aBrokeNinja91

heys guys, so i just finished installing 36 sq feet of deadner in my car and it helped out tremendously. the anoying rattles i heard before are gone and even the ones on the outside for the most part. after installing it though it seems my subs do not hit as hard as they had before and i was wondering if anyone has had the same results as i did. i have a 2003 celica and i installed the deadner on the inside and outer door skins and did this all the way back into the trunk

lol thanks fellaz i finally finished wiring it and tested it. this build is for my cousin who just graduated high school so im hookin up a system in his car (: 2 type r 12s with my AQ1200 amp and clarion flip out. but the stock wire from his bat to alt has some unit in the middle of it, looks like the starter or some shii' so i didnt even wanna mess with it. hopefully i have this finished by the time he goes to graduation!! ill def take pics as i already have and post them for you guys when its finished

could i go wire straight from the alternator to the battery in the rear? the alt would also still be wired to the front battery as well. the car im installing is an 2000 honda accord. would i need to fuse after the alternator and before the batery in the rear? in my head this would work but ive never done it this way before...

stock alt 1/0 wire to the rear 4 gauge on front battery grounds maybe 4 gauge from alt to front battery pos

i installed a cde-121 in my buddies accord and had to turn the sub level up on it to get the subs moving. i also read somewhere else that some alpine headunits need the sub level turned up.

"Chris The Man"... we have the same interests sucka!!

You could try to double up on the plexi... ive never tried it but its worth a shot!! but the plexi/plastic and led idea will go a long way

i plan on upgrading the battery under the hood with an agm but am worried about the arizona heat "killing" it. does anyone live in hot weather that has an agm bat in their car, and if it lasts as long as people say?

omg that shit is insane!!! but i like it

a fifteen will make it sound like he spent twice what he did on it my vote: Dcon

all in the cabin gain baby

i have everything in the title

yeah your right, all ninjness aside it is right up against the back wall. lol it looked great on paper... thx. im always trying to out-do my last build so i figured id give kerfing a shot. the port is def too close to the wall because i get port noise, but it was a lesson well learned... as for the sq prob i think it may have to do with the actual driver not liking the specs of the box.

so i finally got the kicker sold and am now saving up for new subs. but in the mean time i figured i would redo the setup with my old (and first sub) pioneer pro 10". the old box was built to factory specs, but unfortunately later on i found out it was tuned to 60hz or something crazy like that. i used to have the ssf set at 35 from what people would say and i always got stinky coils. so i cut the top off the box, knocked the ghetto fab round port i made of mdf off, and slid a few pieces of walls in to make a port. lol but this baby has still held up strong since october last year and is now even better!! the box now is about 1.6 cu.ft. tuned to around 34-35hz with kerfed ports, the sub kinda gets muddy on the real low notes but its because this box was designed around a 10" fi bl, ssa icon, and the AQ hdc3. i have still yet to decide on which sub to get but am most likely just gonna scrap all of this and go with a pair of subs, 10's, 12's or even 15's. but thats later down the road with better electrical. ive always read that enclosures play a big part in your system, but now its like WTF!! enjoy the whip: Celica GT auto, i luvs this picture the old setup, it was so neat looking with the 1 cu.ft. box with the pioneer... The design The cuts Assembly Capped off monday is school, no carpet or amp rack till next weekend wires yeeaaahh... amp rack... double yeeee!!! and leds ftw

looking good, looks like a fun build whats that mlv and ccf stuff? see ive got sound dampener installed like yours but none of that stuff that is covering the whole door, whats it for? i think i saw it on jon's thread too.

lol welcomez the same thing happened to me bro

flush-izzle

i'd like to see military patrolling streets instead of cops, it might stop ppl from texting and driving... maybe...

sweeet... new box for new subs yo !!!! lol i nearly ended up with the same sub stage as you with the icons.

could you elaborate on the pressure conflicting with bends?

there could be

thanks fellas. i just looked at the snowy picture of my car and realized i need the rear end a little lower. im thinking 2 12's or a monster 15 will do the trick

hey i used the 12volt calculator for all my builds so far and what you should do is: 1. input the length/width/height that youre willing to use, and get the gross volume (without port, sub, and brace displacement) 2. calculate port length with desired port area, when you do this input the desired net volume (air space) 3. figure out how much volume the port, sub, bracing takes up and subtract it from step #1 4. this number will be off from your desired net volume, so youre gonna adjust port area in small incriments while repeating steps 2 and 3. usually my ports take up anywhere from 1/4 to 1/3 of my gross volume. so with your 4.25 cu.ft. gross volume (your inside dimensions 15.5x39.5x12) you should be able to get within the recommendations for the sub. my first box took awhile to plan so just take your time man. if you do decide to make the box bigger, increasing the shortest lengths will yeild the most gain in volume.