drwang84

Hi Everyone, I originally thought there was a problem with the subwoofer in my Expedition so I got an 8" RE re subwoofer on ebay to replace the oem. And this 8" RE8 is the single voice coil version, made back when Scott was in charge =). When I swapped the drivers, unfortunately I found out that it was the amp that was the problem. I opened the amp up and took some pictures of the guts. I didn't see any physical damage. Although I did find a piece of small plastic loose, but the weird thing is that it didn't look like it came from inside the amp. Here are the pics: Anyways, back on topic,... will there ever be an 8" driver. I understand they don't market or sell very easily. But hey, maybe 8" drivers will make a comeback one day in stealth installs or something.

Haha no offense taken. It's my dad's SUV and this is supposed to be the Mach 1 PREMIUM sound upgrade. Talk about rip-off. And get this, I called up Ford to order a replacement and they are charging $150 for this amp. Called the junkyard too and they are selling for $148. Luckily I found someone on craigslist that will sell it to me for $30. Otherwise I could get a line-out converter and use a footprint aftermarket amp. But since I do want to keep the SUV stock looking, since we take out the back seats to use for hauling. I'll take some pics when it's gone I guess haha. Also, I've thought about upgrading to a beefy 8" sub however there it couldn't be done with the stock enclosure since the mounting depth was 2".

I'm thinking about getting an Assasin if it meets these requirements for fitting into the stock subwoofer enclosure in a Ford Expedition: And the spec requirements are: # 8" 4-ohm subwoofer # top-mount depth: 3-3/4" (most important)

Do you know what mounting depth of your 8" AA Assasins are? I'd recommend Arc audio amps. The new line-up is sexay.

I wish the Ascendant Audio Assassin 8" would fit... such a sexay woofer for only $99 lol.

My Dad's Ford Expo's Mach Audio subwoofer stopped working. I will be removing the stock 8" subwoofer and need some help finding a suitable replacement for the stock enclosure. The only sub I've found so far that meets the requirements is the MTX Thunder4500 8" : http://www.crutchfield.com/S-BPWdxhzxcW8/c...;i=236T4508#Tab And the spec requirements are: # 8" 4-ohm subwoofer # power range: 80-100 watts RMS (b/c stock amp is rated ~85rms) # sensitivity: 86.6 dB # top-mount depth: 3-3/4" (most important) THANKS!

The first punch might work but the second's mounting depth won't fit. Thanks for the input.

Found another option with this kicker comp 8" that might work: http://www.garinet.com/cgi-bin/gkwebstore_...&LANGUAGE=e

I was driving to San Francisco today listening to music in the car not all that loud and about 3/4 of the trip I noticed that the brakes started to respond slower. For example, I'd press down the brakes 1/3 of the way down and it won't respond until I press halfway down until the brakes even start working. By the time I arrived in the city, I popped the hood and I noticed that the wires were coming loose from the fuse holder. What's even worse was that the wire was in contact with something metal and I saw some burn marks with something black that melted as well, probably plastic. Anyways, I made it safely, but it turns out I didn't do a great job with the wiring. Although it's weird, because whenever I screw in the 1/0gauge into the anl fuse holder with a hex screwdriver, it always seems to be a bit loose because the hex screwdriver tends to loose grip when the screw gets tighter. All that bass shaking my car didn't help either. Anyways, I'm going to get the car serviced and hope that there hasn't been too much damage done. Ps. I'd appreciate tips on getting the wire and fuse holder fastened on more safely. Thanks.

I finally got my car back. Here is the before the horrible incident pic:All i did last time was ziptie it down,... This is the part that the loose pos wire came into contact with: Note this is the new replacement part; This is what I have to work with. Any ideas on where to mount? I had a tough time finding a place to bolt the fuse holder down with nut and bolt.

Wow man, you hit the nail right on. The service adviser told me those were the exact things that had to be replaced, the cylinder and flushing the brake fluid. The bill was estimated for around $600, ... ouch. Anyways, I'm hoping to pick up my car tomorrow. I'm really lucky it didn't start an electrical fire. Seems like the zipties wheren't enough. I'm going to need to bolt it down like you guys recommended.

I dropped off the mustang at a ford service department today to have it fixed. When I get it back, I'll post some pics of the damage(burn marks) if they are still there and some pics of the engine bay so I can get some tips/advice from you guys on how to properly secure the power wire and fuseholder. Thanks.

Where can I bolt down the fuse holder? I usually have it laying on top of something. I'll go out to Home depot and see if I can fit the correct allen wrench size. Thanks.

For the big 3 wire upgrade, what fuse size should I be getting?

I have a 12" BTL with pole chamfer and my Memphis MCD2500 amp is coming in soon. I want to get everything ready so when the amp arrives I can install it right away. This is my mustang 2004 stock electrical: 130-amp. heavy-duty alternator 540 CCA heavy-duty battery Battery amp hours (58Ah) Battery-rundown protection I will be doing the big 3 wire upgrade with 1/0 gauge wire from batt to alt to ground. Besides that, what else should I invest in? I'm trying to keep it as budget as possible. Thanks. PS> This is my daily driver.

Firstly, sorry for the noob questions but that's how all of us learn right? =) How did you run it actively? The crossovers that came with the contours only allow passive. What crossovers are you using? And how is it that you can run 100w to mids and 50s to tweets? I take it you are running one amp to the tweets and another to the mids? Or is it a 4-channel amp, but in that case how would you allocate a certain amount of power to each speaker... I'm confused lol I'm running an alpine 9813 actively . It has a three way crossover built into it. Passive crossovers are in a drawer in the garage A two channel on the mids , seperate two channel on the tweets. Ah interesting, so you're using the deck as the crossover. I have a Pioneer Premier DEH-P780MP but no idea if it has that capability of yours. I can't wait to install mine. But I'm going to get some serious "peel and seal" so I can do it right and cost effectively lol.

I'm thinking about upgrading my 5.25" JL VR coaxials to Rainbow CS230 Contour 2-way Component Speaker System 5.25 used for $160. Is this a decent deal?

I have an Xpress Capacitor(new) I'm trying to install and it's not quite working. I charged it correctly but when I measure it with a voltmeter, it only measures 3.5V I tried to install it anyways, hoping that it will charge the rest by itself. So I hooked it up right next to the amp. The digital readout doesn't display. I followed the instructions and it doesn't work. I asked a friend and he said I should try hooking up a remote wire to the cap. Any ideas?

Ahh that makes sense! Where can I get a bi-ampable crossover for the rainbows? I wonder if they sell crossovers by themselves.

Can someone answer my crosser question please? I'm curious...

Firstly, sorry for the noob questions but that's how all of us learn right? =) How did you run it actively? The crossovers that came with the contours only allow passive. What crossovers are you using? And how is it that you can run 100w to mids and 50s to tweets? I take it you are running one amp to the tweets and another to the mids? Or is it a 4-channel amp, but in that case how would you allocate a certain amount of power to each speaker... I'm confused lol

Wow that's beautiful! I love the way you installed the tweets. How is the imaging on those? I don't suppose you have a build log, do you? =) For the tweets I was going to install it in the sail panels because it seems easier to do. Plus if I mess up, I can always just buy another sail panel.

Do you have pictures? I'm curious what your install looks like. How much did you pay for your Contours and how long ago did you get them?

Sweet the deal is closed. I got the Contours for $160. How I have to find time to install and then look around for an amp. Tweets should wow me as they have everyone else but I might end up upgrading the 5.25" drivers. At least the guy was kind enough to give me his mdf adapter 5.25" to 6.5". You think 120rms to each is a bit overkill for a 80rms rated speaker components? I ever have problems overpowering my subs but to my JL's I'm only sending them 40rms and they are rated at 60rms. This will be my first time installing a set of components so I'll be looking to you guys for guidance. I'll probably just drop them in with my current mtx amp until I get a replacement amp. Will need to cut a hole in my sail panels for the tweets. It's going to be a fun project =P Looks like my JL's are going to be posted for sale real soon.

Perhaps I can just trying to find an excuse to buy something haha. Valid point about the install however I don't want to spend around $100 for someone to fabricate pods for my mustang. I plan on selling the car or passing it down to my brother and I will be taking the car audio with me to my future bmw 3 series which is what I'm saving up for. Plus I heard my friends separates and they are far superior to my coaxials. Actually I think the JL's sound pretty good but I've heard a lot of hype around rainbow speakers and since a guy on craigslist is selling them for a decent price, I figure I'd give it a try. I have been told that the Contours in 6.5" form sound better than some JL Xr's and sounded better than CDT CL61's. The Xr's are higher than Vr bytheway. Plus the Contours incorporated the infamous CAL25 tweets, for that price nowadays I wouldn't be able to buy the tweeters alone. You would be quite hard pressed to find a better performer within that range or even 50% higher. Maybe I'm just trying to justify the purchase.