spider, and Ring options. Opinions?

I need a 5/6 channel amp for one of my cars. I need about 75-150 or so watts per channel on channels 1-4, and a 5th (or 5th and 6th bridged) channel to run a sub with 500-1000 watts. I was looking at the following: US Amps AX-5600 US Amps USA-5600x (getting hard to find) Hifonics Zeus ZXi60.4 + 1k Memphis Belle 16-MCH1300 The only problem with the latter two is that they are most likely made in China... which is a huge turn off for me given my recent experience with chinese made amps. Anyone have any other suggestions? Sub is unimportant at the moment, as it will be picked after the amp is. I'm trying to stay under $500, if possible, but that is not a hard cap. I alos want to run just a single amp in this vehicle, if possible. Thanks!

Just curious what reviews you were looking at. Got any links? This thread got me a little worried... it appears Steve "fixed" the real problem, but there are other little things that just shouldn't be with a new amp (referring to the board being longer than the chassis, etc) Zed Audio "Leviathan" my take on it.... - DIYMA.com This is the review where it exceed rating at 4ohm stereo, but fell a little short on the others: audio gear reviews - Amplifier Review - ZED Audio Leviathan The 4ohm stereo power is more than enough, but the bridged and/or 2 ohm power, isn't that great, considering it's not even making it. I was also looking at a couple mmats amps. Really wanted to go with one, but for not "too" much more than the leviathan I could have a SQ4100 and M1400. That would give me slightly less power on the four channels, but a lot more on the sub. And they make all their amps in the grand ole US of A!

I've read some not so flattering things about those this evening. Also, they don't seem to do rated power at 2 Ohm or bridged. Of course that was only one review I saw where it's power was tested, so only one example.

Looks like it's down again.

I've had MANY speakers replaced/reconed over the years due to burnt coils, bottoming out, etc. It will be warrantied. They have NO way of knowing how much power you put through them. Could have been a defect in the coating for all they know. I've even had Cerwin Vega recone a pair of XL15-D's a full YEAR beyond the end of the warranty, after clipping the hell out of the amp and frying the coils; and yes... they did it for free. I sent them a letter explaining my problem, and how I felt about the problem, and they called me and told me to send them in, and they will take care of it.

?

I'm toying with a few change ides for my system. My sig is what I am running currently. My two 12's are in ~1cu ft boxes, sealed. Due to space constraints, I cannot go much above that, ported or sealed. I've always been a fan of sealed enclosures for their sound quality and ability to get low. However, I am also a spl (""SQL"" really) junkie, and need more volume. I'm looking at the RL-p 12, ICON 12, and Fi Q12. Goals: fit may car, sound great, get low, and get loud. Power will be through, either, my 1000x (which meters at ~600 rms/ch @2ohms with a 50Hz sine wave), or an equivilent US Amps (depending on another issue I am having). Givin this info, and the info in my sig, I need some experienced suggestions on: Box size Box type Subs to use To meet the goals of a true ""SQL"" system that will compliment the rest of my system. Thanks! Oh, and I am on a budget. I'm hoping to get both for no more than what I paid for the SW8120's ($225 each at HiFi Buys)

Let me ask this then... Which would be louder in the 20-40Hz region while maintaining good SQ: 1. Two 12's in ~1-1.25 cu ft sealed boxes (ea) with 1kw shared 2. One 12 in ~1.5-2 cu ft sealed box with 1kw 3. One 12 in ~2 cu ft box ported @ ~28Hz with 1kw 4. Two 10's in 1-1.25 cu ft boxes (ea) sealed or ported @ ~28Hz with 1kw shared The amp will be the same amp, regardless of setup (1000x in sig) Goal: as locse to 130db as I can get while maintaining good SQ. I really would like it to extend down to at least 25Hz with not more than 3db loss.

10's wont cut it. I had them, ditched them for 12's about 4 or 5 years ago. I used to run 15's exclusively, so it's already a tough sell with measly 12's, lol I can add a LITTLE more air space... but not much. If you've ever seen the trunk of a GTO, you'll understand. Why didn't your 10's work? What were they? What was their enclosure? What was the amp? Same model as my current 12's, in boxes about the same size, and the amp was my 10.0 They just didn't hit as low or loud as I wanted. That's because your using new Eclipse stuff, Fi is a whole other league. The motor and coil are EXACTLY the same on sizes 10"-18", the only thing that changes is the cone and suspension. Larger subs getting "lower" is a misconception, it really depends on the enclosure. 8's play the same notes as 18's, the only difference is volume. The Eclipse's are the same way. The tens and twelves have the same motor, coil, and power ratings. And, yea, I'm aware that they can, technically, play the same notes, but in reality, not really. The only way you are going to hear a 20Hz signal (and not just the distortion of the speaker trying to play it) on a typical 8 is to have your ear almost on the speaker. That is not feasable. Plus, the industry standard for frequency response is +/- 3db Maybe... but... my 12's still get louder and lower than the 10's. All I want is a noticable increase in volume. If I have to redisign the boxes to achieve it, so be it, but the fact there are some space constraints have to be included.

Thanks for the reply! That's how I had the o-scope hooked up, and the power output was identical as if it was hooked up "unbridged". The amp also heated up very quickly (with just a scope, no speakers, on it). All my other amps work like expected when scoping them. It should also be important to note that this amp is BNIB, never hooked up to anything until the other night.

Currently I am using a USA-4300x and a USA-1000x. In my bedroom sits a new, never used, AX-4360TU I have a local with a AX-1000 he's wanting to part with My question - which setup would be better? In both sound quality and volume - current or the two AX series?