drwang84

Haha no offense taken. It's my dad's SUV and this is supposed to be the Mach 1 PREMIUM sound upgrade. Talk about rip-off. And get this, I called up Ford to order a replacement and they are charging $150 for this amp. Called the junkyard too and they are selling for $148. Luckily I found someone on craigslist that will sell it to me for $30. Otherwise I could get a line-out converter and use a footprint aftermarket amp. But since I do want to keep the SUV stock looking, since we take out the back seats to use for hauling. I'll take some pics when it's gone I guess haha. Also, I've thought about upgrading to a beefy 8" sub however there it couldn't be done with the stock enclosure since the mounting depth was 2".

Hi Everyone, I originally thought there was a problem with the subwoofer in my Expedition so I got an 8" RE re subwoofer on ebay to replace the oem. And this 8" RE8 is the single voice coil version, made back when Scott was in charge =). When I swapped the drivers, unfortunately I found out that it was the amp that was the problem. I opened the amp up and took some pictures of the guts. I didn't see any physical damage. Although I did find a piece of small plastic loose, but the weird thing is that it didn't look like it came from inside the amp. Here are the pics: Anyways, back on topic,... will there ever be an 8" driver. I understand they don't market or sell very easily. But hey, maybe 8" drivers will make a comeback one day in stealth installs or something.

I'm thinking about getting an Assasin if it meets these requirements for fitting into the stock subwoofer enclosure in a Ford Expedition: And the spec requirements are: # 8" 4-ohm subwoofer # top-mount depth: 3-3/4" (most important)

Do you know what mounting depth of your 8" AA Assasins are? I'd recommend Arc audio amps. The new line-up is sexay.

I wish the Ascendant Audio Assassin 8" would fit... such a sexay woofer for only $99 lol.

The first punch might work but the second's mounting depth won't fit. Thanks for the input.

Found another option with this kicker comp 8" that might work: http://www.garinet.com/cgi-bin/gkwebstore_...&LANGUAGE=e

My Dad's Ford Expo's Mach Audio subwoofer stopped working. I will be removing the stock 8" subwoofer and need some help finding a suitable replacement for the stock enclosure. The only sub I've found so far that meets the requirements is the MTX Thunder4500 8" : http://www.crutchfield.com/S-BPWdxhzxcW8/c...;i=236T4508#Tab And the spec requirements are: # 8" 4-ohm subwoofer # power range: 80-100 watts RMS (b/c stock amp is rated ~85rms) # sensitivity: 86.6 dB # top-mount depth: 3-3/4" (most important) THANKS!

I finally got my car back. Here is the before the horrible incident pic:All i did last time was ziptie it down,... This is the part that the loose pos wire came into contact with: Note this is the new replacement part; This is what I have to work with. Any ideas on where to mount? I had a tough time finding a place to bolt the fuse holder down with nut and bolt.

Wow man, you hit the nail right on. The service adviser told me those were the exact things that had to be replaced, the cylinder and flushing the brake fluid. The bill was estimated for around $600, ... ouch. Anyways, I'm hoping to pick up my car tomorrow. I'm really lucky it didn't start an electrical fire. Seems like the zipties wheren't enough. I'm going to need to bolt it down like you guys recommended.

I dropped off the mustang at a ford service department today to have it fixed. When I get it back, I'll post some pics of the damage(burn marks) if they are still there and some pics of the engine bay so I can get some tips/advice from you guys on how to properly secure the power wire and fuseholder. Thanks.

Where can I bolt down the fuse holder? I usually have it laying on top of something. I'll go out to Home depot and see if I can fit the correct allen wrench size. Thanks.

I was driving to San Francisco today listening to music in the car not all that loud and about 3/4 of the trip I noticed that the brakes started to respond slower. For example, I'd press down the brakes 1/3 of the way down and it won't respond until I press halfway down until the brakes even start working. By the time I arrived in the city, I popped the hood and I noticed that the wires were coming loose from the fuse holder. What's even worse was that the wire was in contact with something metal and I saw some burn marks with something black that melted as well, probably plastic. Anyways, I made it safely, but it turns out I didn't do a great job with the wiring. Although it's weird, because whenever I screw in the 1/0gauge into the anl fuse holder with a hex screwdriver, it always seems to be a bit loose because the hex screwdriver tends to loose grip when the screw gets tighter. All that bass shaking my car didn't help either. Anyways, I'm going to get the car serviced and hope that there hasn't been too much damage done. Ps. I'd appreciate tips on getting the wire and fuse holder fastened on more safely. Thanks.

For the big 3 wire upgrade, what fuse size should I be getting?

I have a 12" BTL with pole chamfer and my Memphis MCD2500 amp is coming in soon. I want to get everything ready so when the amp arrives I can install it right away. This is my mustang 2004 stock electrical: 130-amp. heavy-duty alternator 540 CCA heavy-duty battery Battery amp hours (58Ah) Battery-rundown protection I will be doing the big 3 wire upgrade with 1/0 gauge wire from batt to alt to ground. Besides that, what else should I invest in? I'm trying to keep it as budget as possible. Thanks. PS> This is my daily driver.