SS Teacher

It's in general, not classified. We love you pmureika, did you forget to take your pills this morning?

My first purchase from any forum, it went way smoother than I could have imagined.

It would do that much if struck by lightning. The new RE isn't anywhere near the old RE. I would honestly look for a different amp. If you're cruising Sonic Electronix check to see if the amp is CEA 2006 compliant, if it isn't, keep looking.

Would it be too much of a blanket statement to say "If you're using a capacitor, you shouldn't strap your amps"?

Welcome to the forum, like Alton said the SSA store has a lot of great stuff at good prices. The first JL sub you can buy that is made in the US is the W3 and they're in the high $200's, SSA's lowest priced sub is half that and will (in the proper enclosure) sound every bit as good or better.

Nope. We are forced to have very good backs and receivers and a QB that plays like he is in grade school. He was 3rd string for the Bengals for fuck's sake. At least you guys consistently suck, WTF happened to my Giants? This crap of beating the best team in the league on the road to loosing at home to a crap team or squeaking it out in the 4th is driving my CRAZY! Is Eli great or crap...roll the dice, you never know. I'm getting to old for this garbage, be good consistently or suck consistently.

I don't know if I've ever seen any of your posts, but you started the IHOP, that's worth a Happy Birthday!

Ever since Columbine we've been doing "lock down" or "code red" drills in case anything similar happens at my high school. The procedures are designed to minimize casualties, there isn't any real way to stop deranged psychos from entering a campus and shooting.

It is painted, lol Patina Blue painted to look old. Its a clean truck. Full redone vintage a/c in it that will run you out of it. Not sure what the stock alt does, but the new battery should be fine. Remember, he just wants good sounds, He wont be "bangin" lol. I think the JL C5's would sound alot better than the Alpines but may not be noticeable. I knew better than to try and post sarcasm, I was hoping the wink emoticon would indicate that. Yea, I knew what "rat rods" where and love that style, it makes me appreciate it even more because it doesn't have flames, spinning chrome wheels, etc., etc. Also a fan of those old "sleeper" muscle cars.

Truck looks great but why doesn't he paint it?

Sealed is even better for power handling- the air trapped inside the box acts as a spring making it harder to damage it mechanically; thermally, it would be really hard to cook that sub unless the signal was really clipped, but it sound like crap and you would turn it down. You'll be fine.

Shouldn't be a problem. Listen for stress or odd noises from the sub and pay attention if you smell a burning smell which comes from the glue holding the coil in place failing, but it highly unlikely either of those things will happen.

I used to love Lords of Acid and those BPM cd's, I don't remember any of the other band names. In retrospect I'm not sure why I thought they were good.

Looks awesome! I was at my local shop and one of the installers gave me a demo of his Rockford truck. It was only 4 15"s on 2 T-2500s and it literally took my breath away and my left ear hurt for 3 days. I don't think I want to be in your shop's truck on full tilt.

Welcome, this is the best site on the net that I've found for car audio. Great, great bunch of guys here and they know their stuff!

That's not a large budget! I think I'd go with the GT2125. I know it's AB and not D, but 600 watts isn't all that much. You could probably do the big 3 for pretty cheap and would help with the electrical. Check the classifieds, you might find something there for cheap.

Great car! Their factory ground wiring is total crap, you will need to do the big 3 for either set up. If you don't care about having a spare tire I would get a 2nd battery for option 2. Unless you know you prefer the characteristics of a sealed enclosure I would definitely recommend option 1 over option 2, less weight and expense and I'm not sure how you'd fit 3 12"s across in the trunk.

Thanks man!! I really appreciate it. I know I wish I found this forum a while ago too! Can you give me links or the model names, so I can look them up more in depth? This is what I bought and am happy with http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC2I/AudioControl-LC2i.html?tp=2001 Unfortunately they tend to hype their products. They are still great quality, but their analog EQs (which this ISN"T) are getting out dated and they can be pricey. Passive LOCs are cheaper than I thought with most being less than $20. I wouldn't necessarily buy from Crutchfield unless their price was competitive, but they do provide good info and have awesome customer service. Most of the guys on this forum have upgraded HUs and don't need LOCs, but you might want to make a new thread.

Holy crap, he crapped himself!!!!! I started to get real nervous with the big boy weights- down right scary.

Those are better quality amps, but he's not doubling the power and probably wouldn't hear the difference.

Not a dumb question at all, many factory radios have processors, some cut bass at higher volumes, I didn't know what was wrong at first, I just knew it wasn't right. I think a decent 4 channel passive was $40, the Audio Control unit was $100 and it has more flexibility. I hope some others chime in here, my advice would be to do a good active one in case you're not happy with the passive. Audio Control is still made here in the US, another plus in my book, amazing customer service, pride of ownership, etc. Good luck, I wish I'd found this forum before I bought anything.

The passive crossover that comes with the comps will high pass the tweeters and low pass the mids. You usually use your head unit or amp to high pass the mids so they don't play frequencies below ~80 hertz. (depends on the mid) Ok, then I should use the hipass filter. I just wasn't sure if the crossover box would do that for the midbass. Yes, components can't handle really low notes, that's why you have subs. I kept my factory HU but wasn't happy with the passive Line Out Converter (LOC) and bought an active one for about $100 and am very happy with it. I mostly understand what is passive and active when it comes too speakers, but not sure with that LOC. What is the difference and how do you use it? Passive LOCs take the relatively high powered signal from your HUs speaker wires and converts them into a lower powered signal for your amp. Active LOCs use electronic do-dads, not resistors and such-forth to convert the signal. Many are happy with the passive, I wasn't. I get more flexibility from my Audio Control LC2i.

Yes, components can't handle really low notes, that's why you have subs. I kept my factory HU but wasn't happy with the passive Line Out Converter (LOC) and bought an active one for about $100 and am very happy with it.

I still use the spring form pans my mother got as a wedding gift, the copper bottom Revere-Ware pans I got from my wedding 19 years ago, and have gone through dozens and dozens of cheap non-stick frying pans from Wal*Mart. One quality purchase can be worth a life time, or two.

Baby girls are sooo much fun, that changes when they become teenagers.